Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Every little bit helps.

Agreed

 

[92AWDHX40]

Some posts will help you in some sort of way or another not to many are precise answers to questions, check wiring, cts, ecu, coil pack. igniton transisitor.

 

[WES_393]

Did a cold compression test #1 80 2#78 3#80 4#76

This is likely your problem. If the air/fuel mixture isn't being compressed it won't ignite.

I'd start by checking the timing marks. If they are still good, then you need to run a leak-down test to find out exactly what is leaking. It could be anything from piston rings to valves that aren't seated.

 

[brobo]

i have spare ecus but my issue is u can hear a clicking by engine when trying to jump it

Well so i took your guys advice and i just jumped my starter relay and it cranked and started so i think i blew the starter realy , again thanks guys for the help

 

[95GSTowner]

I don't see why you ask about gas fumes. The fumes have no bearing on whether or not the car starts. In any case, your car does have an EVAP system which already lets the gas fumes circulate to the intake of your engine. So again, no relevancy there.

Although I hear everyone say that the timing is good, check it again. Then triple check it.

Back to basics, verify spark, verify compression. It'll hit you like a train when you figure it out. I wish I could help you out more but it seems pretty basic for me, based off the info you provided.

I also don't think 8 months would foul that gas out.

Oh. AND those compression numbers? SUUUUPER low. I just did a build with 180 across the board. Look up what you need to be indicating and base your diagnosis off the raw numbers. Sometimes, you don't like what you see, but... then again, we ARE dealing with the Devil's Diamonds.

DSM4Life.

If you have dead gas, the car will not start. I know what you mean and I appreciate your help. I was just wanting to rule it out but I asked about the gas fumes because the fuel return line has been disconnected for 8 months. Unless there is something to block it, fuel is being exposed to the outside elements via the fuel return line. If that is true then it seems like it could have gotten some moisture in there as well. I asked a couple of mechanics about this and they said it's possible so I don't think my logic is that off. Think of it like this, if you had a 5 gallon jug of gas sitting and you left the cap off of it for 8 months. Do you think that gas would still be good? It might be but I'm not sure. Anyway, I've read multiple threads about fuel washing out the cylinders and that it will lower your compression readings big time. As I stated, theres a puddle of fuel on top of the pistons and the plugs were soaked with gas so that lead me to believe that is causing the lower compression. Also thats a Cold Compression reading because the car will not run.

This is likely your problem. If the air/fuel mixture isn't being compressed it won't ignite.

I'd start by checking the timing marks. If they are still good, then you need to run a leak-down test to find out exactly what is leaking. It could be anything from piston rings to valves that aren't seated.

Thanks for the help, I'm run a leak-down test

 

[born2tune]

Call me crazy but I had a fuel problem like you once and I couldnt figure out why it kept flooding the chambers as well. So I squeezed the fuel feed line with vise grips right before the fuel rail and cranked it. Guess what? it started but began to detonate a little because it had alot of fuel but once it burnt it off it ran fine ever since. Weird? Yes try it.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

You should wash you cylinders with some oil. 8 months of sitting can give you sealing problems with the rings.

I'd take out the plugs clean them off, pour alil oil in each cylinder(enough to cover the whole piston) & spin the engine over a good 6 times.

Maybe put rags over the holes. Repeat 2-4 more times. Last maybe crank it over 2 more rolls to help clean out alil better.

Redo compression test and see what you get. Also open throttle when doing so. And with all plugs out. Then reinstall plugs and see what happens. Also try the squeezing feed line. My brother just had to do that to a bmw the other night.

 

[geno414]

I didnt see an answer to the "Did you remove all your emissions" question.. also, what are your mods?

i didn't remove all of them but that was never a problem before i also have no engine codes.

Grab yourself a can of brake/carb cleaner and when the issue presents spray down the CAS and try starting the car. The CAS may be failing when it gets hot.

my cas only has 1560 miles on it same as my engine and tranny. my cas is new

Please people quit blaming all this no start bs on cts's. This is not even close sorry. Cts would give cold start issues not hot. Think before you post. And fwiw bad cts causing no start is usually pretty rare. Go unplug yours and see if you can start your car.


Op, your looking at a sensor issue IMO. Sounds like your CAS is going bad.
You should try and test it when its not starting.

its not my cts ! i fixed that problem and my cas is new .

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

i didn't remove all of them but that was never a problem before i also have no engine codes.



my cas only has 1560 miles on it same as my engine and tranny. my cas is new



its not my cts ! i fixed that problem and my cas is new .

Where did you get it? Try swapping in your old one and see what happens

 

[miguelmcv]

i didn't remove all of them but that was never a problem before i also have no engine codes.



my cas only has 1560 miles on it same as my engine and tranny. my cas is new



its not my cts ! i fixed that problem and my cas is new .

If you stick to that plan, then you should better take it to a mechanic to get it fixed, that's the only way to fix it, which you are ignoring some good points to check,
your cts wouldn't be a problem but your cas will.

The problem you have is more common to be produced by the transistor, coil, cas and vary or I would say extremely rare cts.

A lot of things can happens when putting something new, some parts comes all ready defective and some comes good and at the time they are hooked up/plug, they become garbage..

My best advice would be to check first your transistor,,, second your cas, I was going to put at first to check your coil, but you all ready stated you test it and it came good, so just test those 2 components and you will find your problem.

 

[95GSTowner]

Thanks for the quick and informative responses. I'm gonna work on it this weekend. 1st I'll drain the gas out, put fresh gas back in & change fuel filter. Then use the oil trick multiple times to lube the cylinders and clean the fuel out. Next I'll do a WOT compression test and report the readings. BTW, the previous compression test was WOT as well. Lastly, I'll squeeze the fuel line a lil bit and see if it starts.

 

[geno414]

Where did you get it? Try swapping in your old one and see what happens

i got it from the dealership i cant switch to my old one because i no longer have a 7 bolt engine my mod list is up to date to the most part i have a 1g cas black top new.

If you stick to that plan, then you should better take it to a mechanic to get it fixed, that's the only way to fix it, which you are ignoring some good points to check,
your cts wouldn't be a problem but your cas will.

The problem you have is more common to be produced by the transistor, coil, cas and vary or I would say extremely rare cts.

A lot of things can happens when putting something new, some parts comes all ready defective and some comes good and at the time they are hooked up/plug, they become garbage..

My best advice would be to check first your transistor,,, second your cas, I was going to put at first to check your coil, but you all ready stated you test it and it came good, so just test those 2 components and you will find your problem.

well i never tested my coil pack and it is from 95 i ordered a new power tr unit from extreme psi with a new temp sensor last week to be on the safe side but they have yet to come. but i don't think it is mt cts because i tested it and i put in the good one and for the cas it all ways worked fine before but it could be going out sorry for being a dic* every one i'm just getting fed up with my car it never works to be honest.

 

[98zx23369]

When its cold and you start it up can you drive it? or atleast give it throttle?

 

[Hunter89]

So today I finally had a day off so all day I was wrenchin. I put everything together, plugged everything up, new coolant, oil filter, oil, new gear oil in tranny, transfer, and rear and some new spark plugs basically a tune up. So I put the battery in, connected it and I cranked the engine. It was hesitant to start. Finally it started, ran a lil rough and idled high around 2k for about a minute.Then it died. I went to start it, it wouldn't start again. Idk what it could be. I can hear the fuel pump so I know it's working. It has gas also. I don't think it's the coil, ### I can't imagine it starting then not working. I just changed the spark plugs. I'm waitin on some ngk wires I ordered. I'm new to dsm's so I don't have a lot of experience with these cars. I'd appreciate any advice or input. Thanks

 

[turbolover10]

I'd start with checking spark and making sure your getting fuel to the rail and report back. It is turning over correct just not firing?

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[brobo]

OK well i guess i hate this car even more. i went to start it and nothing just little puffs and no start.
so i have checked my fuel pump and it is good but there are no 12v going to the pump as in no signal .
i swaped ecus and nothing. what should i look into next. my car is 95 eprom ecu, 1g head on 2g 7bolt block and it has a greentop cas .
i still dont see how welding caused this

 

[warren]

That's a first never I've I disconnected the battery before welding

 

[brobo]

That's a first never I've I disconnected the battery before welding

ik but i guess now we know

 

[mattiouti]

Did you put the wires back in their proper spots?

 

[fourgsixthree33]

ALWAYS disconnect your battery and ECU when welding on your car.

 

[DSM IN MN]

Worst case scenario; take your starter out and bring it to any NAPA with a machine shop. Usually they will check to see if it works for free. We do at our store anyways.

 

[Tyeler18]

ALWAYS disconnect your battery and ECU when welding on your car.

This. You're send HIGH amperage/voltage (pending MIG or TIG) through the car, it's great to murder your electronics. More than likely your MPI relay is fried.

If you're ever going to weld on it again, disconnect the battery AND remove the ecu from the car completely. Especially if you're TIG welding. It'll kill them quick.

 

[geno414]

When its cold and you start it up can you drive it? or atleast give it throttle?

ya i can drive it throttle rev it 2 step it everything . well not drive i was to scared i'd get suck .

 

[007jimmy]

you need to test things after you heat the car up and it doesnt start not when its cold. you could have gotten a bad coolant temp sensor. it might be reading right at cold startup but when it warms up it could be telling the car hey im overheating so your not able to start it. a coil pack when hot might not work the same as cold and the same goes for your crank trigger and cam sensor. If you have link it would make diagnosing the culprit so much easier because you can log what each sensor is doing and figure out what sensor is bad when hot.