The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes i did that day. i was not using my common sense and realized that i didnt charge my battery. only jumped started it. so i basically hooked up jumper cables to another vehicle (jeep) and made sure that the black wire on the cable was on a ground source (i used one of the passenger side strut tower bolts) and red cable on positive terminal. The jeep had black on negative and red on positive. let the Jeep run on idle for 10-15 mins then turned my car on (friend disconnected the cables once the talon was running). ran the car for around 30 mins on 45-65mph roads to let the battery fully charge. that was my problem
 
Oh okay well good to hear. If you have problems with the alternator in the future you can do the GM saturn swap. They seem to be more durable, last longer and cheap to replace.
 
Alright to start off this is what happened....I've had this car for about 5 years now....On my way to work a while back it decided to die on me...well when it did everything came on wipers dash lights headlights rear wiper i mean everything came on. Then it just dies and won't start back up. It does turn and turn and turn but never kicking over at all. new alternator new batery new starter. just the whole system seemed like it purged then died. i do have idiot lights on and can't find anything wrong at all. the lights that are on include engine radiator battery airbag. i know why the airbag light is on i bumped into something i'm not worried about that light...but the engine light give me a ignition coil B malfuntion code. i've replaced the whole ignition systion except the ignition its self. the radiator light idk why its on. doesn't over heat its got coolant everything checks out fine but it stays on. battery light has been on since i bought the car and used to go off and on until my upper camshaft sensor got a short in it and had to replace it. i'm completely lost on where to start on figuring out the problem and/or problems. i've been told could be alternator could be the ECM idk....i'm lost ### help give me some ideas on where to go i really love my eclipse and don't want to sell it but i'm out of ideas. please help me get this thing back on the road :D
 
Ah the fun that you are about to have.:banghead: I currently just got done going through my 95 talons no stsrt problem and after replacing a few sensors I findout my ecu was bad.

First cover your basics. If you know how to that is already done if not http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html will help you on that.

Your issue is different than anything I have encountered or heard of. Keep me posted as I want to know as much info as I can to futher my knowledge with the 420a
 
to me sounds like when everything surged you shorted some things out. I would start with the ECU and troubleshoot that first. If thats good atleast you know you get to save a little bit of money and not buy another one..LOL. Also im already assuming that you've checked ALL your fuses. sounds like a pain...and yes it is...but thats the thing with electronics.
 
i have checked all my fuses and relays everything checks out...same thing with the sensors :( as i fear it leans to the ecu...ill check into it as others reply with more ideas maybe :banghead:
 
You might have a code that really has nothing to do with the starting of the car. I am showing IAC for the code.

Your car sounds like it has good compression, but is not firing.
Check for fuel&Spark. Then we will go from there.

Just noticed your RPM gauge is not moving either.

I do not know much about 2g's.

I do believe they have both a crank and cam sensor. More then likely one of these is your problem.
 
You might have a code that really has nothing to do with the starting of the car. I am showing IAC for the code.

Your car sounds like it has good compression, but is not firing.
Check for fuel&Spark. Then we will go from there.

Just noticed your RPM gauge is not moving either.

I do not know much about 2g's.

I do believe they have both a crank and cam sensor. More then likely one of these is your problem.

this is correct, i believe the easiest way to figure out a "no start" issue is to just check for the main things. Fuel, spark, and compression
 
i need help.. really strange.. -i moved from vegas to miami. needed a job. got a job, bought a 99 eclipse RS, everything worked great at the time. power windows, lights, dash lights, radio/cd player, ding noise on insert of key to ignition. fine. --i bought the car back in july 2012. 98xxx miles, all stock except for an aftermarket air intake already in place when bought.. fine. -after a month of listening to the radio, stationary, waiting to register my car, turning on the car to see if it still works, it did, i noticed the radio started cutting out after a while.. assumed i needed a new battery. took it to autozone for a free test. concluded it was bad. needed a new one. fine.. -yesterday, september 5th 2012, bought a new battery at goodyear, same type for mitsubishi, just newer. -i replaced the old battery with new one, cleaned the terminals, the latches for the terminals that connected with battery, fine. stuck key in ignition, everything worked great. radio back on, lights came back on. cool. --its now september 6th 2012.. 24hrs later, i get ready for school and head to the car. expecting to hear my baby turn on and cruise while jammin to my gangstarr cd.. only to find disappointment when i stick key into ignition... 6pm sept 6th 2012.. i turn the key to start, it clicks, then cuts off. hmm.. -second time, click, no power.. wtf? ..third time, click, no happiness. .okaaay?? -fourth time, not even a 'click' sound occurs.. 5th time until 11:36 pm sept 6th 2012 (current typing time) no click period.. no headlights with or without key in ignition, no power windows, locks, radio, ding noise, with key in ignition... guys, what happened to baby dalia? =( -_-
 
Hi guys,

Yesterday I came back from my friend place's and drove 40 mnutes without aby problem at all. When I was close home I did a little 3-4 pull. When I was in 4th gear...I felt the engine missfire a little bit for 2-3 seconds and then died. I pulled over to the side of the road and the car cranks without any problems but won't start. I can still hear my fuel pump when I turn the key to on. Never had any problems like this before and car always ran great

Please help a fellow out :(

this is my car

Engine:

6 bolt engine complety rebuild competitive automobile
All the seals have been changed with oem
Wiseco pistons
Eagle rods
Cometic Headgasket
Magnus intake manifold
Balanced and blue printed
Kevlar timing belt
Balance shaft elimination kit
Brian Crower Stage 2 cams 272
Brian Crower Springs and Retainers
1mm Oversized valves
Port and polish
1000cc injectors
AEM Fuel Rail
Walbro 255 fuel pump
AEM FPR
Dual Core Rad with 2 slimfans

Turbo Set up:

DNP Exhaust manifold
Garrett GT35
Tial 44mm wastegate
Godzilla BOV
Snow Performance stage 2 water/meth injection
Megan Racing 02 housing
full 3 inch exhaust
Hallman Evolution RX Boost Controller
Big FMIC
2.5 inches piping all around

Transmission:

Complety rebuild by Magnus
Spec Stage 3 clutch
ACT Streetlite flywheel

Engine Management:

Dynatek Arc 2
AEM ECU
AEM Wideband
 
Get your aem book out and look for a no start diagnosis procedure. I just got a car that had one, po removed prior to me getting the car. I had to rewire a couple of things to reuse the factory ecm. So I'm not sure you can use the standard methods used to obtain the dtc....diagnostic trouble code. You sure have a lot of goodies there, could be a loose cas plug.
 
Check the 2 pin connector on the lower thermostat housing to ensure wires are in good shape and making a good connection. If you have a spark tester use it. If your getting spark your not getting fuel vice verse, go from there. Our cars are easy to figure out.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top