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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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I used to have the same problem in my 95 gst. I changed the cam angle sensor and still nothing. I was getting spark but not all the way i had a short in the cam angle sensor. That fixed my problem.

So once the short was addressed it was fixed, good to know. Lots of damn wire's to look at but with enough days/weeks it'll get done LOL :cool:
 
I used to have the same problem in my 95 gst. I changed the cam angle sensor and still nothing. I was getting spark but not all the way i had a short in the cam angle sensor. That fixed my problem.

Thats a good point. definately check for a short first before tearing apart the front of the motor. you can also visually inspect the CAS and feel it to see if its physically broken.
 
All day my 2g has been running fine I have had no problems at all and when I was leaving tonight it would not fire. It's turning over and it sounds like the compression is good. This is strange. I checked the oil and that was good and I did not see metal in it well for what I could see. I heard that you could tell codes based on service lights. This is what is lite up. Service engine, oil, and battery. I have been having issues with ignition lately
 
All day my 2g has been running fine I have had no problems at all and when I was leaving tonight it would not fire. It's turning over and it sounds like the compression is good. This is strange. I checked the oil and that was good and I did not see metal in it well for what I could see. I heard that you could tell codes based on service lights. This is what is lite up. Service engine, oil, and battery. I have been having issues with ignition lately

did you try and get a jump? Maybe your battery is dead. Did you check all the fuses?
 
I'm not really sure to start with this. I guess by saying I've thrown alot of money at this and no fix, Coilpacks, wires and plugs (NGK BPR7ES gapped to .028) are new, Coolant Temp Sensor is also new. My car has alot of issues starting initially and slowly getting harder to start. I have a Wallbro 255, 1000CC injectors and an AFPR set to 44 with the vacuum line off, 37 with it on. The other issue ontop of that is I'm burning ALOT of fuel, I don't know the exact gas mileage, but if I had to guess, about half of what it was prior. It all started when I changed my Idle Air Control Valve. I'm open to all ideas, I'm thinking something in the intake is off (sensor out of adjustment) or something to that degree, or changing an O2 sensor. Thanks to anyone who can help _-_ I'm at my end LOL

Edit: I've tried hooking it up to an OBD2 only to find out the previous owner butchered the harness under the dash and changed it to an OBD1 and I have no idea why.
 
It was tuned on DSMlink and the AFPR goes on a set pressure. How would it change out of nowhere and for no good reason? I've owned the car for close to 2 years now.
 
Your mod list shows no way for you to control those injectors, so straight away I'm going to guess those injectors are causing all your issues.

Hey, I tried to hook the snap on solus ultra up and it wouldn't work, does link have to always be installed to keep the tune? Or will the ecu flash and keep it the same map with link uninstalled?

And another note, I always thought the computer controlled the spray that's why some people go over their injector size they need so that way they weren't maxed out all the time?
 
From what I've heard it flashes them, cause keeping DSMlink connected would require a laptop in there at all times.

And the ECU does control the injectors, and they were tuned on E85 at I believe 16 PSI. But until I get this fuel issue sorted out I'm not running E85.
 
Hey, I tried to hook the snap on solus ultra up and it wouldn't work, does link have to always be installed to keep the tune? Or will the ecu flash and keep it the same map with link uninstalled?

And another note, I always thought the computer controlled the spray that's why some people go over their injector size they need so that way they weren't maxed out all the time?

Your Solus should connect unless the settings are set to "lock communications in Ecmlink only"

Link, (being the eprom chip) must always stay installed. If you pull the eprom chip the car won't run. If you put in the stock eprom, you'll be back to the stock tune.

From what I've heard it flashes them, cause keeping DSMlink connected would require a laptop in there at all times.

And the ECU does control the injectors, and they were tuned on E85 at I believe 16 PSI. But until I get this fuel issue sorted out I'm not running E85.

Yes the laptop flashes the eprom, you don't need the laptop all the time.

If you were tuned on e85, you need to run e85. It has 33% less stored energy by volume than gasoline, so running pump gas on an e85 tune would put you pig rich.
 
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Your Solus should connect unless the settings are set to "lock communications in Ecmlink only"

Link, (being the eprom chip) must always stay installed. If you pull the eprom chip the car won't run. If you put in the stock eprom, you'll be back to the stock tune.



Yes the laptop flashes the eprom, you don't need the laptop all the time.

If you were tuned on e85, you need to run e85. It has 33% less stored energy by volume than gasoline, so running pump gas on an e85 tune would put you pig rich.

Funny thing is I've been running pump gas (93) for about 6 months with no issues until I changed my IAC. It never ran rich, relatively lean for some reason. Closest E85 station is almost 40 miles away...bit of a drive to get more fuel _-_ I'm trying to figure out why changing the IAC all this happened. It had great mileage before that, but wouldn't hold an idle, would just die.
 
That is strange. I have never heard of anyone switching back and forth between E85 and gasoline without adjusting the tune. After all E85 requires gigantic injectors; it's no secret that it takes a crapload more of it to do the same work.
 
Yeah, I know that about E85, but it switched over just fine. Surprised me LOL I'm just as much at a loss for my issue now....idk whether O2 sensors, Exhaust leak...I can't hear one, but that doesn't always mean anything. I'll have my wideband installed when I get paid, next friday. I've never been comfortable with this narrowband in it now. Just haven't had the money until now. I'm seriously open to all ideas LOL
 
Are you keeping fuel pressure after shut off? I had a problem where the o ring on my fuel pump shook loose and fuel pressure would drop causing hard start and lean idle issues.

Actually no, fuel pressure goes down quite fast. I never even thought of that LOL
 
Ive heard of 2g ecus resetting to stock after batterys been disconnected. Did you disconeect the battery for IAC install? For link, 1gs store a hard copy on the ecu and can be removed and retain the tune. I believe some 2gs with link reset. Ive seen the problem but I cant remember if it was link or ostrich or something else, but in the case Im thinking of the tune needed to be reflashed whenever power was cut.
 
Ive heard of 2g ecus resetting to stock after batterys been disconnected. Did you disconeect the battery for IAC install? For link, 1gs store a hard copy on the ecu and can be removed and retain the tune. I believe some 2gs with link reset. Ive seen the problem but I cant remember if it was link or ostrich or something else, but in the case Im thinking of the tune needed to be reflashed whenever power was cut.

That's correct. Unless you have V3 you will lose your settings when you disconnect the battery.
 
Alright after weeks of going thru many problems with my 95 GST and it not starting, I finally narrowed it down to a bad bunch of wiring from the previous owner under the steering column, it looks like a an after market wiring harness to the ignition. it is cracked and fried at the connectors (see pics below) I was wondering if anyone had a pic or a diagram of how it should look. like from the connector so I can rewire it the correct way. This all started with my fuel pump not getting power. So I rewired it with the inline fuse and relay, and I connected a switch from a 12v source and it flooded the motor. So I need to fix the original wire that got friend. So please have any idea how the wiring under the steering column should looK? from the harness where it is burnt,

I crawled under the dash and this is the mess. it looks like an aftermarket wire harness to the ignition switch, and i followed the fuel pump wire up to this, where it is burnt through. How can i wire this up the right way? is this my problem? im so confused
 

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