Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Kalabalik1]

I just read this entire thread (which took forever thanks to the ramblings) and not once did I see you mention anything about NT or Hyundai injectors. Why in the hell you would expect NT injectors to work in a turbo car is beyond me, it's extremely basic knowledge that turbo engines require more fuel. How it's the forums fault that you secretly swapped in ~50% smaller injectors is also a mystery. I would suggest doing a LOT more research before going any further with the car.

Nice answer. Thanks.
Im sure i wrote in in some of my threads with both the non turbo injectors and the Hyndai injectors. Maby not here but sure on some of my 5 other threads about this car.
Iv'e made tons of research now on the car and am basically expert on my DSM now.


I've swapped the head from another one from the junkyard and put in original injectors. Started right up but still problems, it overheats after running for a while.
Now i bought another head that is going for rebuild by professionals, changing valve guides, fixing the seats and all that needs to be done to make it perfect.
A four layer MLS Nippon head gasket is on the way along with a set of ARP studs.
Now it's for real. I finally learned.
Found it cheap on ebay.
Will come up with results when it starts up again. =O)

All these mistakes and people here that "knows it all" really thought me ALOT about nothing AND everything.
So there is some good in these forums after all but believe me alot of people on forums are talking bullshit.

Trust your local 60 years old / or above mechanic that has worked with cars for at least 30 years. They are the only ones who REALLY knows how basically all car works. And really know how to fix thing that can hold for years and years.
Imagine, they had alot of testing years with thousands of different cars.
My money goes to those people because I really learn what I need the RIGHT way. =O)
Thanks to everybody that helped me really..

Sincerely Alex

 

[Jon91TSi]

Nice answer. Thanks.
Im sure i wrote in in some of my threads with both the non turbo injectors and the Hyndai injectors. Maby not here but sure on some of my 5 other threads about this car.
Iv'e made tons of research now on the car and am basically expert on my DSM now.


I've swapped the head from another one from the junkyard and put in original injectors. Started right up but still problems, it overheats after running for a while.
Now i bought another head that is going for rebuild by professionals, changing valve guides, fixing the seats and all that needs to be done to make it perfect.
A four layer MLS Nippon head gasket is on the way along with a set of ARP studs.
Now it's for real. I finally learned.
Found it cheap on ebay.
Will come up with results when it starts up again. =O)

All these mistakes and people here that "knows it all" really thought me ALOT about nothing AND everything.
So there is some good in these forums after all but believe me alot of people on forums are talking bullshit.

Trust your local 60 years old / or above mechanic that has worked with cars for at least 30 years. They are the only ones who REALLY knows how basically all car works. And really know how to fix thing that can hold for years and years.
Imagine, they had alot of testing years with thousands of different cars.
My money goes to those people because I really learn what I need the RIGHT way. =O)
Thanks to everybody that helped me really..

Sincerely Alex

Reading does not equal expert, . You just contradicted yourself. How do you think mechanics with +/- 30 years if exoerience came to become experts, by reading? Not trying to be rude, but you are far from an expert with your DSM, or any other for that matter. Also, by sayiing this forum sucks you pretty much shot yourself in the foot. I wouldn't expect any useful help moving forward after making those sort of remarks.

 

[gofast63]

Thats fried!

 

[gofast63]

I havent heard this one yet. I bet it has somthing to do with your key tumbler, It has to be an electrical issue. Check your battery voltage went left in the sun. When its left in the sun does anything come on when you turn the key???

-Gary

 

[f0rcefed4]

I have heard of this! check your ecu! I know it sounds crazy but your ecu caps may be leaking when its hot the stuff that leaks out of them gets all over the ecu board and causes a no start condition!

 

[pauleyman]

ECU doesn't control cranking. OP said it doesn't even crank. I'd start at the ignition switch, check voltages in the starter circuit. You sure it's the cabin or the whole car? Underhood gets hot too in the sun. I'm still leaning towards inside switches etc. does it have an aftermarket alarm etc? That could be an issue.

 

[ktgurl87]

I've heard some crazy mess happening with a faulty temp sensor. Just throwing it out there. Weirder things have happened in the world of dsms :/

 

[WES_393]

I agree that it's an electrical problem. Heat can make weak electrical components work intermittently. I would look at the ignition switch first.

 

[bsbllfit7]

did you try the fuel pressure solenoid removal, also i would look into getting an egr blockoff plate and deleting all the unnecessary vacuum lines.

 

[Spyderman7]

I have had sililar problems like yours in the past with many dsm's and it was either the Temp sensor on water neck or the CAS.

 

[Laggg]

I had the same issue with my dsm. Disconnect the ect sensor wire, see if it starts. If so you need a new ect

 

[upgrading_86]

Might sound dumb but had the same problem and it ended up being my timing. After a while it stop starting but if you heard the ecu clicking and saw it burnt out hope replacing it solves your problem I was told to keep a spare

 

[serrilion]

Ya sounds like an ECU, but a car needs 3 things to run. Fuel, Spark and Air. After starting it have u pulled a plug to check it for fuel? if its bone dry u have a fuel problem, if its soaked you have a spark problem... Or sounds like in your case an ECU problem... Just some idea's to help you trouble shoot.. Also do you have a main relay? Some cars COUGH* hondas Cough* blow them all the time and the car will not start

 

[95eclispe]

i would look into replacing your ecu. if it has burn marks something def went out in there. once you replace that if you still have the same problem its your timing most likely. I had the same problem and would get crank but no start. I checked all my fuel and ignition components and nothing. i tried starter fuel and it turned over but died after a second. If you look at your cam gears use window chalk or something to align the two gears. try starting your car and see if they are still aligned. if they are off your timing is off. you can tell how many teeth its off by too. (would also check your crank& cam snesors while you do this and make sure they are aligned properly and working) would suck if you wasted all that money to know your crank sensor is bad which you can test with a meter. try some of these things and get back to me.

 

[pointblank9957]

my 98 Spyder actually does this too.... i turn the key, all the lights come on, but it wont crank over, i hear a click and the injectors pushing fuel in though.. it is really irritating, i need the car for saturday for work... i have no valet switch that i can see.. but it does have a factory alarm, i think the PCM thinks the car was stoled and the immobilizer kicked in. as soon as i get it fixed, i pulled the Alarm fuse because its completely useless here.

 

[95eclispe]

i know this sounds dumb but make sure your terminals are fully tightened on to the posts and you have ground top the battery. maybe something came loose and would explain why the lights come on but get no crank. I had a similar problem and i cranked down on my negative and terminals and it fixed the problem

 

[williamsoa]

I am stumped beyond belief with this problem. My GSX topped running and I cannot find the cause. A few months ago I noticed the car was having electrical problems such as the charge warning light would start to glow then go away. I was concerned that my alternator was going bad so I the following day I started the car and disconnected the battery and the car ran fine. So I dismissed that symptom. A few weeks after that I drove the car to work; I turned off the car then tried to start the car and nothing. After I got off of work, I started the car (it took about two tries) the car started and I drove home. Nothing out of the ordinary seemed wrong with the car; spark, fuel, air, it all looked fine. As a precaution I tested the power transistor, coils, and wires, they were all within specs. The last time I tried to drive it, the car all the sudden started to lose fuel pressure. Since I have an aftermarket pump with an override switch, I switched the pump on and off for about a mile trying to make it back home. While I was switching the pump on and off, it only temporarily brought the fuel pressure back up; I left the pump on then the pressure would drop. I had to cycle the pump on and off because the pressure would drop after a few minutes of the pump being manually on; it would also drop after turning the pump switch off.
I have tested just about the entire electrical system and replaced all old parts; here is the grocery list:
1. tested the coils, power transistor, wires, and wiring harness (stock coils) - good
2. tested the injectors, and wiring harness – good
3. tested MPI relay – good
4. replaced CAS
5. replaced IAC
6. tested the injector resistor – good
7. tested the wiring harness from the ECU (AEM) to the injectors, MPI relay, coils – good
8. Did not change any configuration to the ECU; sent the ECU back to AEM and it tested good
9. replaced the fuel pump
10. checked continuity of the ECU harness to the injectors, coil, and pump – good

I have run out of things to check or replace. One thing the car does, when I crank the car for about 15sec it will start then a few seconds later it will die. I am all out of ideas. Any help you all can provide is more than welcome.

 

[98DiamondStar]

What are you running for a MAF/MAS

 

[luv2rallye]

Check if your fuel pressure regulator is shot (not holding pressure).

 

[williamsoa]

I am running speed density. The fuel pressure does drop to zero after the pump primes. Is there a way to check, I have an aeromotive regulator. I can't remember the model but it has a -10an inlet and a -6an return. I will hit the website to check. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I will let you know what I find.

 

[jcastello214]

I would say check you alternator. Ive seen a lot of weird things happen from alternators going bad. I put in an alternator from my buddy's DSM which is a manual and my auto didnt run almost at all. Put in another alternator from an auto from a junkyard and no problems at all.

 

[jmartinez1228]

I would say check you alternator. Ive seen a lot of weird things happen from alternators going bad. I put in an alternator from my buddy's DSM which is a manual and my auto didnt run almost at all. Put in another alternator from an auto from a junkyard and no problems at all.

x2 my alternator wasn't completely dead but I was getting weird electrical issues, sometimes it would fix itself by turning the car off and back on. Swapping the alternator fixed the issue.

 

[supermario300hp]

X3 on the alternator. If you have the money go oem. Autozone alts blow. But if your trying to save some cash. Go to the parts store and grab up a Galant alt.

 

[williamsoa]

I have to admit, this is my 3X Autozone alternator. I will add that to my list. 9-out-10 I will go to OEM; AZ is not cutting it if my alternator is bad.

 

[f0rcefed4]

well I did have a no start condition similar the car wouldn't start at times, especially once hot, and I would get a buzzing from the ecu area, after checking everything 10 times over it ended being the starter...

I ended up looking past the starter assuming it was a new (reman) i had just bought it! low and behold it was the starter after all