Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[NHerron]

The black box to the right unplugged isn't your mfi or mpi relay. Check that link I gave you it shows a pic of mfi right off the bat. In the meantime ill find what that is you have unplugged

Ok that relay (likely labeled MB543648V, G8R-27M-V) is related to your power door locks according to Mitsubishi ASA and this thread, among others:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/287852-power-door-lock-relay.html
^luv2rallye knows a lot about that relay.

Did you check out the relay in this link for the buzzing sound source?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/263224-mfi-mpi-relay.html

 

[DanGST]

Where can u find a vacuum line and also how are the spark plug wire connected like what is the order

 

[tfaulk21]

1234 from right to left haha there at different ohms or something like that too not much expierience with that and get a chiltons or hanes book on these cars they have vaccum diagrams and the firing order

 

[DeadlyScone]

Get all your lines and sensors hooked up peoperly. Then, are you getting fuel? Are you getting spark? are you timed correctly? Do you have compression? Check all of that and let us know.

 

[jcart953]

Attached is a copy of the firing order and spark plug wire routing. Dont mind my chicken scratch handwriting though.

 

[mattrcspeed]

i has same problem i was cleaning upp some wires around the head and fire wall and i forgot to plug in 2 random plugs so make sure all plugs are in , i went throo hell trying to see what was wrong

 

[Clinical]

To start out:
This is a 1.8L 4g37, not a 4g63 - but I suspect this could be a universal issue.

Ever since I bought the car, there has been an issue where if you accidentally stall it such as letting clutch out to fast or something, the car will just crank and not start for a bit. It usually took about 20 seconds to start up again.

It has progressively been getting worse, I was thinking it was the fuel pump.
I accidentally hit ice and stalled it the other day and it took about 2 minutes of trying to get it to re-start.

Every time after trying to start it during the time it won't start, when it finally does start it smells like old burnt fuel or something, can't really describe it.

However, if you just turn the car off normally, it has ALWAYS started instantly no problem.

Anyway, my cv shaft pretty much went boom friday and I limped it home, and changed it - and then boom now it wont start at all. I should mention on friday the last time I drove it when I started it at first it didnt start on my first try cranking which is unusual for it, then it started when I tried again but kind of sputtered for a second before idling normal.

Now after I put in the cv shaft it won't start whatsoever. Just cranks.
I was thinking it was the fuel pump, but I took the rear seat out and pretty sure I hear the fuel pump loud as hell and I smell fuel.

Any ideas based on the history of my starting issues?

 

[DanGST]

So I was talking to another dsmer and we was discussing about my situation. I have no spark or no fuel injector pulse. When I did the head swap I broughf the 1g green top cas. He was telling me about something about rewiring the 1g cas becuase they also send a "message" for the crank. When I was looking up tje diagram there are two diagrams which one should I go by to rewire the cas and can that be the reason I have a crank bit no start

 

[Est-1993]

I have a '91 Talon with an EVO III engine swap. I drove it out (about a four hour drive) and the next day it wouldn't start. It turned over, but didn't fire. My coolant warning light was on, and when I checked it, it had the wrong anti-freeze and was all jelled up (I recently bought the car). So, I flushed the rad. put the right coolant in, and just to be sure, I replaced the sensor, but still nothing. I also replaced the Cam angle sensor, and checked spark plugs. Plugs are fine and the fuel pump turns on. I was wondering if maybe it could be the ECU, so I took it apart and noticed there was some damage by one of the capacitors. However when I talked to the guy I bought the car off of, he said that happened when he replaced the capacitors a while ago (and the car was running fine up until now).
I feel like I'm running out of ideas here! If anyone thinks they know what could be wrong, please let me know!
Thanks in advance.

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html



that would do it sounds like a bad ecu, have it fixed or find another one, the caps will cause it not to start, if its damaged, apparently they are.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Take a pic of the ecu with the bad cap and post it up here and that will make it easier to tell for us

 

[dsmsleeeper]

Send the ecu in for repair

 

[doayamaha]

if there is damage on the board it is only a matter of time untill it goes, so replace the ecu.

 

[ArtMaybee]

if there are traces on the board that are eaten or corroded when you change the caps, it's really not a huge deal to solder in jumper wires to reconnect the good ends of the trace past the corrosion. If you have access to a Multimeter with a continuity setting it'll be easy to check for broken traces in the acid damaged areas of the board. It might be a pain and it's probably easier to send the board off for repair.

Is it an ugly solution but who will see it anyway.
Does the ECU control the OEM boost gauge? Are you using a DSM ECU? If using the EVO ECU do they control the electronic "boost gauge" like the DSM units? When my ECUs died the biggest tell was the boost gauge not moving when the ignition was turned on.

 

[tonyseagle]

Could also be a clogged fuel filter.

 

[volcomsnow245]

First step would definatley be to try and swap out the ecu with a good one. Also see if your boost gauge reads 0 when u turn the key before starting it and your check engine comes on then goes away. If that doesn't work, check to see if your getting fuel into the rail by removing the line that brings it up to the fuel rail and put it in a bottle. Use the fuel pump jumper wire or have a friend crank the car for a second to see if fuel is acually flowing. The reason I say this is because my fuel line has come off my fuel pump so many times whenever I have a no start I go strait to the gas tank. Just a thought give it try and get back to us.

 

[gakattack456]

Repair the ECU! My friend had the same problem and everything was fine afterwards.

 

[cantgo2fast]

Sorry, been out of town for my birthday

Well the buzzing is gone now with that relay unplugged, that is totally weird. Do they share a common ground perhaps? I will plug that one back in and try fiddling the MFI/MPI relays today hopefully

Buzzing is definitely coming from that relay. Funny thing is that it started with the relay plugged in and the power window relay plugged in. Does anybody know where the MPI relay grounds to to make sure I dont just fry another one (instead of playing contortionist under my dash for an hour) Also, I cant seem to find it on rockauto

Should I bring up the idle issues since I seem to have everyones help?

 

[gakattack456]

+2 sounds like alternator or wiring for charging system.

 

[ENICKB]

Vaccuum leak? Possible weak battery and or alternator? Fuel pump is a possibility, what is your fuel pressure? Check your spark plugs. Check the plug wires for cracks (idle at night and look for the purple light show). CHECK TIMING! Let us know what you find.

 

[theoutlaw82]

Could also be a clogged fuel filter.

Listen to this guy and change the fuel filter first. Its best to to rule out the cheap easy causes first. That way you don't waste alot of money just to find out its a $8 part that takes 5 minutes to change.

 

[Burntz]

Whats the timing look like? When my exhaust cam jumped two teeth, it was running fine, I shut it off, when I went to start it later... no start, just cranking.

 

[Est-1993]

There's the ECU. You can see the little burnt out spots above the right capacitor.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Send it to ecmtuning for a diagnosis, if needed have it repaired, and your all done.

 

[Clinical]

wont idle at all, wont even try to start.

alternator shouldnt be an issue, it cranks strong and holds a charge great.
plugs only have about 4k miles on them and look normal, same with wires
during cranking, spark is good on all 4cylinders. Timing is good. I suppose I can look for vacuum leaks but its never ran odd at all.