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Stock amp [Merged 6-7] amplifier infinity wiring output watts

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okay here goes. im not new to the tuning scene but this is my first DSM. I got a 99 GSX with all the stock fixins at least i think i do LOL. Can someone tell me audio wise what comes with the infinty system and where the hell is the factory amp located? also is there a way for me to keep the factory amp and double it up with a aftermarket because as weak as they are i want to be able to run the factory tweets up front. and from what ive heard i wont beable to if i switch and i hate wasting crap regardless of what it is. also does anyone got part numbers for the cd changer.ROFL
 
oh oh i got this question, although all the veterans will tell you to search next time. But I was i the same boat, so i can explain.

The factory stock amp is located under the passanger seat. Our cars are wired parallel to the stock amp and directly to the speakers. You cannot just put in a new amp, it has a Din6 connector (half moon liek the old style keybaords from the early 90s) and While i believe there are adapters for them, because the cars are wired in parallel, it will not work unless you rewire the whole car, and by that time, you mise well wire the amp correctly.

Also the power and Line in lines are mitsubishi specific adapters, so I am nto sure of the wiring, but I am pretty sure there is a wierd way they do it. Basicly, I just unplugged the stock amps power and Line Ins and used an aftermarket head unit, whose internal amp was more powerful than the stock amp was, and only used a wiring harness to plug is all in.

I am preety new to cars in general, and this was my first audio installation, and I turned out perfect, just by searching a bit on the forums and with a manual with a wiring diagram. I would suggest doing it next time to make your life easier, and more welcome to the boards.
 
Ok this is how it goes down. You cannot use that Infinity amp with a aftermarket amp running to the same speakers, Sorry its not a waste it just wont do that. If you want more power to the factory tweets you need MORE POWER.
This is what I Recommend, Get a GOOD HIGH Quality after market Deck (CD PLAYER)............I Suggest ECLIPSE AS THE #1pic, alpine, Clarion or at LEAST a Pioneer or Kenwood deck. You should find something decent in the $200 dollar price range from a authurized dealer. Something in this area will also get you a aux input or a Ipod interface option, this will eliminate the need for a "CD Changer".
Why carry around all those CD's when you have upwards of 5000 songs on some mp3 players. I Don't buy anything else Unless its posted above, unless you like cheap junk, or dont want a good sounding cd player.

Next step, Get a Sub and amp. This step alone makes a HUGE difference in any car audio system. From music 30% of its frequency range is in subwoofer range, but most cars only have 6 ½ and a 6x9. So just Filling in the bottom end with a sub makes a HUGE change in the overall Imaging. This is VERY simple to understand, you need a larger speaker to produce low frequency bass, this is something your home stereo, Concert, or any thing that plays music ( with the exception of portable or small clock radios) Will have.
You could DO a lot of bass or a little, But a Simple 200watt amp with a single ten will do.
We sell a combo that does just that for about $300 Installed equipment and all.

Most everyone is VERY happy from the results from the first two steps, But if you go all the way and want more the next step is Mids and highs and amping those.
What it boils down to, To achieve great sound you need three things good quailty signal and lots of power, and equipment thats able to reproduce it.
Its a simple concept for a HP junkie like most of us. If you want to go fast you need more HP, More HP needs more fuel, Better parts, and a way to put it to the ground.
In car audio you want better sound you need more Wattage(AMPS), Good Signal Quality(CD Player or Deck), and good way to put it all down (speakers)

Things to look for:

Power ratings: Only use RMS! to rate a amps power
MAX POWER IS a JOKE! DONT BUY based on a max power of any equipment.
Its just a ploy to make cheap low power junk look better and fool the consumer to buy it.
300watts RMS is a LOT of power for the average consumer, Dont be fooled buy a Too good to be true 1100 Watt MAX power wall mart sony xplod, that amp is only 200watts rms at best and it is made with terrible parts.

Good audio shops: This is what I Cant stress enough, If you dont know enough about something you want to ask someone who does. You wouldnt buy a turbo for your car unless you knew what it would do or even if it would work with what you got.
A good Audio shop can save you Tons of money just because you wont end up buying the wrong thing and not getting what you want out of it. They should ask you Questions about what YOU want or like, and make suggestions based on your answers. They Will have the Best stuff you can buy for any price range (MOST SHOPS but not all) Basicly look at the cars there working on, If they are rolling out High end new cars and look killer your in the right kinda shop. IF they are doing nothing but beaters and g Dog cars chances are the a low budget shop whit the junk car audio stuff.

LAST but not at all LEAST is PROPER INSTALLATION. ANYTHING no matter how good is only as good as the Install. I don't think any shop should be willing to Do FREE install if there installers are any good.

Ive been a Car Audio shop manager for many years now and Know quite a bit about the subject so let me know if there is anything else you need.
 
If you dont really care and just want good sound, just get the deck you want at the price your willing to pay. Make sure it has all the features you need. Like if you are installing to external amps make sure it has all the preouts you need. Same with the amp and sub.

I've put together a 2g with all brand name stuff that people would laugh at, but I've put to shame cars that have a deck that cost as much as my entire setup (components, sub, 2 amps, deck, and rear speaks), its all in the install.

The MITAH adapter for the 2g will allow you to either use factory deck with aftermarket amp, or factory amp with aftermarket deck. Atuca is correct, but you don't have to rewire the entire car. The speaker leads are all at the factory amp harness. Search for my posts, I've described many different configurations to wire up the 2g.

If you need help or recommendations, let me know how much your trying to spend and what kind of sound you want to achieve, and if your going to be using a sub. Also don't always rely on recommendations from other people as far as what brands and pieces to get. IT's almost always skewed or biased.
 
Actually the reason you have to rewire the car is because of the parallel wiring; if you put an amp where the stock wires are, it will feed back to the head unit, because there is a split in the speaker wires that goes from the head unit to the speakers AND to the amp. At least that is what I researched, and the reason I didn't get an amp, because I didn't want to rewire the car. Besides though, once you get an aftermarket amp, you might want to use a higher gauge speaker wire anyways.

If I am totally wrong, at least you know there was my reasoning. Can anyone else verify or refute this?
 
Actually the reason you have to rewire the car is because of the parallel wiring; if you put an amp where the stock wires are, it will feed back to the head unit, because there is a split in the speaker wires that goes from the head unit to the speakers AND to the amp. At least that is what I researched, and the reason I didn't get an amp, because I didn't want to rewire the car. Besides though, once you get an aftermarket amp, you might want to use a higher gauge speaker wire anyways.

If I am totally wrong, at least you know there was my reasoning. Can anyone else verify or refute this?

No you don't have to rewire if you don't want to, I know about the parallel wiring. I've done several 2g cars, all with factory infinity system, all running separate amps for the speakers. I even did one that is using the factory infinity amp to power the rear speakers and aftermarket to power the front.

Search some of my posts and I believe I explained it a few times on relevant threads.

When you install an aftermarket headunit, and use an external amplifier to power the inside speakers, whether 2 channel or 4, you are NOT going to use the output wires of the deck, that would result in the deck powering the speakers. The only wires you need to hook up are the power (red), ground (Black), memory (yellow) and remote (blue). You then use the RCA preouts 2/4 and feed that to your new aftermarket amp, and then from the aftermarket amp, you wire the speaker outputs to the wiring harness of the stock amp, because all the leads are there already..

It's similar to how the stock setup works, that proprietary din cable that goes fromt he stock deck to the stock amp.. think of it as 4 channel rca output and the remote wire to turn ont he stock amp, thats all that din cable does.. and I prove this by looking at the MITAH adapter, which just converts it to just that. Also on the stock amp wiring harness is the ground and power for the amp itself. See the pin-out of that harness and you can locate it.

As for the stock speaker gauge wiring, it does fine with 50watt-90wattRMS power from the 3 2gs I've done. I wouldn't be surprised if it can handle more. I'm just an optimist.

To go back to the parallel wiring, how does the stock setup allow it, you are right that it will feed back to the head unit, but thats how stock setup already is. Maybe the stock deck notices if the din cable is plugged in or not--eliminating the deck to output. I didn't bother test and hook up the speaker outputs from the deck and use an aftermarket amp, but who would. But my main point is you don't have to rewire because as I stated above, you won't be installing the speaker outputs from whatever deck you get anyways if you are using an aftermarket amp.
 
thanks everyone. way helpful. one more thing do they make after market speakers for the tweet spots.


I would not recommend putting tweeters back in the stock spots as it's not the greatest for sound quality/clarity. I would say to put them in the doors. I don't know if they make ones that would just drop into the factory spot though...

But, if you do want them back in the stock spot for some reason, here is 3 tech articles I found from this site:

Best one (I think) - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213063

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228596

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232341
 
Just some information. I recently purchased a Metra 70-7003 which is the mitsubishi amp intergration kit. This is the same thing as the Mitah and includes both the amp cable and the power cable from a local car shop. Just in case you don't want to wait for online and shipping. You can call around your local car shops and see if they have it
 
i want to implement another amp and sub into my system. i am using the original deck/amp with new speakers. if i get the line converter i get the rca, but what then do i use for the remote wire aka the blue wire?

or should i go another route?
 
i want to implement another amp and sub into my system. i am using the original deck/amp with new speakers. if i get the line converter i get the rca, but what then do i use for the remote wire aka the blue wire?

or should i go another route?

you can tap to acc wire. or any 12v for that matter, but this way you can have it on just with key in acc to listen while car is not on (so no need to be in ign) add an inline switch if you want to be able to turn it off while not listening.

some might say tap to power antenna so its only on when stereo is on, however i believe power antenna only goes up when its in radio, when using cd it will turn off.

curious though, you do all that yet still use the crappy stock deck, thats like building up your motor, cams, stroked, etc and then stick with the stock t25.
 
curious though, you do all that yet still use the crappy stock deck, thats like building up your motor, cams, stroked, etc and then stick with the stock t25.

ouch, i think it sounds just fine with the stock deck. was planning on getting a new one in the near future and just wanted to add the amp and sub into the setup that i already have. no doubt about it of course i'd want a new deck if i could get one, just got to wait a couple weeks till $ comes in. thanks
 
If you're content with the sound of the stock deck -and, you really should be, as it's all you need in a car that's not all that quiet in the first place- search eBay for "USB SD radio" and grab just about any of them for about a hundred bucks. Wal*Mart doesn't show the VR3/Roadmaster I've been using and recommending for the last three years, but it was $80 and has been doing just great.
The cheap radios sound fine, a thumb drive or an SD card full of tunes will mean you'll never use the CD player, and who cares if a sub-$100 deck gets stolen. Most of them have removable faces, and many also have remotes for when you're just too drunk to be able to reach the dash. Get a harness adapter and an install kit at the same time, and you'll be happy.
 
ive already swapped the all 6 original speaker for newer ones that i had in my last car. sounds good but i want to hook up my newer head unit, subs, and maybe another small 2channel amp to power two 5 1/4s. the subs were connected using a 8gage wire, 1000watt 2channel kenwood amp, cap, and 2 12 rockfords. straight forward set up. so my question is how to get my head unit to run to the stock amp (ive read its more power), run my amp, and run the other small amp to my 5 1/4s. ive done systems before but never with an additional stock amp.
 
MITAH adapter, i believe i talk about it in this entire thread, read a few pages back.

but why do you want to do that? at first I thuoght even running the stock infinity amp powering the speakers sounds better than aftermarket headunits, but after some "tests" (comparing by ear) it seems like any aftermarket deck has cleaner/more power than the stock amp, but its on you, you can pull off what you want with the MITAH..

you can run your 5 1/4s to your other amp (dont know why you didn't get 6.5s, thats the stock size on our cars).. and use the stock amp to what im assuming the rear speakers.. and normal process running the sub amp..

you might find it better just having the rear speakers powered by the deck, then continue as planned amping the rest of the speakers, and throw out the stock amp
 
so id by the Factory Amplifier Integration harness to hook up the new hu. what i mean is i want to run the 6 speakers threw the stock amp. and run an additional 2 (5 1/4) speakers threw another amp. then run the subs. i want to use the stock amp to keep things the original and someday replace the stock amp. so to run the two other amps i would have to buy and rca splitter to run off the stock amp and buy another rca cable to run off the kenwood amp so i can run the other amp. can i keep using my 8gage if im running another amp? am i missing anything?
 
when you say 6 speakers, you mean dash speakers, door speakers, and rear speakers?

the dash speakers should be your highs.. having components up front is the optimal setup.. the xovers that come with a component set will only send the highs up to the dash speakers/tweeters.. the stock amp has that built into it, so if you use the mitah adapter then yes it will be like stock and those will work, but not good, again just using the deck power sounds better and getting xover or using the ones that come with the component set.

so then you keep mentioning these 5 1/4 speakers, are these additional speakers on top of the 6? so these will make it 8? there are no RCA outputs on the stock amp, so you cant split it there, you would need to split it from the deck.. if your other aftermarket amps has rca outputs, it helps with install and easy to daisy chain.
 
yea they are two additional. and yea there are outputs on my amp. i understand that it wont sound all that great at first but in a month or so ill have the money to buy another amp. now if i buy the amp to replace the stock amp what would be the easiest amp to buy for the install. prop have to be a 750 watt amp at least, right?
 
speak in terms of RMS power. that peak rating doesnt mean anything most of the time except to lure people into buying them.. check how much power your speakers like to run on, try to get an amp that matches to it.
 
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