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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
details details details, nobody can you help you without any details....
Does it crank at all? Does it fire at all but just not start?
Also there is a tech article on no starts, I suggest you look it up and start there, then if you don't come up with anything you'll have at least ruled out the usual suspects and someone can try to help figure it out.
 
After reading the posts on the other forum, I would try grounding the battery in the trunk. Thats what I did when I moved the battery to the trunk.

As for the starter shim, did you ever get the right one? If Im thinking of the shim your talking about its the plate that goes between the transmission and the block?

How many grounds total do you have and where are they?
 
Sorry for the bad details guys , The car does not crank. although the car was running fine less than 8 months ago. I've checked the ground wires, there is one wire grounding the battery to the rear strut tower , one main ground ran all the way to one of the starter bolts , a ground on the starter harness , and a ground on the transmission. I have no clue where these ground are truely supposed to go.


As for the shim we have the new shim which is slghtly thicker, and we're going to pull the trans off, but we noticed the car wouldnt start so this is where we're at..
 
I put the starter back on 100 times and the car wont start
Only 100 times? That's the problem right there, you need to attempt to install the starter at least 125 times before they work correctly.
 
Have you tested the starter to make sure it works?

Not sure why it's grounded to the strut but I would delete that and run a large ground from the battery to a bolt in the trunk on the frame.
Then ground the starter somewhere on the firewall.
Also there should be a ground from the intake manifold to the firewall.

I also read in your other thread something about squirrels? Did you check for any damaged wires in the engine bay?
 
I've bench tested the starter, it works.
The grounds appear descent , I may have just missed the one on the intake mani. squirels just packed the fenders full of accorns LOL no real damage that i've seen besides a chewed windsheild wiper fluid hose...

Its weird though, I know the car ran because my brother started the car last, I went over everything with him and he said he put the starter on and it worked fine. But when i first got the car to my house I wanted to swap the narrowband O2 sensor for an AEM UEGO , when i turn the key to the on position i dont get any power to the UEGO, but the CD player comes on , cluster shows power, but when i try to start it the fuel pump sounds like its "grinding" and the bendix kicks out but no spin/crank.....:hmm:
 
Depends on where you buy them. I've had horrible issues with part store sensors. Cam and crank. Replaced crank with a used oem one. Been working 24 k now. Upon changing cams i broke the cam sensor i bought. This was around 10-14k. Had to replace it within a month. Less than 1k it start acting up and eventually got to the point where it took about 20 times once to start my car. Replaced it and have been fine since.

New doesn't always guarantee good.
 
I have a 95 talon tsi with a 6 bolt swap and i replaced the cts , coil pack , power tr unit , cleaned my plugs new injectors i get fuel pressure i hear my pump kick on but i won't get a hot start ! i have looked every where non stop and i can not find this problem ! when the car is cold it will start but after it worms up and i try to restart it it just will crank and that is it untill i let it cool 100% then it will start back up. i am really confused and i have tried everything dump cold water on fuel rail to see if i had a fuel problem spray cold starting fluid on the cas i just don't get it can SOME ONE PLEASE HELP ME !!!! PLEASE I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS WRONG AT ALL !!!!!!:confused:
 
I think you have the wrong starter for that model car or the starter plate is too thick/thin and the starter is missing the flywheel.

First thing I would do is verify that the starter you have is infact for a fwd or awd model. Whichever the car is. If your positive the starter is the correct one then try putting flat washers between the starter and the transmission on the bolt.
Just put one thin washer on each bolt. This will act as a thicker starter plate and space the starter back a little further. If the starter grabs the flywheel now then you know your starter plate is too thin. You can try different thickness washers.
Unfortunately this will only work if your currect starter plate is too thin. If its too thick and causing the starter to miss the flywheel, your only option is to find the thinner plate that belongs there.
FYI, you do not need to take the transmission completely out of the car to get the starter plate out. Once you get the transmission about an inch off the block you can work the plate out. Its a pain but I have done it before.
 
i have heard of it being the CAS. i have an extra good one that i pulled off a head if you need it. also i would test the coolant temp sensor with a volt meter.

is it the black top cas ? and how much because i would just wasnt to install it to see if it is the problem and my coolant temp is normal i just did a short log and it is around 24* out side today and that is what my coolant said two so that is good for sure.
 
well a new cas is $519.00 from the dealer ship and i do not want to spend that much on a part that could but couldn't be bad at the same time....
You could change it for another part store one to see if it works. You said yours is near new maybe you could do a defective exchange
 
Not sure why this got revived, but, since is has, it's very important that people say whether they are having this problem in August or January. My hot-start issues in August were caused by a hot fuel-rail. Temp solution (as it were) was to spray it with cold water; long-term solution was a phenolic spacer for the intake manifold. I never had any problems in the winter.
 
Not sure why this got revived, but, since is has, it's very important that people say whether they are having this problem in August or January. My hot-start issues in August were caused by a hot fuel-rail. Temp solution (as it were) was to spray it with cold water; long-term solution was a phenolic spacer for the intake manifold. I never had any problems in the winter.

Well I was going to say something about replying to an old thread but instead I change my mind and decided to help this time LOL

Sounds like you were having a vapor lock issues I know some of the first gen rx7 had that problem as well, due to the routing of the fuel line
 
Had this happen before, after replacing the starter and key tumbler (oddly enough) it seemed to work just fine.
Just noticed this necro thread...my bad.
 
Read that thread and see what things you have not done jet.

Have you test spark and fuel when is warm (when it doesn't start), You have to do a walk through all the components when you have the no start problem, that's the only way you will find out what's going on which at that time (no start) what ever parts that doesn't work will not supply current.

Test every parts when that happens and report the results.

EDIT

I just checked your statistics and why are you making another thread for the same thing?.

Why you always leave the threads with out responding and/or saying what you did?.

When you close a thread, you have to report back of what you did to fix your problem and report as resovled thread.

We were helping you on the other thread, we suggested you to test the Transistor, why you never report back that you changed it?.

You have to help us in order to help you.

You can do as many threads as you want, But If you want to bring the wiseman to look at your thread, it will not be happening like that, You are just going to get newbie replies.
 
ok I stored my newly aqquired 1996 awd tsi for the winter. I got it with a bad cam sensor and it was starting a little rough the past 2 times ive went to start it and let it run. Today when i went to start it i heard some nasty grinding and it attempted to turn over but died. When i went to start it again it would not start at all, just clicking by the starter and the clicks were slower than normal, still wont start. The battery had to be charged last time to start it so I obviously hooked a charger to it first and still nothing... Im scared I ####ed something up pretty bad in the head or worse the flywheel. Or could it be a bad battery and/or starter? Really could use ant info anyone has that could be helpful, as i do not want to start buying parts aimlessly and blowing what little cash i do have. PLease help! Thank you.
 
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