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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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Do you have a coolant temp sensor in that car, how about compression, and spark? Sounds like you may have flooded the injectors, how does the ecu look?
 
Well everyone thank you very much for all your help, I figured out what it was, I guess when i started the car and it was running on 3 cylinders from the shorting spark plug wire, my timing belt (which I just did 300Kms ago, JUMPED 3 teeth on the crank :(. I'm almost posative my engine is still fine as it turns over fine. I'm a little confused as too how the T-belt Jumped tho? I put it on VERY tight, and every was too spec. What could have possibly made the T-belt Jump? Just from running on 3 cylinders for 20seconds??? GRR! I've already got the timing belt off and ready to go back on again.. Just waiting for my helping hand to come hold the cam in place again.. Good greif.. Wish my engine luck everyone. I will cry if the motor is screwed.. I only got 300KM out of the engine and timing belt so far.. It should not have jumped.. it was on there SO tight.

Hey guys, I just got timing done again LOL. And still no start.. My spark plugs keep getting soaked and the pistons, I still dont even know how the timing belt jumped after 350km's. anyways, i've tried 4-1-2-3 Firing order, and 3-2-1-4 neither start. So I ran the Codes again, And it came up with P0443 and p0403, Both meaning EGR valve, I removed all my emission stuff, I have no canister, i just have a looped EGR valve. and i've never had a problem? my CEL light has always be on which im assume is the EGR valve. I'm so confused. I thought re doing my timing belt would make the car start, But it didn't, Even if one of the pistons had colidded, it would still start on 2-3 cylinders. But i can turn the motor over by hand i hear nothing out of the norm.. It just keeps flooding itself. DSM God's i need your assistance!!! PLEASE HELP ME!

SOLVED Guys. Engine is toast from timing belt slipping after only 350 kilometers. i could cry. CRX time i guess :(
 
Yeah, car does have a coolant temp sensor. Wired and plugged in correctly. Car was running perfectly before. Had spark, fuel and compression. It's just getting flooded so it's not allowing it to start up. What can cause this to happen? Aside from it being the injectors? ( already tried 2 different known working injectors/fuel rails)
 
Well the basics would be Fuel, Spark, Compression, and Timing (with the given Air). If you have verified that you are getting Spark and fuel, check compression and timing to be safe. But if you think that you are pig rich, let it sit for a bit with the plugs loose or out with a rag covering the holes to let them air out a bit. dry or replace the plugs to make sure you have strong spark and see if it starts.
 
That's what I've went ahead and did, I pulled the plugs out ( brand new just replaced as the old ones were in rough shape ), and letting em sit till Monday to see if anything changes.

I'll keep you guys posted.
 
Okay, here is my status: I took the fuel regulator apart and cleaned the fitting. The internal spring was good (still had plenty of tention when the compressed). Did not see anything else preventing the regulator to hold pressure. I took the alternator out and had AutoZone test it. The alternator passed twice on their device; the dude said may be loose belt (doubt it) or cables could have a break in it (possible, old wiring). When I get some time, I am going to take out every single wire and replace it. Except the ones that are connected to the computer since Mitsubishi does not make the harness nor has a contract with a vendor to make that harness. . . yea, I checked. What I don't understand is how can some companies have pig-tails for our computers. . . but that is another topic; I just want to get my car running again.
 
Yea, I thought that was the case but I sent it back to AEM and they said it passed all their tests. I switched it with my modded ECU and it still didn't start. I guess my next step is to test the wiring going to the alternator.

Just checked the cables going to and from the alternator and everything checks out . . . good. I wish I could find something wrong then I know what to fix. Does anyone else have any suggestions?
 
Hello all.
Back after a long time of nothing I finally started working on my car again a couple weeks ago. So this is the big update and a new problem.

We found what was causing the no spark issue: the rear heated oxygen sensor was bad and was shorting out the common power wire that feeds the coils, injectors and sensors. Took care of that and now I have the correct steady voltages everywhere and good spark on all plugs.

But the car still wouldn't sputter on cranking. So we checking other things while cranking and figured out what the weird pooting sound it would make was. The cylinders are exhausting out the intake manifold.

We took the valve cover off to watch the cams and valves while cranking slowly with a remote switch and ratchet on the crank. It looks like the timing must be off because it seems the valves were opening and closing at the wrong times during the stroke so that it will poot air out the intake manifold.

So we thought the timing must be off somewhere, but the marks you can see on the cam gears that you can see through the peep window line up. So we thought maybe it was off on the crankshaft end. So after a lot of fighting the engine to get the to the crank pulley and get it to where we can get the cover and pulley out, and a couple trips to hardware stores for pullers and bolts, I finally got the dang crank pulley off. So Par for the course: the crankshaft marks line up with the cam shaft marks just fine...

Well I'm once again stuck and clueless so I'm looking for help here again. We seemed so close to getting it going I just want to be able to drive it.

So any ideas on what would cause it to be blowing out the intake? How can I tell if the timing is really correct? What should I try next?

Thanks guys
 
luv2rallye, although I checked the fuel pressure regulator, I was able to disconnect the hose to the regulator after the pump primed to pressure. There was no spray of fuel. . . so I guess I will be buying another regulator. <All> By the way, when I turn my CAS all the way advanced or retard, my ECU does not pick up any ignition timing. When I keep it in the middle and crank the engine, it registers between 25 - 19 advanced. I do not know if this is normal because I have not paid any attention to it before. I guess right now I am reaching for anything; when the car broke down on me, I didn't change the timing so...
 
so I did some more work trying to figure out what's going on with the car last night. I found a page that showed where all the parts should be to actually be in time. So I was looking my camshafts over again and it looked like this:

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so even though the cam gear marks lined up, the shaft looked about 90 degrees off. So i removed the belt tensioner and the gear just slid off, it looks like this:

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The end of the cam shaft looks like that too. I know it's blurry (phone cam) but the dowel pin had broken off and been ground down between the cam and gear so there's a shiny ring of pulverized metal there.

So when I get another minute eventually I'll be figuring out how to fix it up
 

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So i do couple pulls on highway nothing serious and then i notice that the car is smoking like cheech and chong frome exhaust. I pull into parking and car shutts off and now wont start. I look at tail pipe and its filled with oil or IDK. Recently i put in a 14b and boost controller doing 14psi. The car had been acting weird recently but now its in the middle of nowhere and left me a 2 hour walk homeROFL Could it be a blown head? or a blown turbo? I NEED CAR ASAP
 
What color smoke was it blowing? White, blue, or black?

White? You are burning coolant. If so, find my guess is you popped the head gasket since you were doing some pulls. I would do a compression test and see if you have any dead cylinders. Or, pop off the radiator cap, crank the engine, and see if you have coolant shoot out of the radiator. That will let you know it's the head gasket as well.

Blue? You are burning oil. Could have smoked the rings, but considering you said that it happened over just a couple of pulls I doubt it. But, once again, I would do a compression test to see where you're at.

Black? You are running rich and burning too much fuel. Could be as simple as a intercooler hose came apart. I would say do a Boost Leak Test and fix any issues that you see arise.

Did the car lose any power once you realised it was smoking? Or did it still feel normal?

And when you say the car was acting weird recently, what was it doing? It would help quite a bit to know.
 
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