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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Did you do what u suggested? I hope I didn't write that for. Nothing.

ya the click is just the fuel pump priming and seeming "to pump fuel". i checked the clutch switch. it operates fine. when its pressed in, a click occurs (same one ive been saying) and when its not pressed in, its clear the click nor the fuel pump primes...freaking finals and everything are taking up my time. and i just wanna get this car ready for sale. this problem came so unexpectadly since everything was rechecked over and over for reliability....as for chitownhussla...i might be giving u a call this week if i cant seem to figure out the issue...my area code is 609
 
Alright, took elbow off and sprayed starter fluid in and she fired right up with the injectors disconnected. I know this confirms a fueling issue, but can you explain how it's flooding when I have factory spec fuel pressure?
 
Ordered everything I need from Ebay, got the MPI and ECU for a good deal, the fuel pump as well. Should have everything soon.
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Can one of you knowledgeable vets give me your opinion on the ECU pics I posted? Thanks.
 
Alright, took elbow off and sprayed starter fluid in and she fired right up with the injectors disconnected. I know this confirms a fueling issue, but can you explain how it's flooding when I have factory spec fuel pressure?

Because you ARE NOT running factory spec fuel pressure. 45 is high for a 2g, much less a 1g that should be running around 38 psi at idle with no vacuum. The factory fuel pressure regulator CANNOT hold back the pressure of a 255. Period.
 
I can burn the fuel off of the plugs and they come rather clean, which leads me to believe there isn't any oil burning. I have the stock fuel pump still so I'm going to toss that in tomorrow before I go about replacing other stuff
 
Ok... That's a good reference point to work from. The thing you have to deal with is that although that 255HP can enable you to make massive improvements to your motor's output, it has to be reigned in by a good fuel pressure regulator. The stock regulator is a piece of junk once you start pushing more fuel than a 190... And even with a 190, I personally wouldn't trust the stock regulator.
 
Well I dont know how to explain what happened, but here it goes - I was driving down the highway about 70 miles an hour, I started to notice a complete loss in power, the car started to slow down but was running fine.

All of a sudden I heard metal scraping, clanking and all other words and the car completely stalls, it sounded like it exploded honestly, a huge smoke cloud followed, and as I was stopped in the middle of the highway I looked and the underside of my downpipe was on fire, luckily that was it and it went out quickly.

I pulled the hood, noticed the oil cap was nowhere to be found( I JUST checked it yesterday, still havent found the answer to this) Pulled the timing cover, and noticed I have 1 tooth missing and 2 others close to shredding off on the belt.

Obviously the engine is trashed- I dont know what is wrong or where to even begin how to fix it - so If it is possible for anyone to give me some info on what I need to do-I'd appreciate it.
 
there was no oil on the underside of the hood, at all, not a drop.

Well if there oil in the engine then I would say the belt failed according to your description of it. When was the last time the belt was replace?
 
a complete loss in power, the car started to slow down but was running fine.
.

:confused:

ive had a tbelt fail (snap into peices from an angry water pump) at 70 mmph, cruise sontrol on, on I5 and the car was NOT running fine. it made some seriously bad sounds and ended up bending almost all my valves. turned out to be a blessing in disguise. rebuilt the engine my way, chec that t-belt
 
Holy double whammy. Did you check the oil level? Loss in oil pressure will cause a bunch of noise and gross issues. A jumped belt will do the same thing from the pistons hitting the valves. I suspect that loss in oil pressure caused the engine to seize and somehow causing something attached to the belt to seize too making it jump.

Fire on the underside of the downpipe... REALLY high EGTs maybe from running too lean?

Time to find a 4G63T.
 
Assuming the engine still has oil in it the oil cap loss is probably from something that let loose under the valve cover and took the cap out. Missing teeth, yeah you probably trashed the head. Pull the valve cover and have a look. If you have any damage it will be obvious. I've seen it before. Once we find the intial failure we can find out how extensive the damage is. I don't think the engine seized based on what you wrote. I think you just skipped a belt. When was it last replaced and by whom if you know?
 
Since the oil cap was just gone it got me thinking that maybe the metal clip that holds the oil cap on may have gotten loose and fell down in the head. All that holds it on is one small bolt. If the bolt got wedged into a valve spring it could have made it jump timing. Get the valve cover off and take a look.
 
Since the oil cap was just gone it got me thinking that maybe the metal clip that holds the oil cap on may have gotten loose and fell down in the head. All that holds it on is one small bolt. If the bolt got wedged into a valve spring it could have made it jump timing. Get the valve cover off and take a look.

Thats what I was thinking, because the noise was just rediculously loud, and then it honestly sounded like a bomb went off in my engine and there was a huge smoke cloud, and it stalled on its face in the middle of the highway, I didnt even have time to get off the road. I was in the center lane and got out to look at it and there was flames so I just backed up and called the fire department -

I took a road trip to OKC to Amarillo,Tx and back 2 days ago and it ran just fine, I went to work last night and boom, checked the hood - missing oil cap but no oil to be found anywhere. I checked the oil level - and NONE. I put 3 1/2 quarts in and it all leaked out rapidly.

The car has 190k miles on, and I have paperwork from a shop that did some work on it before I bought it at around 160k, timing belt was included. I'll be ripping everything I can apart and taking pictures-along with that paperwork and I'll see if you guys can help me determine what the hell is going on and what my options are, im thinking now would be a good time to just do a turbo swap... WOP WOP WOP
 
I don't suppose you could include in your post where the oil is leaking from?

your guess is as good as mine- I have no idea, I looked under it and above it and couldnt determine where it was leaking from- Im about to upload pictures with the VC off, as well as with the cams off

Pics
 

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I would put a ratchet on the crank and see if you can turn it. If you can't turn it then that engine is done, and you'll probably need to find a new block.
 
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