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Suggestion on how to do deal with problem head

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Tom97GSX

Probationary Member
18
0
Sep 27, 2002
Elizabethtown,
I purchased an already built long block from someone and have only put maybe 6K miles on it with him only having put 3k miles on it. He was in dire need to sell it and I was in dire need of needing one. It is a 1990 6-bolt with JE pistion, Eagle rods, ARP mains, .010" bearings, reground crack that was magnafluxed, web cams 546/547, either web or jun double valve springs with titanium retainers, and stocksized swirl polished valves.

Now with the basis of info. My car lately has been losing a lot of oil onto the ground. I thought it was the oil pan not sealing correctly. So i waited for a new pan that still hasn't made it here yet. Well, during the waiting period, i had to drive the car to work. Well, things started getting worse. Every time the car was under load (boost) it would seem to want to over heat afterwards. It would literally blow the cooland out the thermostat and out the resevior. Then within the last 2 days the car would start missing after a quick burst up to 5k rpm with little boost when i shifted.

So I decided last night to just start tearing it down to see if I could find the other problems. The very first thing i noticed was the head gasket. The assembler must have been an asshat and put a flepro crushed gasket on that thing. Mind you this is a built motor running an 18g for the moment pushing 20psi street and 24psi at the track. So the over heating problem led me to believe it was the head gasked after replacing the thermostat and cap. Another problem i saw was 2 of the spark plug cylinder holes was full of oil, requiring replacement of the o-rings i guess. After furthur inspection of pulling the valve cover off, I saw a GRIM picture.

One of the valve springs was broken in half. So this made my day MUCH better :thumbdown: With this basic info of my problems I was looking for some feedback on the process some of you would take to fix this.

I was hoping to find out which valve springs these are and was thinking of just replacing the one that is broken. Or should I definately be scared and replace all of them with something different. I haven't pulled the head off to examine the valve, but I'm afraid it might need to be replaced. I was then going to replace the gasket with the Mitsu MLS gasket. Now, should I go have the entire head rebuilt or would it be sufficient enough to replace what is broken. What would be some other suggestions. please help.

Thanks, Tom DeFrees
 
id take off the head and see what u have.u might be lucky and all the valve did was just bounce around.id check the whole valvetrain just to be safe.
 
If one is broken, why take the risk of replacing what is broken and breaking it again. You have to realize that every time you take that head off, which requires taking off valve cover, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, etc., all of those gaskets and such have to be replaced in order to get a good seal. It's going to be expensive so you should build it right the first time and do it once. It's one thing if this car is pretty much a strictly drag car, but it's not apparently.

Do it right and rebuild it with either BRAND NEW stock parts, or spend a little extra and get upgraded parts. My buddy rebuilt his head and he compared the price difference between stock parts and Crowers and the Crowers, total done deal, ended up being no more than $100 more. Doesn't seem like that hard of a decision to me.

Make sure you make sure that your head didn't warp...

~Mark
 
sounds like you got problems bub!

how bout we get that head off there, pull the valve and spring and see what kind it is and if a single replacement is available.... then put a real headgasket and real head bolts so you can roll on.......
if you need a new valve no fear I have 2 x-tra parts heads :D



P.S. 14b = mad traction = :thumbdown:
 
I have heard of others breaking web springs aswell. if one has broken CHANGE the lot!! dont risk it!! Crowers have a lot better name and are a more proven product go with them.
 
I'm not quite sure why you would replace an oil pan because it's not sealing and I don't know how coolant could physically blow out the thermostat? From what I can understand from your post is that you have a blown headgasket. The broken valve spring could hang that valve open and piston contact is quite possible. Removal of the head will reveal if valve to piston contact has occurred. You can get reman heads for about $300. whether you replace or repair the head make sure the deck surface is prepared properly for the head gasket you will be installing. If you are having problems locating an oil leak I recommend floresent dye. :dsm:
 
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