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1G Swerving at WOT!!

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boostdawd

Supporting Member
1,430
320
Apr 6, 2010
phoenix, Arizona
Got a flat tire at 2am last night. My home was only about 7 miles away so I babysit the car home. Never exceeding 20mph to prevent damage, to my wheels. I know the tire was going to be no good anymore. Anyways, I got a new tire same size as others 235/45/17 and drives well.

I'm running into issues when I do wot pulls. This thing feels like a boat in the ocean. It swerves like crazy and jerks the wheel out of my hand to the right. Before I lift my car and check for loose/damaged parts what would u guys suspect as the culprit?
 
Are the lugs tight?
 
Yup. All lugs are tight and torqued. This is scary LOL. I almost felt like those guys at the track who get close to hitting the side of the track due to all that torque. On a side note. While I replaced the tire I also replaced my driveshaft and carrier bearings as the older ones were shot and hitting my undercarriage. I also have a welded center diff which I've grown to hate on a daily.
 
Update. I was missing some bolts for the driver side cv axle. One of them broke in the block and the other one was loose. Tightened it back up and went for a ride. Car is still swerving.

While I was down there I did notice a lot of power steering fluid residue. Source of leak is the steering rack. I get a lot of play in my steering wheel.

Could the issue be my rack and pinion? Car is about to hit 195k and I believe the steering rack is original.
 
Is there any play in steering wheel before it gets tight or starts to move the front wheels? If the wheels don't start turning when you move the steering wheel then it can be the inner tie rod,outter tie rods or the whole rack. With that mileage it is very possible the whole rack is bad. Where is the residue at on the rack? If it's at the inner tie rod boots then I would say rack is shot.
 
U think driving it with a flat tire may have damaged my cv axle? It was really lose due to missing the bolts that go to the block to support the axle. There's no rips or tears and this axle is about 3 months old. There is a slight vibration at cruise now but I believe it may be my driveshaft. I'm goin to take it in to an alignment shop and see what's goin on.
 
I do front end alignments for a living,and the only things that cause a car to pull on acceleration are lower control arm bushings and bad motor mount.

CV axle will cause a bad vibration
A bad tire or mounted backwards tire will cause "radial pull" but will pull all the time.
 
Pulling to the right Hard and jerking wheel out of your hand sounds like FWD torque steer but, I know it's AWD. Center diff is welded correct? I know if you have lsd if one tire turns more than the other for a period of time it will f up the diff. There is a warning sticker on my 93 on The inside of the drivers door jam that states do not turn a single wheel while the others are making contact due to damaging the limited slip differential
 
The suspension is due for a rebuild. Almost 195k I think it's time. I hate having down time on it though LOL. @Gottiboy will a bad rack and pinion that has more play then normal on a steering wheel cause this as well?
No sir. That will cause lots of play in steering wheel. And so will bad inner and outer tie rod ends.
But does not cause it to pull under acceleration.
 
So, I had this issue after I replaced my trans with my spare and welded diff. Trick was, it only did it when I didn't have the t-case or DS in, So in fwd mode it was all over the place on a hard pull. All this stopped when I put the awd parts back in.

Id start verifying if your t-case isn't roasted. What tire went flat?
 
The driver front. I've lifted my car and found a lot of play on both control arms. Ball joints are shot. The bushings on the control arms allow play if I pry on then with a bar. I'm not too experienced with suspension. Is there supposed to be some play on the bushings?
 
The driver front. I've lifted my car and found a lot of play on both control arms. Ball joints are shot. The bushings on the control arms allow play if I pry on then with a bar. I'm not too experienced with suspension. Is there supposed to be some play on the bushings?
cheap fix. just replace the lower control arms. they come with ball joints.
 
i beleve you have found your problem sir.

I believe I may have also. What would u guys recommend. Should I replace both control arms as a set with the bushings and ball joint already in for 100-150 pair? Or should I get energy suspension bushings and moog ball joints. I have acess to a press so I'll be doing this myself.
 
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