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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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Replaced alternator...no dice. The old alternator was definitely dead ### i got it tested at autozone as well as the new one
 
The IAC/ISC (Idle Speed Control) servo/stepper motor has nothing to do with the initial start up of the engine. It just regulates & controls the idle for the loads put on the engine. The CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) tells the ecu what temp the coolant/engine is so the ecu can adjust fuel trim parameters for the temp. USUALLY when a CTS goes bad, it gets stuck on cold so cold starts are no problem, but after the engine is at normal operating temp & it is shut off & then tried to be restarted, it wont start because the ecu is thinking the engine is cold & it is adjusting the fuel trims for a cold engine not a warm one. I've never seen a CTS get stuck reading a warm temp, like 190, but there's always a first time for everything. However since you just messed with the TB, the most likely cause of your problem is there. Make sure the TPS is adjusted right, I know on the 1g's is has to be about half a volt when in the closed position. & also on the 1g's the IPS (Idle Position Sensor), which is basically just a simple open/closed switch, will cause the engine to not start as well. This sensor just tells the ecu whether the throttle plate is open or closed & the ecu adjusts the fuel trims accordingly. For example, if this sensor is telling the ecu that the throttle is open when its actually closed, it wont start. & if the TPS isn't adjusted right, it wont start. But after reading that you dont have your MAF sensor hooked up, well that's a major problem as well. That sensor is extremely important & will cause the vehicle not to start as well... Hope this helps.
 
WHAT, Your MAF isn't connected and your wondering why your car isn't starting? Your MAF is a VERY important piece of your car. It determines IF your car is going to start and how much fuel you need. My MAF was out when I bought the car, and I had it replaced because the car would die when starting and idling. That fixed the issue. You need to find a way to connect your MAF that is why your car is not starting cold. The car thinks there is no air being brought into the engine.
 
Hello!

I have a 98 GST (7 bolt) and a few days ago I tried to start the car after changing the spark plugs, but the only things that happened were loud metallic noises, as if the engine were to disassemble (laughs).
I checked if the battery was good and tried to start again, same noise and CEL code P0345 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction A). Changed the spark plugs back, reseted the CEL but still the same thing.

A few days before, the car had blown a fuse twice (20A engine fuse, a PITA to find here) after a short circuit in the cigarette lighter (only the second time I realized the short circuit). Do not know if it would have some connection.


I kindly ask for your help to solve this problem, since it is very difficult to have mechanical support (for imports) in the state where I live.

Oh, and sorry for my bad English, English is not my first language (portuguese is), as I live in Brazil.

Thanks!

Added pictures of the starter at post #6!
Added pictures of the flywheel at post #7! Loose starter ring (Fidanza FW)
 
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This couple be a couple of things but check for the basics, a stripped wire to the camshaft sensor and crank sensor. The cam or crank sensor might be damaged, so check for continuity. Seems like your cam sensor took a crap on you though. Oh and make sure you gapped the plugs correctly which is 0.28
 
Have you removed the cam angle sensor at all?

Nope, should i?

There's a triangle plate bolted at the side of the Cam Angle Sensor (If I'm correct it's where a 1g Cam Angle Sensor would be located), should I open it to see anything uncommon there?

I'm really a newbie at this, but I will do my best to try to learn from you guys.

This couple be a couple of things but check for the basics, a stripped wire to the camshaft sensor and crank sensor. The cam or crank sensor might be damaged, so check for continuity. Seems like your cam sensor took a crap on you though. Oh and make sure you gapped the plugs correctly which is 0.28

The Crank sensor in the 2gb (98 GST) is located at the same spot as the 2ga (95 GST)? I will check for the sensors tomorrow morning! :thumb:


The gap is ok. Would any of those sensors malfunction cause these noises while trying to start?

Thank you!
 
My 1g has been playing up (even more than usual). The other day it overheated (not by super amounts up to 210). Since then, it has been running extremely badly. It takes a lot of cranking to start, and when it does it runs extremely lean while driving and sputters like it isn't getting enough fuel. It's got a new pump, relatively new fuel filter >1000 miles, and I really don't know what could be wrong with it. I remember hearing somewhere that the temp sensor for the ECU could cause it to be hard to start and to run shitty? It also surges a load at idle too but it always has. Really need help on this.. Only got a week before school to get it all fixed up!! Thanks.
 
When you say overheat, the first thing that pops into my head is blown headgasket....especially with your description on how its running.
 
How do you know its running lean? Does it have a wideband? The coolant temp can cause the issues you described, but its do to the fact that a bad temp sensor makes the car run pig rich. Having your ignition timing too retarded or your timing belt not on right and being a tooth or so retarded can make it run that way as well.
 
How do you know its running lean? Does it have a wideband? The coolant temp can cause the issues you described, but its do to the fact that a bad temp sensor makes the car run pig rich. Having your ignition timing too retarded or your timing belt not on right and being a tooth or so retarded can make it run that way as well.

Well said
 
There is no need to remove it unless it is damaged, I was asking because there is a part that goes bolted to the intake cam so that the sensor can read the cam angle and it should be installed a certain way for it to work properly, I'm not tying to confuse you it's just that I've had someone forget to bolt the part on the cam and it was just bouncing around and the car wouldn't start. The 2ga has the cam angle sensor located under the intake cam gear and the 2gb has it in the same location as a 1g.
 
Here we go again, so I just finished my clutch, timing belt and my car has ran great for the last day but now I'm running into some problems. First I went to start my car after not driving for a few hours and it started right up but my new serpentine belt was sqeaking so loud I poped the hood to check it out (yes it has good tension). All of a sudden the car dies as I'm looking at the belt, I restart it and it runs for a few secs and I notice it starts to sputter out and the aem wb reads that its leaning out so I cut it off. After that it would start just crank, somtimes it start for a sec but I noticed as I crank the knock/oem boost gauge raises but that could be normal idk, I don't log any knock while its running though. I also don't have any dtc codes...I'm lost any ideas? Thanks!

After some more research I'm suspecting the crank or cam angle sensor but have yet to get a code. Anyone know how I can test them? Thnaks again
 
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The timing is good. There could be so many things causing it.. I have a wideband, however, I also have a crack in my exhaust manifold along a weld which (I assume) would show lean while conditions on the piston would not be lean? You were right about the coolant temp sensor - I replaced it and it's still running badly. I guess I am going to make BLT up and see from there, but this is so frustrating! Thanks for the help. ... I also guess that it could be the ECU throwing way too much fuel to compensate which would be too much to tune out with the SAFC (yeah, I know I shouldn't run one) - could this be the problem?? Thanks.
 
Thanks for the ideas, I tried a new cps sensor today and came up dry, I needed a new one anyways as mine had a crack and was glued for cheap insurance (ghetto I know LOL). I removed the rear seats and I can hear the pump coming on as I crank but ill have to dig in and check it all out. Anyhow ill repot back as soon as I get any leads, thanks everyone!

update:
So i thought i would pull the fuel pump and check out that sock... well its bronze but not gunked up. There a few things that stood out, first it looks like there is only a quarter inch of gas in the gas pickup (maybe a bit more) though the gauge reads quarter tank, there was something like a rubber sleeve that had torn in half sitting in the gas pickup that im guessing was wrapped around the walbro at some point. I would feel dumb but be thrilled if it were that i ran out of gas due to a bad gauge but we will see.

Final update:
I'm chalking this one up to a fualty gas gauge, put 40$ gas in and it fired up....now my gauge says I'm deep into E LOL. Thanks to everyone that helped!
 
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Well the problem i had was so simple i feel retarded even telling you what was the reason...my battery wasnt charged all the way so i would jump it, run it for a few mins then turn it off. the problem happened a few times. i fully charged my car and its been fine since. basically, connect the jumper cables and make sure the the negative(black) cable is on a ground source away from the battery of the car you are charging. keep the other vehicle running for 10-15 mins. after that i drove my car for about 30 mins and that solved my problem. but another common problem is the crank angle sensor (CAS) going bad. also try to disconnect the nuetral safety switch.
 
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