Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[creese]

No I don't have one, but it does almost seem like a fuel/flooding issue because after cranking for awhile I will pull the plugs and they are fuel soaked...

 

[stars]

I thought the VERY top one was for the A/C, then lower are 2 sensors, the one on the right being for the gauge and on the left is for the ECU

The A/C does not use the coolant sensor as a reference. You definitely need to know where this sensor is. Use the VFAQ to find your answer if you don't own a Factory Service Manual. Also would not hurt to check the sensor on the radiator itself, it is on the right side; opposite of the rad.drain plug.

 

[mitsumelgsx]

i traded for a 95 gsx with a 6 bolt swap and have had problems getting it started. i have to crank and crank to get it started once it fires over it will start fine if i shut it off and try starting again need help about to give up

 

[Bojangles465]

Coolant temp sensor is my guess, I just replaced mine and now it starts right up

 

[dsmcurse]

I would have to second the failed coolant temp sensor. The car has two coolant temp sensors. One just relays info to the factory water temp gauge so that you can see your water temp, the other coolant temp sensor sends info to the ECU. The ECU uses this info to make cold start up mode happen. With that info missing outa the ECU it makes the engine extreamley difficult to start.

 

[Numba1Stuna]

Update! Ok so I got the new pump in the mail, but before I installed it I wanted to make sure the current pump was receiving power so I hooked up a 6v-12v test light I had and nothing(pictured, were these two wires the right ones to test?)...

I remember that another possible culprit may be either the ECU or MPI, so I disconnected the ECU and opened her up. I didn't see anything I thought was blatantly bad, but wanted your guys opinion anyway. Also pictured is my MPI, does anyone have a good spare they would sell me, or a local that would bring his and swap for a second to see if it resolves it? Thanks in advance.

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[mitsumelgsx]

is the 91 temp sensor the same as the 95?

 

[93laser1g]

The A/C does not use the coolant sensor as a reference. You definitely need to know where this sensor is. Use the VFAQ to find your answer if you don't own a Factory Service Manual. Also would not hurt to check the sensor on the radiator itself, it is on the right side; opposite of the rad.drain plug.

thank you guys this was very helpful, I will post after I get it fixed. my coolant sensor has a wire disconnected from the plug so im crossing my fingers and praying

 

[Lou98GSX]

you shouldn't do that to the wire with your test light it will expose the wire and then it will start to corrode .you can unplug the connector and check at the terminal ends for power and ground .

 

[Numba1Stuna]

you shouldn't do that to the wire with your test light it will expose the wire and then it will start to corrode .you can unplug the connector and check at the terminal ends for power and ground .

I've got electrical tape and corrosion is the least of my worries at this point , but duly noted. What about the ECU, any thoughts on that? Also, is there a way to bypass the MPI just to test and see if that is bad? Thanks.

 

[travisgoldkuhl]

My car had the same problem as yours and it was a coolant sensor problem and now starts up every time

 

[Th3P3ach]

I'm having a like issue but I grounded my battery now car won't start any ideas

 

[subie_hunter]

Recently i built this car from a wrecked cars motor and tranny, so it was a roller i put a motor and tranny in. Used the wirig harness from the new car had no fuel no spark prob. I replaced the cam and crank sensor retimed the car and still nothing. I replaced the fuel pump relay and multi relay and engine fuse i got the fuel pump relay then working, but still no fuel or spark. When i hooked a diagnosis tool up it kept tellin me it couldnt find connect to make sure the key is open or on the on position which it was.Then hooked the scan tool to buddies evo it read with no prob. I noticed the wireing harness had been hacked up in a few spots so bought a new wiring harness reran everything back to battery the battery location so all electrical should is back to original. Now when i try to start the cars still no spark or fuel anyone have any suggestions. I hace three computers 95 and two 96s i have tried them all and they all have the same result nothin.So really lookin for suggestion on what else this could be.

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[1999DSM]

So a couple of weeks i started the car. Now it wont just start at all...

current engine is:

na 4g63.

1g cas with RRE adapter cable.

95 eprom ecu

EGR removed.

Rewires walbro 255 lph with fuel lab fpr.

MSD wires.

car started with the wires attached this way:

3-2-1-4

the thing is that now the car just wont start at all... Tried with 2 coil packs, compression test was fine, there is spark, there is fuel.

When the car started it wont idle by itself, if i let go off the foot from the pedal it will just stumble then die. Never had a chance to make it idle prorperly.

My profile is up to date.

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

[synthetek]

p0403 is EGR so your getting that because you have the EGR Removed. p0403 is EVAP, do you have emissions stuff removed? and p1105 is the fuel pressure solenoid, you can bypass it and hook the vacuum line directly from the manifold to the fpr but those codes are all emissions related stuff and shouldn't prevent your car from starting just make sure EGR, any other removed emissions stuff is blocked off correctly.

 

[1999DSM]

p0403 is EGR so your getting that because you have the EGR Removed. p0403 is EVAP, do you have emissions stuff removed? and p1105 is the fuel pressure solenoid, you can bypass it and hook the vacuum line directly from the manifold to the fpr but those codes are all emissions related stuff and shouldn't prevent your car from starting just make sure EGR, any other removed emissions stuff is blocked off correctly.

yeah, emissions were removed during the installation. We dont have emissions checks in my country.

Thanks

I guess im just missing new plugs for test but it was actually firing. not happening now.

 

[Eurogaps]

p0403 is EGR so your getting that because you have the EGR Removed. p0403 is EVAP, do you have emissions stuff removed? and p1105 is the fuel pressure solenoid, you can bypass it and hook the vacuum line directly from the manifold to the fpr but those codes are all emissions related stuff and shouldn't prevent your car from starting just make sure EGR, any other removed emissions stuff is blocked off correctly.

I agree with you, all the codes are emissions, in my experience it's basically, the engine must have to start
1.Spark
2.AIr (compression)
3.Fuel
right?

we have all of this and engine don´t start

emissions codes do not turn on the car? I think not

with a scanner tool i removed all codes and the car continue with the problem

 

[creese]

Bump, any ideas?

 

[n0de]

Has the car been sitting for a long period of time? month? bad gas? Far fetched but worth asking.

Really sounds like a coolant temp sensor issue but if you've replaced it then it should be fine, however are you able to test that the signal is getting from the engine bay to the ecu then report back findings?

Also please describe how healthy the motor sounded when you did get it to fire up, was there anything out of the ordinary?

Give up a backstory on the car, when did it last run and what did you change since it started asking this way.

 

[H@xtGSX]

You have a 255 with a "good" stock regulator? You are flooding it. You need an AFPR. A new 255 can blow out old 450s and an old stock FPR within about 10 seconds after installing it.... I know that from experience.

...but... It should still be lighting it off.... At least a little enough to make it sort of run.

 

[n0de]

You have a 255 with a "good" stock regulator? You are flooding it. You need an AFPR. A new 255 can blow out old 450s and an old stock FPR within about 10 seconds after installing it.... I know that from experience.

Damn, I didn't even catch that. Looks like he has the hotwire kit too so its blowing through as soon as he turns the key to on.

Get a aftermarket afpr, around $180

 

[creese]

I'm still going to need to adjust fuel pressure down when it's at factory pressure?

 

[Tyeler18]

Rather than going out and spending the money on an AFPR right away, remove the injector pig tails and spray some starting fluid into the throttle body elbow and try firing it up. That will allow you to determine if it is a fuel issue.

 

[Tsmith]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ele...-no-start-verified-big-4-a.html#post153151619

posted in electrical but i know newbie gets looked at more often