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Synthetic Oil [merged]

Posted by DrunkenMime249, Jul 18, 2002

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  1. immortalmcf

    immortalmcf Proven Member

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    nicely said :thumb:
     
  2. gst96spyderman

    gst96spyderman Proven Member

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    atlanta, Georgia
    The high zinc levels wont apply if you are changing the oil @ 50 milesthough...
     

    630  0

    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    manual · 2G DSM
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  3. boost97gst

    boost97gst Proven Member

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    Joined Apr 2, 2012
    st jacob, Illinois
    Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy
    Member gprix1 posted this a few hours ago in the "ofh prted 100psi" thread. Credit to him for bringing it to my attention again. Here ya go wes and anyone else who has 30 mins to spend.
    Now also keep in mind that racing and DD are vastly different things. Racing is near constant heavy load, high rpm use. Racing is NOT a 3rd gear pull every now and then, ok? I think that needs to be clarified. After reading this i have completely decided against 15/40 for MY application. A 5w40 synth will be perfect, especially due to the cold temps in the winter where i live. A 5w30 might be even better but i like my oil pressure at warm idle just as it is. Going to a 30 would lower it obviously
     
  4. Alphashadow

    Alphashadow Proven Member

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    Phoenix, Maryland
    Please excuse my ignorance, but what, why, and how does Zinc help the oil/lubrication of the engine?

    I understand Zinc is used to coat our drilled/slotted rotors, in order to prevent corrosion. The zinc reacts to corrosion providing a protective barrier against the rust of carbon based steel and iron.
     
  5. finesse49ers

    finesse49ers Proven Member

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    Joined Jun 9, 2009
    Queens, New York
    Read this: http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf
     

    1K  0

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 2G DSM
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  6. boost97gst

    boost97gst Proven Member

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    st jacob, Illinois
    FP is saying that "race temp" for oil is considered 200F??? Im i missing something cause almost every car runs at over 200F which means the oil is around the same. Race conditions IMO, would be more along the lines of 300F and up.

    copied from the link: Race engines that operate with oil temps above 200F should
    run 20w-50 weight racing oil.

    I think the key word here is "race engines". Under "racing" conditions. Racing being alot of high load, high throttle and minimal cooling time. The guy with a 600whp street dsm that does an occasional 1st through 3rd pull is not under "race conditions" thus i dont believe 20w50 is at all necessary. Its only good at causing excess wear on start up due to the thick ass oil.

    After reading the link i posted i think most would agree. Maybe BOB is full of shit LOL, doesnt seem like it at all though. Take from it what you will but it has changed my views.

    Oh and i believe page 7 of that article has something to say about ZDDP levels and how too much can actually be BAD.
     
  7. mikemustbebored

    mikemustbebored Proven Member

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    SD, California
    Hopefully nobody here uses mobile1 extended... Claims that protection is guaranteed up to 15k... I can't think of any oil filter that protects up to that mileage... Scary... Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ Extended Performance

    I once used it on my old car when I couldn't find regular mobile1 but changed it out after ~5k
     
  8. TSIfreek

    TSIfreek Proven Member

    1,676
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    Joined Dec 14, 2003
    cary, Illinois
    It is necessary to keep the oil pump happy at high RPM. I have tested it and seen for myself if its a summer drag car or even street car with any mods over 350 hp in a 4 cyl a heavy oil is best. Now if its an all season car that sees 20* cold starts then yea use a 5/40 syn. Thin oils are for MPG and super cold starts. Ask any big dsm racer what he uses.. Its kind of funny they all use basicly the samething. Also to add ZDDP is an extreme pressure additive it is a great additive but it will eat up catalatic converters for that sake it is bad but for a racer we want as much as we can get.
     
    TSIfreek

    2K  0

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    11.27 @ 127 · 1G DSM
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  9. boost97gst

    boost97gst Proven Member

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    st jacob, Illinois
    So let me get this right: Youre saying that the heavier oil eg. 15/40 would be better than 5/40 in a high horsepower application? I know this is what i have been told over and over too but for no real reason. If they are all both the same at operating temp then why do i need thicker oil at start up?
    Im not patronizing you at all. I just stumbled upon this article thanks to another member and felt enlightened after reading it(LOL). But please explain. Is a 15/40 thicker at OPERATING temps than a 5/40? That is the ultimate question.
     
  10. ulitka

    ulitka Proven Member

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    Raleigh, North Carolina
    Amsoil Signature series engine oils offers up to 25K miles or once a year oil changes, more details here:
    AMSOIL SAE 10W-30 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil

    Of course that would not appy for our turbo engines, but for a daily driver with high efficiency amsoil oil and air filters, the draining interval could be extended up to 15K miles or once a year. Assuming engine is in a healthy state and does not run on E85.

    I use Amsoil dominator 15W50 engine oil and change it twice a year regardless of mileage because I run E85 gas.
    AMSOIL DOMINATOR® 15W-50 Racing Oil
     

    1K  0

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    16.665 @ 93.120 · 2G DSM
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  11. red_devil

    red_devil Proven Member

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    Richmond, Virginia
    You need thinner oil at start up. 15w40 means that the oil flows like a 15 weight at cold conditions, then at full operating temperature it flows like a 40 weight. For most cars on this site running a 20w50 makes no sense as its just causing high oil prrssurre, improper flow at cold start up and and bad mpg. For those that say you need thicker oil due to different tolerances and high rpm, that's fine but if you drive the car on the streets and have to do cold start ups you still need to consider the "winter" grade that you run.
    To say all oils with _w40 are the same weight at operating is correct in a sense but keep in mind each have different additives in them and in some cases those additives are used to increase or decrease the oils advertised weight.
     

    2K  9

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 2G DSM
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  12. boost97gst

    boost97gst Proven Member

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    st jacob, Illinois
    ^^^^ exactly my point. I know that ALL 40w(or 20,30,50W) are not exactly the same at op temps, obviously. But i would like to hear from someone who can tell me why anyone would want thick oil on start up. Even on a high horsepower application. I cant seem to understand it and the data seems to support my thoughts. Ive been running 15 40 rotella for 2k miles because its very popular on the forums, and im switching to t6 5 40. Im doing the switch tomorrow or friday. Ill post back if i notice a difference in cold idle pressure and hot idle pressure. It should be lower on cold starts(BUUUUT, actually that will increase the lubrication). We shall see
     
  13. ulitka

    ulitka Proven Member

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    Joined Apr 9, 2009
    Raleigh, North Carolina

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    16.665 @ 93.120 · 2G DSM
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  14. Dub04

    Dub04 Probationary Member

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    Joined Feb 28, 2013
    Luck, Wisconsin
    97 Eclipse 420a. Didn't leak a single drop of oil, ever. Switched to Valvoline Full Synthetic 10W-30 and now I have the worst leak ever. #### Synthetic.
     
  15. xxNocturnalxx

    xxNocturnalxx Proven Member

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    Tacomptan, Washington
    I base my new oil choice off of smell, even if I know that the oil is good I always give it a quick wiff just to make sure it's quality full syntheticLOL
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2013

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    89 Mitsubishi Mirage
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  16. ninja07

    ninja07 Proven Member

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    Joined Dec 7, 2009
    antioch, Tennessee
    Anybody have any issues w/ oil filter coming loose after 1000 miles or so? Any preferences in filter brands, or just buy Mitsubishi OEM?
     

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    1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 2G DSM
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  17. xxNocturnalxx

    xxNocturnalxx Proven Member

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    I usually go with K&N gold, I think you just need to give it a bit more hand strength honestly. The K&N also has a hole pre drilled so you can safety wire it if you're worried about it coming off.
     

    Street Build 3K  5

    89 Mitsubishi Mirage
    11.746 @ 127.38 · 4G63t Swapped

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    89 Colt
    manual · 4G63t Swapped
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