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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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I believe if i remember correctly the starter relay will make a click not a buzzing sound like the one in the video.. did these cars ever come with a security setup in the headunit to stop theft after a electrical change?
 
security system will kill spark and fuel only I think.
Check starter connection, or jump it straight to the battery and see if it works, is probably bad.
 
Thats good you've got a sound to go off of but you still need to troubleshoot it like you would any other no start. 2g: How To Diagnose A No Start This way you can determine whats causing the problem without guessing.

You mentioned that you just installed a starter and a new battery, what was the reason for this? When you installed your starter did you forget to disconnect your battery first and arc/spark any of your tools to the block (or anything else) when you were pulling the (+) connection?

:dsm:
 
Ok so ive done alot of reading so far, ive got a 95 talon tsi fwd built bottom end, stock top end stock fuel system execpt the fuel pump which is a walboro 255, i bought the car 2 days ago drove it 200 miles home, it drove fine no issues turned it off and back on like 6 times on the ride home, I parked it outside that night when i got home, when i came outside the next day it just cranks over wont acutually turn on, I did the no start diagnose on here, i have spark i have fuel i have compression the timing is on. i replaced plugs, wires, ect, cas, checked all fuses, still nothing, i tried to push start it (compression start) and its not really doing anything other than coming to a stop. The CEL comes on when i turn the key on, the boost guage goes up half-way when the car is tring to start its only about 1/4th the way up when the key is just on. uhm It will backfire one time when i go to start it, then it just cranks.. if i wait about 30-40 minutes after i have tried to turn it on it will backfire once and then just cranks, if i wait 10 minutes it just cranks doesnt backfire so i dont know what else to do im at a total loss, in idea's and money LOL.. soo any idea's would b great. Thanks alot.
 
Thats good you've got a sound to go off of but you still need to troubleshoot it like you would any other no start. 2g: How To Diagnose A No Start This way you can determine whats causing the problem without guessing.

You mentioned that you just installed a starter and a new battery, what was the reason for this? When you installed your starter did you forget to disconnect your battery first and arc/spark any of your tools to the block (or anything else) when you were pulling the (+) connection?

:dsm:

Well, it started with an older battery about two weeks ago, with the exact same setup, the only thing I have changed since then is the battery. Before the car was just cranking really slowly. I was only getting about 11.5 volts during cranking so I decided to buy a new battery. It has been just sitting in the cold. I replaced the starter becasue I had the IM off and decided I would just go ahead and do it considering im looking to sell it soon and who knows how old it was. All fuses checked out OK. I will double check all my connections to the starter. I did not arc the starter when I changed it, did that once a long time ago and now I never forget to disconnect the battery.

Thanks for all the replies.

Update: all connections to the starter are solid.
 
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I apologize if this post is jumbled, I'm just a bit frustrated right now. I just got my head back from the machine shop and got everything bolted up to the car. (all mods are updated in my profile) The head is a fresh rebuild, and the block has less than 200 miles on it. Before the head rebuild the car started and ran fine, but I had an intake cam sieze up which led me to getting a new head.

I tried to start the car up tonight and all I got was the engine turning over with a few loud backfire pops here and there. I verified spark, fuel, and mechanical timing, everything there was spot on.

Which led me to the compression test. My readings were 0psi,65psi,15psi,30psi.


I started to think that maybe my lifters weren't bled down correctly, so I pulled them out. Some felt like they had absolutely no pressure and some felt like they did. Could that be my issue? Or am I overlooking something else?:confused:

Any and all advice is appreciated.
 
Something isnt right so pull the head and go from there, speculating now on what caused the problem, to find out for sure, fill us in more once you have the head off, and inspected everything. Bad tensioner, or pulleys something wasnt done correctly if you have compression issues, many different avenues.
 
I sure hope for your sake there's no damage. I see that you did check the timing, my bad.

When you pulled the valve cover you couldn't see anything odd on cylinder 1?
 
Timing appears to be dead on.

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Check timing at the crank pulley, not with the harmonic balancer. Assuming you bolted it on correctly yes I suppose they should line up but the only way to be sure it to go look. You need to find out why you have those compression numbers. Did you bleed down the lifters by hand before you installed the new head?
 
0psi,65psi,15psi,30psi You had compression on 3 cylinders out of 4. With 3 cylinders firing you heard the back fire, timing was way off but it "ran" though. If you know someone or have close by a Vo-Tech, you can see if they have a "bore scope" available. Otherwise, another tear down to inspect and fix will be required. Bore scope just gets you closer to inspect the problem area, they hard to find someone who has one though, handy tool for suspecting "valve" issues. It's probably something simple like a valve regrind, so don't get discouraged, it's mechanical, it can be fixed.

Btw, You did check the oil level right?
 
Everything inside is the head is brand new except for the lifters. I asked my mechanic at the machine shop to bleed the lifters for me before putting them in and he said he did. The valves were brand new from Manley and I don't believe he did anything other than a valve seat grind.
 
WIth the lifters out, all valves should be closed. I remember making a tool with one of these spark plug foulers and a hose attached to it and then i was blowing air in with my mouth to see if there were leaks. If all cylinders check out then you know its the lifters, if they dont then start looking for possible valve seating problems.

I know its kind of ghetto thing to do, but thats how I found an not enough bled lifter after I actually bled them.
 
Aright Dsmer I got an Eprom Ecu and pluged it in and everything and now my car is running. Thanks everyone for their input, Much love!!! :D
Over all it was the Ecu that was bad!
 
Ah 4 days later and I can reply haha! Thanks for the info. So far I suppose im lucky being that my Talon is 21 years old and still with the stock ECU. Yeah I have always seen our ECU's as being kinda frail so I was curious...
 
Btw, You did check the oil level right?

Yes, oil level is correct

I'm wondering if your machinist knew what he was doing. Who did the timing belt?

I'm starting to wonder the same thing. I did the timing belt, and the timing is spot on. I'm gonna pull my crank pulley and timing covers off just to make sure, but I've turned the motor over several times by hand and everything has lined back up perfectly.


WIth the lifters out, all valves should be closed. I remember making a tool with one of these spark plug foulers and a hose attached to it and then i was blowing air in with my mouth to see if there were leaks. If all cylinders check out then you know its the lifters, if they dont then start looking for possible valve seating problems.

I know its kind of ghetto thing to do, but thats how I found an not enough bled lifter after I actually bled them.

That's actually not a bad idea.

My question is since the lifters are out all of the valves should be closed with no leaks. Can you do any type of compression test with the lifters out to see if compression is built back up?
 
The ecu going bad can be tricky because you go over all other senarios first and check ecu last. Good to hear you were able to get your ride rolling again
 
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