Synthetic Oil [merged]

[DrunkenMime249]

All synthetic oil threads are merged here.i'm trying to buy a 1g dsm turbo awd (as i'm sure most of you know by now from my recent ramblings in other threads). Most of the ones i've been looking at are bone stock for the most part except repairs and i have a feeling all are running on regular oil.

my question is when i finally buy one should i run regular, full sythetic, or somwhere in between (i am planning on running full synthetic).

also, if the car is running regular and i want to switch to full synthetic, i've heard it can be damaging to switch all at once. or is that just a fable? it makes sense and i was planning on slowly uprading the oil quality everytime i changed it until it was running full synthetic. is that the wrong thing to do?

 

[red_devil]

If you worry about running synthetic because of leaks (yes it does help clean up sludge) then you really need to look after your car if you are getting that problem.

 

[snox135]

I would like to know what oil was used

My old boss had worked in the oil business for 20 years and has never seen that, unless it was redline or ryoal purple mixed with regular oil, or a grade that wasnt correct for the vehicle.

Sorry, I don't remember the brands, that was about 5 years ago. I do know that both were the correct grade.

But you did just contradict your self by saying "unless it was redline or royal purple mixed with regular oil". In your other post you said "you can change whenever you like and even mix them if you want"

 

[kspharris]

Royal Purple all the way! Side note I had an old Delta 88 when I was 16 or 17 and it leaked oil on a regular basis, so I had to fill it up every now and then. I was far out of town and had to buy some oil I never heard of and poured it in and started the car. I drove down the street a few miles and KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK.......BOOOOOMMMM! There went my engine. I looked and there was this light brown goo all in the top of the head. Lesson learned and who knows if that had anything to do with the motor blowing.

 

[red_devil]

Sorry, I don't remember the brands, that was about 5 years ago. I do know that both were the correct grade.

But you did just contradict your self by saying "unless it was redline or royal purple mixed with regular oil". In your other post you said "you can change whenever you like and even mix them if you want"

Well you see these two synthetics are a little different in that they have a unique polymer structure that enables them to protect better at higher temps and rpms. They are pure synthetics and do not mix with regular oil.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

[greddy_1700]

Hey everyone, So I was just wondering if I would run into any problems switching my car over to synthetic oil at this point in the game. The car is on its stock motor with 212k Km. Would it start leaking through the old seals and create me more headaches that it helps? Any opinions would be great.

 

[bOOst tsi]

IMO you should replace the oil with a non synthetic but sludge protection oil run that for a couple of hundred miles then switch to fully synthetic oil. i did that as soon as i bought my car and no problems here.

 

[clumbles]

I read earlier in this thread someone mentioned engine restorer. Here's my experience with engine restorer and my camaro. 100k mile camaro + engine restorer = spun bearings in cylinder 7 and 8 , and cracked compression ring in cylinder 7, plus after further tear down the head gasket was leaking between cylinder 5 and 7, probably from me driving it for another 3 months with spun bearings and blue smoke. It never ate coolant either till much later after the rod knock. Even then it still wasn't losing coolant very much. I still use the piston and rod as paper weight. As for now I love my 90dsm awd and my 04 srt4. Evo's are still to expensive for me thats where the srt4 came in, along side of the 90dsm(my primary car).

 

[clumbles]

P.S. The camaro is crushed, I carfaxed the vin 2 years after I replaced the motor and sold it. The next owner crushed it a few months ago.

As for synthetic oil and old motors, an enginer builder told me you risk glazing the cylinder walls and increasing your oil consumption. As for bearings they are worn in to a specific friction coefficient and natural noise dampening from the film of the oil. When you switch to syn. your going to have a different friction coefficient and thinner oil film around your bearings increasing mechanical noise(the kind you don't hear).

 

[wret]

increasing mechanical noise(the kind you don't hear).

Ahh, the old silent noise. Kind of like the tree falling in the forest...

 

[97gsx_zeclipse]

I need to get things straight. I am a big fan of full synthetic oil. I have been using Royal Purple for years. But some of my friends have been using non synthetic oil for their turboed cars. They say something like it doesn't leak past the seals? I don't remember what they were saying but it made a lot of sense. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[VergeTSi]

I think its all up to you man if you are willing to pay extra for your oil but i personally found that using royal purple some what solved my lifter tick problem.

 

[ninesixtwo]

Well I would not waste my money breaking a motor in with synthetic. But ask any oil company or car maker, you can break in a motor with synthetic. Most of your high end cars come with synthetic from the factory. It will take longer for the rings to seat but will save a little bit of wear on the bearings.

Many engines come broken-in from the factory

There is no reason for anyone to not switch to synthetic, unless you can't afford the small price premium. We put lubro-moly in all of our customer's cars, regardless of what type of oil was in there before, and the effects can be pretty astonishing. After a year or 2, the inside of the inside of a dino-oil head can go from being a discolored yellow/brown to looking like it just came back from the machine shop. It's too bad we didn't take pictures haha.

 

[Captain D]

Conventional oil begins to burn at 200*F. Synthetic begins to burn at 300*F. If your hot turbo is depending on your engine oil to keep it from self destructing would you rather have oil that burns at 200* or 300*. Synthetic oil is like insurance, it is better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

 

[TSIfreek]

Thats exactly my type of thinking. Good post

 

[Defiant]

It's interesting thinking, but it's mistaken. Conventional oils begin to break down above 250F°. SAE minimum flash point for conventional oils is over 400F°, and flame point is considerably higher than that.
A.T.I.S. FAQ on Motor Oils
If any bearing in your car is running over 250°, you're already in dick city.

Yes, synthetics are much, much better than conventional oils. If you're in the Sahara or the Antarctic, you should be running them. But down here on earth, they're overkill. But then, so are 3000-mile oil changes.

 

[whiteythepimp]

I have never added any oil to my car. I put in Royal Purple 10W30 in March and the dipstick has been on the full mark for the last four months and I drive the car hard. I assume that you all must have high mileage engines to have all of this oil consumption.

How you gunna beat a dsm like that.. No way should you be driving it hard, and not changing you oil let alone running with royal purple... You're suppose to chance it after a full day/night of running it hard... Let alone since March dude! your motor's feeling like this

 

[whiteythepimp]

Well I would not waste my money breaking a motor in with synthetic. But ask any oil company or car maker, you can break in a motor with synthetic. Most of your high end cars come with synthetic from the factory. It will take longer for the rings to seat but will save a little bit of wear on the bearings.

Um i'd do a little more research.. Porsche, Audi, Lambo, and any other company thats owned by Volkswagon, among a couple of other top name manufacturers all use AGIP at the dealerships and at the Factories in all there motors except the Carrera GT, Turbo Diesel Le Mans motors (Audi), and the Phaeton (VW).. Which use Mobile 1.. I'm sure some of the more elite lambos use Mobile 1 also.. But i'm not referring to the cause I wasn't around them.. I used to work for porshe as a tech and my uncle was part of corporate.. =0) Don't fool yourself.. Just cause BMW may use synthetic, who cares.. They dust the cars with ostrich feathers before they paint um.. And breaking in your motor with Synthetic is better if you plan on staying full synthetic.. It's just better to run your motor with the oil your going to use in it till the motor goes (referring to regular/synthetic/blend).. Otherwise you'll probably wind up changing gaskets alone the way..

 

[wret]

Mobile 1 is stock fill for Boxters.

 

[Defiant]

When Mobil 1 is recommended by the manufacturer, it's because they're getting a check from Mobil Oil to do so.
It's good oil. It's got better properties than conventional oils. But manufacturers don't select it for its merits. They select it because they're whores.

 

[meliketoball]

Alright guys, I have an oil leak comming out of my exhaust manifold and for sure it's probably the valve seals and I was wondering, should I just use conventional Castrol GTX oil or Pennzoil "Full Synthetic"? Right now I am running Pennzoil and I top it off say 1/4 a quart every 2 weeks. Yeah, it gets expensive at times but should I be better off with synthetic or conventional? I don't race or whatever but I do have the occasional mountain run.

Let me know guys!

 

[Eclipse X]

Hi, I'm going to do my 1st oil change on my 97 Eclipse GSX recenly bought this month. I was wondering if someone have use Mobil Clean High Mileage 5W-30. I don't know what kind of oil brand in the oil pan or beating this GSX got but its got 126k, automatic, and no leaks..

 

[braceyoself777]

When Mobil 1 is recommended by the manufacturer, it's because they're getting a check from Mobil Oil to do so.
It's good oil. It's got better properties than conventional oils. But manufacturers don't select it for its merits. They select it because they're whores.

+10000

Money talks man.....

 

[toofast82]

this debate could go on forever. Synthetics do show to be better on bearings as far as long term. I have personally run diesel 15w40 in all my dsms with no ill effects. Its cheap compared to synthetic and has to meet high standards. If a semi-truck can run 24 hours long and see more boost than 90% of the dsms. im sure it can handle my talon. Plus diesel oils have a decent content of zinc which is good to have.

 

[Kastigir]

How about a link?...I would like to see this oil test.

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf
Hope that gets you there. Prices of the oils, pictures of the wear. the load on the electric motor, etc.

 

[crimsondragon]

Not this again.
Bob Is The Oil Guy