Synthetic Oil [merged]

[DrunkenMime249]

All synthetic oil threads are merged here.i'm trying to buy a 1g dsm turbo awd (as i'm sure most of you know by now from my recent ramblings in other threads). Most of the ones i've been looking at are bone stock for the most part except repairs and i have a feeling all are running on regular oil.

my question is when i finally buy one should i run regular, full sythetic, or somwhere in between (i am planning on running full synthetic).

also, if the car is running regular and i want to switch to full synthetic, i've heard it can be damaging to switch all at once. or is that just a fable? it makes sense and i was planning on slowly uprading the oil quality everytime i changed it until it was running full synthetic. is that the wrong thing to do?

 

[Seouljer]

Hello all.
I finaly have my first dsm up and running and its going great!!! Motor has a fresh rebuild on it. I was wondering when it would be safe to switch to a full synthetic motor oil. Initial startup and the first 500 miles were run on brad penn break in oil. I have since put another 1200 miles on the motor with regular brad penn. I want to switch to amsoil since its easier to get in my area than rhe brad penn. Is it safe to switch now?

Thanks
Seouljer

 

[daren_p]

Have you been babying it or did you break it in more aggressively? Have you checked compression at all to see if your compression has reached its peak & is staying there? Typically, if you were aggressive with your break in miles you should be fine to make the switch now.

 

[Seouljer]

I have been driving the car a little aggresive. Im in the boost a lot and I get into the throttle some but havent been flat footing it a lot. I checked the compression after the first 500 and it was 160 across the board with no fuel. I guess I better check it again to see if its holding.

 

[Total Eclipse]

Supposadly, switching to a conv/synthetic mix first, then to full synthetic will ease the change over. I have not done this myself, as full synthetic is all I use, but everyone I know that has changed has had great results, so it should help.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

You only have 1700 miles on the engine. Just switch to full synthetic. You won't have any issues.

 

[DSM1G90]

As what daren mentions: If you're all broke in properly, go ahead and make the complete switch - not going to hurt the motor any.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

As what daren mentions: If you're all broke in properly, go ahead and make the complete switch - not going to hurt the motor any.

At 1700 miles he is way past breaking in.

 

[paularenss]

im in the same boat but i still only have 100 miles on it so it will be awhile for me to switch over

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

im in the same boat but i still only have 100 miles on it so it will be awhile for me to switch over

If your still on the oil you started up on you should change now. You already through pretty much most of your break in. At 500 switch to full synthetic and do normal changes thereon.

 

[red_devil]

The issue with running synthetic oil before the engine has broken in is more to do with the price than the lubrication. It just makes sense to use a cheaper oil under brake-in due to you changing it a few times within a couple of thousands miles.

 

[DSM1G90]

At 1700 miles he is way past breaking in.

In a general term ... IF done properly.

For I've seen motors with this many miles still not completely broke in-depends on the build and who did the build.

If the OP did well, then he's ready for synth.

Some oil makers do make special break-in oils, but cheap straight weight 30w oils are good for break ins since it's coming out very quickly.

 

[Edogg6565]

You are fine to switch. Just switched my talon to synthetic with 1200 miles on the motor

 

[yayocc393]

Good to switch but make sure you completely drain the old stuff out, as in remove all non-synthetic out from the pan before switching

 

[red_devil]

Please don't give advise based on oil myths. It's good to run some oil through while its draining on a newly broke in engine to remove any deposits.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Please don't give advise based on oil myths. It's good to run some oil through while its draining on a newly broke in engine to remove any deposits.

Correct.

 

[gst96spyderman]

Switch to full synthetic, then replace normally. Break in is complete and 160 psi across the board is a blessing.

 

[harrison_gst]

i used full synthetic from the start

 

[gst96spyderman]

Why?

 

[kchaazz]

I used AMSOIL 30W synthetic break in oil on mine, which is full synthetic, but designed specifically for break in and has additives to facilitate ring seating, and I used the "Motoman" break in method, which Im sure most are familiar with. After just 50 miles on the clock, I dropped the oil to swap for AMSOIL Dominator 10w- 30, and man was that shite nasty! Using full synthetic right away isnt the greatest thing, as it can prevent the rings from properly seating, but then again, look at the new cars, Evos for example, which came with Mobil 1synthetic from the factory. Would it prevent the rings from fully seating? Maybe, but more than likely, it would just cause the seating process to take longer. So, is full synthetic a bad idea on a brand new motor? To be honest, I wouldnt do it on my junk, but thats just me.

 

[gst96spyderman]

Thats an unsettled debate. Imo, its a waste though. You're just going to replace it after 50-100 miles...

I dont beleive the rings ever really set. Based off of pulling my 30k mile wiscos out after snapping my timIng belt.

As for the evo's from the factory... Not sure, but I know they put miles on them to make sure they drive...

 

[Seouljer]

Well I think im gonna put another hundred miles or so just to be sure then change over to amsoil signature. Thanks for all the info!!!!

 

[WES_393]

Thats an unsettled debate. Imo, its a waste though. You're just going to replace it after 50-100 miles...

That's the reason most run regular 30w for break in, it's cheap and you won't feel bad for tossing it in a few miles. But I do believe there is some truth to conventional being better for breaking in engines. It's less "slippery" than synthetic so it, in theory, should help the rings seat by allowing more friction. I don't think synthetic will stop break in, but it sure wont make it easier or cheaper.

Also, break-in oil (or at least some break-in additive) is good to use full time due to it's high levels of ZDDP. Bearings (especially journal bearings) can't get enough ZDDP in their diet. That's one reason why oils like Rotella and Brad Penn are so highly regarded: High levels of ZDDP.

 

[boost97gst]

^^ Yea, rotella(either t5 or t6) has around 1300ppm zinc content. Its a very good oil. However im personally switching to t6 5w40 after reading bobistheoilguy(or whatever its called). There is absolutely no reason to run a cold engine with 15w40. Its senseless. Those 10 pages should be read by every member on here. It would put an END to oil debate. It also tells WHY synth is better and HOW it is better.

 

[WES_393]

^ Link to the article?

 

[Alphashadow]

Full Synth.. Switch at any time, just make sure when you do, you have a full flush, meaning, Change oil filter, full drain, full replace. As long as you do it all at once, the remnants of the natural oil would be minimal and the blending would be a non-factor.