Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[luv2rallye]

Also make sure the fuel pressure isn't dropping out after sitting a while. Should stay for days.

 

[lilmiss4G63]

I'm having the same issue except mine is turning over just not starting and I can not figure out why . I just replaced battery and alternator but still no luck. Any ideas any body?

 

[captainapex]

Are you hearing a click or anything?

Have you checked all the fuses?

There is a faint click n yea the fuses r all intact.

 

[Calan]

There is a faint click n yea the fuses r all intact.

Measure the voltage on the line going to the starter while someone tries to turn it over, and see what it drops to. From the sound of it, you either have a battery that isn't putting out enough amperage to engage or turn the starter, or the starter is shot.

If the battery is new and the starter is a parts store replacement, I'd lean toward another bad starter. There may also be a dead short in your electrical system that is causing a continuous drain.

 

[Twinturbo120]

There is a faint click n yea the fuses r all intact.

Does the battery have any juice? The click is suppose to be a little louder. I know you said its new and all but still.

 

[talonxgirl]

Is anything else in the dash or steering wheel column not working properly? I just got my car back from the shop after having the same problem and it was a shorted out ignition switch. My dash lights went out a year ago, followed by the taillights and fog light, and finally two weeks ago it started to give me problems starting. Checked everything with a multimeter thing and everything checked out normal so I took it in and got it back same day. Has it ever been hard to start where you had to use more force than two fingers to crank it? Because I use to have to really be forceful with the key where it almost bent to get a start and now it starts so easy I barely have to touch it.

There is a faint click n yea the fuses r all intact.

Is it an almost inaudible click- click-click?

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Did you do what u suggested? I hope I didn't write that for. Nothing.

 

[Chucky_D]

Where did you get the ecu and how much did you end up giving?

Local guy, 200 for the ecu and a spark plug cover


Anyways,
Tested the ISC with a multi-meter and one coil ended up getting a reading that was half of normal resistance (honestly I have no idea how to read my multi-meter, its not digital ) the other coils all got the same reading as when the two ends of the meter touch.

So my idea now is that the culprit is either the o2 or the ISC..

 

[creese]

Here's what I have:

93 GSX
JDM 2.0l turbo 4g63
16G
Walbro 255 w/ install kit
Full 3" exhaust

Here's the issue:

Vehicle will not start.

What has been checked/verified:

Compression:
cyl1: 150
cyl2: 160
cyl3: 155
cyl4: 160

Fuel pressure:
38 PSI at rail at cranking, 35 PSI at rest
Known good resistor box
Known good Injectors (450cc)
Good regulator

Spark:
With spark tester, each cylinder tested at over 35,000 volts
New NGK BPR7ES plugs
Known good wires
Known good coil pack
Known good PTU

Electrical:
Tested 2 known good ECU's
Tested 2 known good MPI Relays
Brand new coolant temp sensor
Known good CAS
Swapped Engine harness for known good one

Timing:
Verified to be in time

Description:
After vehicle is brought into the shop and warmed up and after cranking for multiple hours, vehicle will begin to fire but not start. After continuing this it will eventually start. Once vehicle is running, you can turn it back off and it will fire up immediately. Once vehicle is left over night it will show same symptoms as before.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Those plugs aren't stock. Bpr6es11 is stock plugs. Can be helpful

 

[Tyeler18]

Can you verify your ECT reading via a scan tool? It sounds like you're flooding out. Your ECT may be new but it may be bad from the parts house or you have a wiring issue with it.

Also are you still running the factory fuel pressure solenoid?

 

[mebetter]

Vapor lock issues maybe?

 

[creese]

I can not verify with a scan tool. However, I have 4.7 volts at the ECT with ignition on. I have also verified that the resistance changes with temp change on the sensor. Also have checked resistance between wires at the sensor to the ECU connector and show normal resistance numbers.

I am also not running a fuel pressure solenoid.

 

[becuzGSX]

Ok so I got it to crank now but still no start. I have fuel but no spark what are some things I check and look for thanks.

 

[93laser1g]

so i replaced my little 13g with a 14b and after i got everything together i go to start the car and it cranks but does not start. i look for loose vaccum lines and wires but couldnt find anything. so i mess with my BISS screw and CAS and boom the car fires over, idles high so i turn the BISS back inward and adjust my CAS until the car idles at 750 rpm took the car for a short 5 mile ride and noticed that whenever the car runs for more then 30 seconds or so i get a CEL so i shut the car off and it starts right back up so im thinking okay it should be alrite maybe its throwing codes because of my emissions delete. so i park it over night and then next morning i go to start the car and it wont start. so i check for spark and i got spark in all 4 cylinders check for fuel getting to my injectors and its all good. getting spark and fuel. MAS is good do a compression test and got low results but definetly high enough to start. I can get the car to start if i begin to mess with the CAS and BISS. problem is i cannot get the car to start after it sits for a night. I dont know what it could be because all i did was replace the turbo and now the car keeps doing this to me. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[schalk35]

Why turn off the car when the CEL comes on? Why not just read the code. You can make your own OBD1 code reader for like 5 dollars. I would try to read the code for sure to figure out what is going on. Also check your ECU too.

 

[93laser1g]

Why turn off the car when the CEL comes on? Why not just read the code. You can make your own OBD1 code reader for like 5 dollars. I would try to read the code for sure to figure out what is going on. Also check your ECU too.

I have checked my ecu and there is no leaks or scorch marks it dont smell burnt. I dont always shut the car off when the cel comes on. and even after i shut it down it starts right back up. the only time it wont start is if i leave it sit over night

 

[stars]

Check the reading on the coolant temperature sensor, best do do it with a scanner or do a complete check of the sensor with your volt meter following each step within the F.S.M guidelines. Verify that the connector is plugged into the coolant temp. sensor. If the battery was disconnected or have had it set for awhile the E.C.U. relearn process must be done, there are certain parameters that must be followed. Pull those codes and post back what numbers they are. The codes are the first place to always start..... =)

 

[93laser1g]

Check the reading on the coolant temperature sensor, best do do it with a scanner or do a complete check of the sensor with your volt meter following each step within the F.S.M guidelines. Verify that the connector is plugged into the coolant temp. sensor. If the battery was disconnected or have had it set for awhile the E.C.U. relearn process must be done, there are certain parameters that must be followed. Pull those codes and post back what numbers they are. The codes are the first place to always start..... =)

coolant temperature senesor is attached to the thermostat correct?

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[stars]

Pull those codes at all costs. a shop charges $80.00 to pull codes and Autozone charges nothing at all to read the codes.

 

[93laser1g]

Pull those codes at all costs. a shop charges $80.00 to pull codes and Autozone charges nothing at all to read the codes.

autozone has shitty scanners but i think i can bring it to school we have snap on solus scan tools. hopefully i can bring it in. does anybody know where the coolant temp sensor is located?

 

[ChiTownHussla]

you have an AFPR to justify fuel pressure claims?

 

[stars]

coolant temperature senesor is attached to the thermostat correct?

Correct

The top sensor is for the E.C.U. and the bottom sensor goes to your gauge on the dash that reads coolant temperature. Sorry missed your question earlier...

 

[undefined0000]

Correct

The top sensor is for the E.C.U. and the bottom sensor goes to your gauge on the dash that reads coolant temperature. Sorry missed your question earlier...

I thought the VERY top one was for the A/C, then lower are 2 sensors, the one on the right being for the gauge and on the left is for the ECU