stumped!!! no start problem

[eDeclpse92]

ok, i am completely stimped here. I have a 91 tsi with 14b and a walboro 255(new) that has been a project for the past 2 years. (college student). Anyways i go to start it, and it will crank, but no start. it doesnt even sound like its trying to start or sputter at all. so my parents friend told me spray some starter fluid in the cylinders and try. What do you know, it started and ran for about 3 secs. So im assuming that my problem lies within the fuel system. so i took off the rail to try and diagnose everything. my injectors have an impedence of 2.7 ohms across them all, and the voltage going to the injector is around .4 to .7 volts and then it will hit about 1.06 Volts on every other engine revolution. (this is done while cranking). I know im getting fuel in the cylinders because I can smell fuel in the plugs when i take them out. and they are wet with gasoline. Ive searched the threads but cannot find another problem like this. Can anyone PLEASE help me???? thanks in advanced!!!
Ed

 

[turbotalon31]

if you have fuel then check for spark next. if you have spark do a compression test.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Did you check for spark? All the IC Pipes are connected properly? If the car has been sitting for a long time, make sure the gas isn't bad. I am sure others will chip in and help soon.

 

[eDeclpse92]

I do have spark in all cylinders, and im pretty sure i have compression or else it wouldnt have ran for 3 secs off of starter fluid. it has a rebuilt motor in it. it was basically a stock rebuild. i know the motor is in time ### all the marks line up when rotated 6 revs. any more ideas?? thanks for the input so far!

 

[LKWTSI]

First off..Never Assume it's a DSM
Second, your impedance is about right. According to the manual for the turbo it should be between 2 -3 ohms at 68*F.
If your getting fuel into the cylinders I doubt very much it's a fuel issue.
Sounds more like you're not getting spark.
Take a spark plug out or put a plug tester inline and crank it over and see if you're getting ignition.
From there you will have to look at the ignition pack or transistor for failure.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/268167-ignition-problem.html#post151257229

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/229419-how-test-power-transistors.html

wow go offline to look up links and fall behind all the replies. you guys are quick

 

[eDeclpse92]

all ic pipes are connected. I have a fmic. i have stock mafs, with 3 inch dejon pipe. vaccum lines are plugged up correctly. i found a thread on here with those diagrams. its all pretty new parts and its been sitting with newer gas in it. probably about 3 months old now.

 

[turbotalon31]

i would still check the compression just to be sure.

 

[eDeclpse92]

right. I am getting spark in all the cylinders. i took them all out and grounded them and they all sparked.

alright il check compression. il go out and do it right now.

 

[95TalonOwner]

If you are running a walbro 255 with no fpr you are probably overrunning the injectors and it could be flooding out.

 

[eDeclpse92]

i just did a compression test and this is the results. cylinder 1- 140, cylinder 2- 160, cylinder 3- 160, cylinder 4- 170. this was done on a very cold motor. im guessing the cylinder 1 rings havent quite seated yet.
and i have the stock fuel pressure regulator on the right side of the firewall. im pretty sure thats it. im not sure, this is my first build so im still new at this stuff. thanks for the help. can you tell me what else i need to have with a walboro 255? thanks alot!!!

 

[Tyeler18]

Do you have a logger?

Which cyl did you start testing on first? I'm going to guess #4?

 

[eDeclpse92]

no, i dont have a logger, i am going to buy one from my friend though. i started on cylinder 1 first. and i redid cylinder one again after it was all done and it came to 140 again. i just tested voltage to my injectors with the car on and it read 11.77 volts at the clip. i dont understand why its not starting. someone said something about me flooding out the motor and i do not know how to check for that.???

 

[Tyeler18]

That's why I asked if you had a logger. Then we could find out if your coolant temp sensor is faulty and flooding the motor. Pull your return line, crank the car over. Fuel should come out the FPR where the fuel line was connected.

Let us know if it does/doesn't.

 

[95TalonOwner]

You need an aftermarket fpr with a walbro 255. The stock fpr which is on the end of the fuel rail can't handle all that extra fuel being pumped through it.

 

[eDeclpse92]

alright. fuel shot out pretty fast. is there a way i can use voltmeter to check that temp sensor? and would that really cause my car to flood out and not start?

 

[Tyeler18]

alright. fuel shot out pretty fast. is there a way i can use voltmeter to check that temp sensor? and would that really cause my car to flood out and not start?

Happens all the time actually. I've responded to probably 15 threads this week and last week alone about failed CTS. I don't have my manual handy, but I'm pretty sure you can ohm out the sensor or something like that.

 

[eDeclpse92]

alright, i was told i can run a 255 with a stock fpr. what would you recommend on getting? maybe a link please??? and thanks for all your guys' help so far.

 

[Tyeler18]

alright, i was told i can run a 255 with a stock fpr. what would you recommend on getting? maybe a link please??? and thanks for all your guys' help so far.

You can run a 190 on the stock FPR but it's not recommended on the 255 (or the 190 I'd say). The aeromotive AFPR is going to be the best bang for the buck. Fuellab has a good one as well.

 

[eDeclpse92]

alright. i have the shop manual, so that should tell me the impedence it ahould be at. il go check that now

 

[sbiggi]

You can run a stock fpr with a 255, it will be "rich" but your fuel trims will probably compensate and bring it back to normal.

I run a stock fpr with a Walbro 255hp. You can tune the maf curve to correct for the increased fuel pressure and its a non issue

 

[eDeclpse92]

alright, i just ohmed out the temp sensor and it was about 5.3 ohms. it was also not plugged in...went to start the car and it still didnt start. this is bassically a stock car with a fmic and a walbro 255 and the head has been ported and polished (i dont think that makes a difference here). is there anything i need to do with that 255 to control it, ### ^^^ said he was running a stock fpr and the comp, compensated for it.??

 

[Tyeler18]

What's your manual say for the CTS ohm being good?

Next pull a plug wire and put a screwdriver in it, set it on the exhaust manifold and have a friend crank the car while you watch the screw driver. You should see an arc go from the screwdriver to the exhaust mani. Get back to us what you find there and we'll go from there. Might as well figure everything out before pulling things apart.

 

[eDeclpse92]

ok, i measured my cts again and it ohmed out to 5.18 ohms. the haynes manual says it should be between 2.2 and 2.7 ohms when cold. and i went ahead and measured the voltage going to the sensor and it was dead on at 4.7 volts. exactly what the manual says. and im guessing that method is to test for spark, and i have done that but just grounded the plug out on the mani and i have spark.

 

[Tyeler18]

Sounds like your CTS is bad.

Pull your fuel rail and see if the injectors are spraying a decent amount of fuel.

 

[eDeclpse92]

alright, thats what i thought. could it being off by that much keep my car from running??? and alright, i can do that real fast. il let you know.