Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[frankenstientsi]

I sent him a PM and asked what he thought. Thanks for all your help.

 

[NHerron]

Let me know what he thinks if you don't mind, I'm interested. It would also help anyone in the future with the same issue

 

[frankenstientsi]

I will don't worry bout that one.

 

[a2tjhb]

RIGHT ON!!!! thats just what i needed thanks alot im going to try tomorrow and ill post how it turns out with valves i could still use advice on a way to test them??

 

[luv2rallye]

Fuel pump sometimes normally kicks on for a second when ECU sees a glitch from CAS or CPS.

The voltage measurement of the CPS (or CAS) must be done with it connected and the engine cranking or idling. When engine is stopped the reading is meaningless since the CPS sensor blade can be anywhere (so it's usually 0 or 5v then).

With 0.17v with engine cranking, it sounds to me like your CPS is bad.

Note: I should have said just the 95-96 CAS (not also CPS) may have slightly different voltage range since it uses a different type of sensor than the 97-99. I'll correct it.

 

[95eclispe]

ok guys just an update: I did swap out the fuel pump and after putting in a new one it started right up! problem solved!

 

[spyderdrifter]

Hmmm.... what about automatic/manual? That's the only other thing I can think of that could be different between the two. But I've never owned an automatic DSM so I could be wrong on that. Just an idea.

 

[bryanwheat]

Maje sure that you have the plugs connected on the steering column. You can leave the dash harness un hooked but the car will still start and run, but if you don't have the plug hooked up to the ignition switch the car will not start.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Hmmm.... what about automatic/manual? That's the only other thing I can think of that could be different between the two. But I've never owned an automatic DSM so I could be wrong on that. Just an idea.

I have swapped a manual dash into an auto and everything functioned properly.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/379111-2g-dash-removal-instructions.html

Looking at this thread, it appears all connections to the mirror/cruize/foglight bezel are white.

But I think the black one connects to the dash.

Almost done.

There are 2 connectors behind where the radio sat in a row of 4 that need to be removed. The 2 are the 2 furthest to the driver side and are a long white connector and a long black connector. Disconnect them both.

The 2 connectors are in the back and to the left of the picture. Excuse the mess and the wires were properly cleaned up before re installation.

 

[95eclispe]

If you have the time i would suggest trying the old dash and try starting the car. If it doesn't start something was connected that's not connected now. i would make sure your fuse box is getting power and all your connections behind the steering column are connected as well. Maybe you disconnected something in the process and didnt notice so maybe try looking for loose or anything that seems unhooked besides the wires you already found.

 

[uberswede]

I am absolutely beginning to see why so many people give up on DSM's...

Anyways, as the title states, seemingly out of nowhere I started hearing some weird noise in and around idle RPMs... Car seemed to be running fine aside from the noise. I got a video right when the noise became noticeable. I was driving completely normal, no WOT, no boost (maybe touched 2-3 psi here and there), but just driving civil. VIDEO 1 :

Bad talon noise - YouTube

I drove very briefly after this video and it seemed to drive absolutely fine aside from the noise at low rpms, but it just seemed to get louder and worse, so I pulled over again a few minutes up the road. VIDEO 2 :

Bad talon noise 10 minutes later - YouTube

When I say "it's gotta be timing belt", I meant something timing belt-related, not necessarily the belt. Either way, I shut the car off immediately after this video and pulled the belt cover to inspect. Seemed fine to me. Looked around a bit more, checked oil again, nothing leaking, nothing was funny on the gauges at all. Go to start... THIS. VIDEO 3 :

Bad talon no start - YouTube


From here, the car was towed back to my place. I've started pulling easy pieces of the motor in anticipation of pulling the motor entirely out. There's a list of small things I wanted to do anyways and this would just make it easier... but does ANYONE out there have any ideas before I do a full tear down?

The motor is a 1g with arias pistons, eagle rods, machined crank, and a head rebuilt to oem spec. There is also a fluidampr dampener. This motor has MAYBE 12,000 kilometers on it... It shouldn't be dead already; I've barely even boosted it yet!!!

 

[MHuddy1213]

i would 1st do a compression test on your car it may be off timing maybe even the tensioner let go. do you have balance shaft elimination done toy your car? also next check the oil for metal shavings these are interference motors. as you have taken it apart have you niticed anything?

 

[1998_gst]

did you have it running with the T-belt cover off?

 

[uberswede]

I could try a compression test, but a lot of the motor has been taken apart already... Could compression just suddenly go like that even when driving nice?

The timing belt doesn't seem to be any tighter/looser than normal and looked fine when i took the cover off.

BSE was done on this motor, yes. I had considered something there potentially but really hope the "stubby shaft" didn't let go and jam up the crank or something ridiculous like that...

I checked my spark plugs for damage, they looked fine. Checking the oil was next on the agenda.

The motor has barely been taken apart yet enough to see much of anything other than checking the turbo, checking the plugs, and looking at the timing belt. This happened on Thursday and I needed a few days to let my temper subside before I touched the car again, haha.

The timing belt cover was off for a while, but it's been back on for a while now too. Think something could have just jammed up the belt somehow?

 

[MHuddy1213]

ok where did you order elimination kit from? compression test is to see if anything internally is gone like bent valves or anything in that area. timing marks match up correct?

 

[uberswede]

Slowboy Racing quite a while ago actually... I'll try to get the compression test done ASAP. As for the timing marks, they were fine when we put the motor in, but i haven't checked since this little incident.

 

[MHuddy1213]

i would deffinatly check the timing marks could be your whole problem but may turn into something bigger if the valves mad contact with the piston

 

[SmoochDarling]

It could be the Crank Position sensor backing out, then finally breaking hence the no start. Either way, Pull the whole timing belt cover off, see if the motor cranks by hand. Go from there, I am sure you will find something amiss.

 

[meliketoball]

Warranty starter was put in. The first two starters I put in were defected...

 

[ACT]

i've been dealing with this problem for 6months now. Car cranks but doesnt start/fire. Right after cranking car to start i hear a clicking sound, seems to be the ECU's relay box shutting down. It takes me 10-20 cranks to start my car, and when it start, car will immediately die, there goes the ticking sound again. Ive recently had tune up, new oil filters/fuel pump/spark plugs, injectors/fuel rail cleaned. Still having the same issue.

If ever my car starts, it will run fine. but when i park it and leave it sitting for 3hrs or more, 100% ill have the same problem.

do you guys think ECu is the problem? need replacement?

when we opened the ECU(Computer Box) we sa a black discloroation/burn on the middle of the bird. 2 long chips in the middle were burnt.


1G Eclipse GS

 

[a2tjhb]

ok so thanks again for the link was able to get that mount off and finsh the t-belt replacment. i had a buddie help me we took our time and made sure timeing was on and everything was put back right. we turned the motor over after the t-belt was on 6 times and it kept time perfect. after we got it all back together tryed to start it no dice. sounded like it wanted to then just cranked. we triple checked we didnt forget any conections everything looks good. the question is WILL IT START IF I BENT VALVES??? ive also replaced a few sensers and the fule pump/filter since it died. so im not sure if i should keep trying to start it and see if itll work its self out or take it back apart?? probably a dumb question but im pretty new to workn on my own car so any help will help thanks.

 

[2GCruiser]

Do compression test. If the valves don't seat the engine can't create enough compression to ignite the fuel.

 

[triggerx]

Got my head back from the machine shop, no bent valves or anything!! Told me the head was in great shape and was vacuum tested and all that jazz! Had the valve seals replaced as well.

So im putting in all the gaskets, any idea if the cam seals should go in dry? wet? with rtv?
Have the same question for the other seals like the crankshaft seal

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Bad ECU most likely. I tried to install my own chip on my ecu like a dumb a$$ and mine was clicking like crazy just like yours. Had to get a new ECU. Very common on 1g's to have capacitors go bad which could explain the burnt bits in the ECU.

 

[ready_red13]

this is the craziest thing when my car is in the sun w/ the windows up it will not start till the cab cools down. Y is this? now when i park in the shade it will start on problem. Now just to inform u all it won't turn over at all. Not till its cool will it even crank up crazy.