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StManTiS

10+ Year Contributor
71
0
Dec 3, 2009
Stamford, Connecticut
Basically the car wasn't getting spark, so thanks to some help from the community here it was traced to an ECU. From the classifieds i got a new eprom ECU for the 90 AWD.

Now the car starts but dies unless i keep the gas (air) above 1k rpm. I've revved it to 6k and its more or less fine. The whole car sorta shakes/rumbles at 1000 to 1300 RPM. The whole thing smells of lawnmower gasoline.

A little background: The previous owner had it just sitting for about 5 months or so without starting it. I am going to do a complete oil/fluids change soon. The fuel is probably that old too.

On visual inspection i found both the engine cover valves (PCV and the other) to missing their hoses.

It would be my guess (however inexpert) that only some of the cylinders are working or the lack of PCV hose it cause vac problems.

What could be the problem? Any Suggestion?
 
I believe it's not running right because those things being gone are causing big vac/boost leaks.
install said missing things and you'll be able to move on to the next problem..
 
how long is the hose and what diameter?
As i understand it the breather i can just put a filter on, or run a watch can

With the PCV i can run a catch can so it doesn't send oil into my intake, but it must sealed tight. Moreover what is the diameter of the hose i need?
 
how long is the hose and what diameter?
As i understand it the breather i can just put a filter on, or run a watch can

With the PCV i can run a catch can so it doesn't send oil into my intake, but it must sealed tight. Moreover what is the diameter of the hose i need?

you shouldnt be asking us these questions, take it off and measure it or bring it in to your local auto shop.
 
Alright so i got both those hoses taken care of. 3/8 in diameter. Gapped my spark plugs to .28 they're BRE7SE or something like that. Also i changed the oil.

So this time when i started it it starts at 2k RPM and then slowly goes down to 1k and dies. If it drops below 2K it starts to clunk kinda. I can rev it up and keep going but it doesn't sound good. Reeks of fuel and theres a little bit of smoke i think.

I'm gonna try and get a video tomorrow.

Any ideas?

Also some pics;
The IM before PCV fix. The last owner apparently cut it off and put a bolt in it.
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Also what is this plug? It branches off the MAF plug.
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I would check and make sure the other vacuum lines are in tact, and also make sure there is no fuel leak if it smells of gas. There are four nipples on the trottle body (2 on top and 2 on the side on your model), those rubber caps have a tendency to crack and can leave with a very bad vacuum leak, so check those as well.

From your pic it looks like the emission vacuum lines are removed so you should have one line going to the bov (should come from the inside of the intake mani), one line going to the fuel pressure regulator (should also come out of intake mani, near R side of engine), and there should be a line either from the turbo, intake pipe or T fitting going to the wastegate, as well as a line going to boost gauge if you have one.

FYI the connector in question is for the boost control solenoid, most everyone removes this in favor of a boost controller.
 
I would check and make sure the other vacuum lines are in tact, and also make sure there is no fuel leak if it smells of gas. There are four nipples on the trottle body (2 on top and 2 on the side on your model), those rubber caps have a tendency to crack and can leave with a very bad vacuum leak, so check those as well.

From your pic it looks like the emission vacuum lines are removed so you should have one line going to the bov (should come from the inside of the intake mani), one line going to the fuel pressure regulator (should also come out of intake mani, near R side of engine), and there should be a line either from the turbo, intake pipe or T fitting going to the wastegate, as well as a line going to boost gauge if you have one.

FYI the connector in question is for the boost control solenoid, most everyone removes this in favor of a boost controller.

ah thanks, well basically i don't have an MBC that i know of. There also would appear ot not be an EGR block off plate but ill check.

Could the timing being off cause it to shake like it does when it drops from 2?
 
I would spin the crank a coulple of times and check the marks on the timing gears just to be sure.

If there is no mbc, then make sure there is a vacuum line going to the wastegate.

Since the vacuum lines looked removed then the egr being unpluged with no blockoff plate could cause some idle issues.

Sounds like the car needs a good boost leak test to check for leaks. Are you still smelling fuel really bad?

Is the stock intake pipe on there, or is there an aftermarket one?
 
I would spin the crank a coulple of times and check the marks on the timing gears just to be sure.

If there is no mbc, then make sure there is a vacuum line going to the wastegate.

Since the vacuum lines looked removed then the egr being unpluged with no blockoff plate could cause some idle issues.

Sounds like the car needs a good boost leak test to check for leaks. Are you still smelling fuel really bad?

Is the stock intake pipe on there, or is there an aftermarket one?

stock intake, fresh MAF though (the only thing weird is that the screw is covered in some grease. K&N filter, the air can etc got removed.

I'm gonna try the hand crank but so far i looked and wasn't able to see time marks just two splotches of white paint (have no clue where thats from). Also gonna try and run a compression on it tomorrow, hopefully tomorrow my new vac hoses will come from RRE as well.
 
are the holes plugged up then on the stock intake pipe. One hose goes to the crankcase ventilation on the top of the valve cover, but the other (might be two, its been a long time since i have had a stock intake pipe :) ) are vacuum lines and if those are open that would cause some idle issues.

If you take the top cover off of your timing gears (R side of motor) there should be notches in the cam gears and you turn the crank clockwise (either 22 or 23mm socket) to make sure they line up.

If you dont need emissions hooked up in your state you can just use this diagram for the vacuum hoses. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/198327-taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html?nojs=1#links.

If you have a nipple off of the IC pipe elbow off of the turbo, use that to connect to your boost controller/wastegate instead of the BOV line.
 
So today i popped out all my old vacuum hoses and found a couple with holes. More interestingly though i found a LOT of grease.
There was a lot if on the upper on in this picture (the one with the crumpled rubber cover. The folds of the rubber were full of the grease...this picture is post clean out.)
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Also i found that the EGR was there the whole time and had nothing connected to it. Moreover why is the line holder full of those spikes on either end?
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Finally the inside of my intake pipe was wet with a greasy substance. Most prominently in the metal part holding the BoV.
 

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Pull the intake tube off of the turbo and check for oil at the bottom/inside of the turbo. Also check for shaft play. You might have more issues to worry about.

As for vacuum lines. If you live by a junk yard. Stop by there and pick some up. I usually get mine for dirt cheap. (Get them off of new cars.) Like a previous poster said. Follow this link. Remove emissions and you will eliminate tons of those lines.
 
Pull the intake tube off of the turbo and check for oil at the bottom/inside of the turbo. Also check for shaft play. You might have more issues to worry about.

As for vacuum lines. If you live by a junk yard. Stop by there and pick some up. I usually get mine for dirt cheap. (Get them off of new cars.) Like a previous poster said. Follow this link. Remove emissions and you will eliminate tons of those lines.

I already got brand new silicone hoses in all the diameters i'd need from RRE.

So you're saying that grease around the shift linkage (i think?) doesn't mean anything?
 
Is the crankcase hose from the L side of the valve cover going to your pre-turbo intake pipe?
I would be thinking that or a leak at the head for the turbo oil feed would be your culprit for the oil on the shifter linkage, otherwise blown turbo or head gasket :(
The EGR definitely needs a block off, although some people attach the egr on top of the block off plate.

If the intake pipe has alot of oil in it then you should remove your IC and run some gas in it to clean it out, as the oil really reduces its cooling abilty
 
Is the crankcase hose from the L side of the valve cover going to your pre-turbo intake pipe?
I would be thinking that or a leak at the head for the turbo oil feed would be your culprit for the oil on the shifter linkage, otherwise blown turbo or head gasket :(
The EGR definitely needs a block off, although some people attach the egr on top of the block off plate.

If the intake pipe has alot of oil in it then you should remove your IC and run some gas in it to clean it out, as the oil really reduces its cooling abilty

There was NO hose going from the crankcase to the intake pipe. But it wasn't oil i'm pretty sure... It felt more like high temp grease. Same kind of silvery color and tendency to clump.
 
So is there anything hooked up to the nipple on the Left side of the valve cover?
Nothing at all would create a bit of a mess, and a breather filter would drip oil on that part of the engine bay.
 
Last edited:
Originally there was nothing. The clear hose was added by me the day I popped the hood.
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Your missing the ground strap for the throttle body, that can cause the ECU not to know it's supposed to control the idle speed.

to what screw on the tb is that ground attached?
Also approximately what gauge is it?
 
If you don't have/find the strap a wire to either the intake manifold (if it still has it's ground) or the firewall will get the job done.

I would also suggest routing the plug wires correctly and making sure they aren't arcing.
I'm not a fan of running without the upper timing cover, a unlucky pebble can ruin your day.
 
If you don't have/find the strap a wire to either the intake manifold (if it still has it's ground) or the firewall will get the job done.

I would also suggest routing the plug wires correctly and making sure they aren't arcing.
I'm not a fan of running without the upper timing cover, a unlucky pebble can ruin your day.

I would run one...IF i had one.

However my car came without Vac hoses, BCS, Timing Cover, Spark Wire Cover, Spare Tire, Jack, FSM, Trunk carpet/cover, working license plate lights, screws holding front bumper, AC fan on radiator...and probably more that i haven't found yet...
 
Alright so while installing the EGR block off i found a thick hose (like 3/8) that appears to reach towards the intake and traced it back to be under the battery. What is it?
 
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