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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I understand what you mean but how do I test that...

Use a noid light for injector pulse. Plug noid light into injector plug and crank engine, light should pulse. I'm sure you have a fuel pressure gauge so you're good there. Inline spark tester is nice but if you don't have one, put a spark plug in the end of the plug wires and hold near ground or just hold the end of the plug wire while a buddy cranks the engine, you should feel a nice jolt (dont do that if you have a heart condition LOL) lastly you will need a compression gauge to check compression.
 
Sounds similar to what happened when my aem dropped one of the coil drivers. Check to see if you lost spark on one of the coils (2 cylinders). The ecu gives an on/off signal to the power transistor aka ignitor and it is that on/off signal that fires the coils. If one of your coils is not firing you will have no spark on either cylinders 1 and 4, or 2 and 3 because those respective cylinders fire on the same coil.
 
Sounds similar to what happened when my aem dropped one of the coil drivers. Check to see if you lost spark on one of the coils (2 cylinders). The ecu gives an on/off signal to the power transistor aka ignitor and it is that on/off signal that fires the coils. If one of your coils is not firing you will have no spark on either cylinders 1 and 4, or 2 and 3 because those respective cylinders fire on the same coil.

how did you change the coil drivers?

Someone just told me

With the car cranking over, have someone pull the coil plugs one at a time and look for sparks...

Is this right?
 
If you have a timing light use it, its also an indicator of spark. If you pull them do it one by one. focus on 1 thing at a time, see if you have spark before anything else. If you start changing too many things at once you might find your self back tracking on what you did...
 
Yes it will work. If the coils are functioning, you will see and hear an electrical arc as you remove each wire while someone is cranking the engine.

ok thanks ill do it that way...dont want to die

here is what ill do

ill check the coil with with method
after ill check wire and plugs via the other method (sparks sitting on valve cover)

if I have sparks...I'll look into fuel but when I turn my car to on I get my fuel pressure since I'm reading it on my FPR
 
ok thanks ill do it that way...dont want to die

here is what ill do

ill check the coil with with method
after ill check wire and plugs via the other method (sparks sitting on valve cover)

if I have sparks...I'll look into fuel but when I turn my car to on I get my fuel pressure since I'm reading it on my FPR

Remember to check injector pulse if all is well with ignition
 
how did you change the coil drivers?

There are actually two extra coil drivers that aren't being used, so I configured it to use one of the other coil drivers. Without getting too far ahead of ourselves we'll just leave it at that for now. It is pretty tricky to get everything set up right and I'd have to think about it to remember exactly what I did.
 
ok well...I unplug the battery for 30 minutes and replug. The car started but died. Then it stopped cranking. I still cranks of I give her a bit of time off

I looked and my power steering leaked ALL over my alternator

could this cause my problem?
 
ok well...I unplug the battery for 30 minutes and replug. The car started but died. Then it stopped cranking. I still cranks of I give her a bit of time off

I looked and my power steering leaked ALL over my alternator

could this cause my problem?

Yeah, it would be nice to get a jump and then see if you can get it to run. If you disconnect the jumper cables and then it dies, you most likely have a bad alternator. You should be seeing 13.5-14.8 volts at the battery with the engine running on a good charging system. If you don't have at least 13.5 volts your alternator is junk. 12.xx volts won't cut it.:toobad:
 
yep well Ill spray the shit out of my alternator with electrical part cleaner and let it dry

after that I'll boost it with my other car and see what will happen
 
ye but maybe I fried something in the alternator...all my power steering leaked over it yesterday and the problem started right after that.
 
Take the battery out of your other car and put it in the dsm. If it runs then sure check your alternator. But I don't think that is your problem if it was cranking the way it should.
 
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