Synthetic Oil [merged]

[DrunkenMime249]

All synthetic oil threads are merged here.i'm trying to buy a 1g dsm turbo awd (as i'm sure most of you know by now from my recent ramblings in other threads). Most of the ones i've been looking at are bone stock for the most part except repairs and i have a feeling all are running on regular oil.

my question is when i finally buy one should i run regular, full sythetic, or somwhere in between (i am planning on running full synthetic).

also, if the car is running regular and i want to switch to full synthetic, i've heard it can be damaging to switch all at once. or is that just a fable? it makes sense and i was planning on slowly uprading the oil quality everytime i changed it until it was running full synthetic. is that the wrong thing to do?

 

[stb94tsi]

I use chevron delo 15-40w so far its the best ive used and i have my dsm for 4 years from switching oils.My old man works for chevron reserch group on grades of oils and some s**t like that.He told me to try it and its fine it dosent break down as fast as most syntics and dosent burn off that fast excplisy when running higer boost, and helps keeps all the gaskets in tack.i thinking of trying a little lucis oil too i heard thats good s**t to run. try some out, it comes in 1 gallon contaners and its only $7-8 bucks

 

[TSIfreek]

Never use anything in my motor but mobil 1 10/30. The synthetic oil DOESNOT break down like a reagualr oil does on a hot turbo motor. Everybody thinks that heavyer is better but not true.
20/50 is made for Built 500 HP racing engines that see more abuse than we can all afford.
Harely Davidson recomends that it need 20/50 because they are air cooled.

 

[LiquidOC]

These are the oil weights recommended by temperature in my 96 Talon TSi AWD's manual.

 

[stb94tsi]

DELO 15-40W IS MADE FOR TURBO ENGINGS AND WONT BREAK DOWN AS FAST. TRY SOME IM NOT F**KING AROUND. LASTS ABOUT 3X AS LONG BEFORE YOU HAVE TO DO AN OIL CHANGE.

 

[paranoidTSi]

5W-30 and 10W-30 as shown by liquid are the recommended weight, why people continue to go above and beyond I do not understand.

 

[LiquidOC]

also some 20W-40 but seriously, i wouldn't put anything thicker than 10W-30 in my engine.

 

[Mike1992]

ok GUYS THANKS, iM GONNA TRY 10W-30 AND IF ITS STILL BURNING ALOT CAN i SAFELY switch to 20w-40? I beleive my oil consumption is from my worn head

 

[Nerfherder]

Yeah, your valve guides are most likely worn out. Try adding some Lucas stabilizer to your oil. The 40W oil honestly won't make much difference. If you're burning 30W, you're going to burn 40W.

 

[Mike1992]

Valve guides or valve seals? I went and picked up some Mobile 1 Synthetic Blend high mileage 10w-30. Maybe next I'll get some lucas or restore and see if that helps. Geese by 3000 miles I'll have already did an oil change, but I guess the filter needs it still.

 

[out there]

i opted for 15w40 because it was the heaviest synthetic that walmart had when i did my last change (coincidentally, this is the first time i've used anything thicker than 5w30). since changing, i've noticed nothing different in spooling or cold night start-ups. as a definite plus, i no longer shoot oil out the dipstick.
when my friend gets done building his ls/vtec that will be revving to 8k+, i believe we'll be using 15w40 or heavier because his engine will not be street-friendly because it will need to rev so much to do anything... and probably won't run on pump gas

 

[stb94tsi]

15-40W DELO IS EXCLLENT IT MADE FOR HEAVY DUTY DESILS TRUCKS. IT CHEEP AND THE LIFE IS VERY LONG, DONT WASTE YOUR MONY ON HIGH MILAGE OILS OR SYNTICS DELO DOES THE EXZACT SAME THING IF NOT BETTER,TRY SOME!!!!!!

 

[ICE_T]

I put Motul 5W40 100% syntec

with that oil, my lifters are quiet.

but for a gallon, the price is around 50$can, so 35$us

 

[out there]

15-40W DELO IS EXCLLENT IT MADE FOR HEAVY DUTY DESILS TRUCKS. IT CHEEP AND THE LIFE IS VERY LONG, DONT WASTE YOUR MONY ON HIGH MILAGE OILS OR SYNTICS DELO DOES THE EXZACT SAME THING IF NOT BETTER,TRY SOME!!!!!!

hmm... his/her spelling, grammar, and all caps makes me want to sell my car and buy a horse...

 

[johnk]

Wow got the old 14b off and I know where all my boost was going now. The houseing was cracked half way across the back of the snail shell on the exhaust side and then between the exhaust to mani-port over through the wastgate. And the turbine had about a 1/4 inch of up-down play in it and made a nice squishy noise doing it so a definite dead turbo.

I switched to mobile 1 syn when I refilled the oil. Now my dummy light comes on for my whole drive home but there's
-no leaks
-good reading on the dipstick (just above top tick mark)
-15-25 psi with an idle between 750 and 1k (it goes up when the motor gets hot dunno why)
-50-75 psi driving (2-3k rpm)

On my drive home from work tonight the dummy light was comeing on at idle but only after the car had warmed up. Should I be worried about this is it normal when you switch to synthetic oil? The sensor was replaced last year so I doubt it's bad. And recommendations or similar experiences you guys have had?

Also the new turbo sound is so sweet and comes on faster than the busted one
And what they say about the 1G manifolds is true mine has a crack 3/4 of the way down the bottom of the runner 2

 

[Sotarts]

I've been using synthetic oil for a while. Only much later I've gotten the 'oil low' light, usually at idle or while slowing down while out of gear. It's damn annoying. I'm not leaking oil, oil is not low, oil pressure is fine. This happens after fresh oil change as well. I'm thinking oil pump is going out, but my car has 84,000 miles. This seems to happen more often after I've driven the car hard or on the highway at high speeds. Other than that, there are NO other problems at all with the engine.

Maybe synthetic oil is too fluidy?

 

[Defiant]

Replace the sender. It's tired.

 

[johnk]

Will do thanks for the replies

 

[johnk]

Update: The dummy light stopped comeing on at all. Weird guess it needed time to break-in for synthetic Sounds dumb but I don't know a better answer. Oh well I'll still be replaceing the sensor this weekend anyway since I got one now.

 

[Defiant]

Hm. Check the connector for tightness.

 

[johnk]

OK replaced the dummy sensor there was a rivet holding the connector on the end of the plastic part. Oil started leaking out of it at kind of a scary rate so you can bet it had a lot to do with the sensor not reporting correctly. New sensor in works like new.

 

[got_no_sol]

????

 

[aleccolin]

yes

 

[sexehtopper]

^^^^

 

[ProjectTalon130]

I agree, Yes is the answer but I will add to this b/c I'm assuming an explanation is warranted. It truely depends what your use for the car is...if you just drive it daily, don't beat on it...use whatever, whatever being any good regular or synthetic...if you beat on it..make sure to use a 10-30 or higher synthetic since synthetics generally run thinner than regular petro oils. They have no impurities and are tested to last longer drain intervals than normal /regular oils b/c of the properties they consist of that break down much slower from heat /friction. If your religious in changing your oil like i am , every 3,00 or sooner...you can use conventional oil....if not and you tend to put it off....go with synthetic and a oil filter meant to last as long too like the fram X2 or Mobil 1 or Hastings, etc. I use Amsoil, Castrol Syntec and occasionally Valvoline...but i really want to try some Royal purple or VP Racing. We'll see, very $$$ though. Hope this helps in your decision....if I were to use conventional i would likely stick with Castrol GTX and only that.

 

[burldude]

I put Royal Purple in my motor and watched my oil pressure drop to 15 psi at idle . I think that royal purple is all hype and not good at all . Mobil 1 has been nothing but good for me . If you get any heat to Royal purple its viscosity turns to water or less.