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2G Start of my 2G JDM 6 bolt swap and auto to manual swap

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Finally after 6wks of back order my cables showed at the dealer today I will take some good pics of installing the shifter cables and assembly for everyone. Should be on the street tonight if all goes well.
 
Getting random misfire looking into the POT fix but Magnus site is down and I can't find it anywhere else.
 
-----------------------------------------------------
IF CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS OCCUR! TRY THIS:

(Blake Heisler's Fix for misfire Check Engine Lights (CELs) when putting a 1G Cam Angle Sensor (CAS) on a 2G)

Many people using the 1G CAS on a 2G head have been running into problems with misfire engine codes while at cruise. Many different things have been blamed for this and many different fixes have been attempted.

This fix will keep the ECU from looking for misfires at all. This is the criterion that must be met before the ECU will start to look for misfires:

1. 300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position

2. Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher

3. Intake air temperature -10C or higher

4. Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa

Now if we can get one of these values outside of the criteria the ECU won’t check for misfires. The value that would be the easiest to change would be the barometric pressure sensor. We’re going to add resistance to this value so that the ECU will see less barometric pressure than what there really is. This will also lean the car out so you should see a performance increase as well. Depending on the car and altitude you might need to add more fuel with an AFC.

So let’s get started, Parts needed:

A 10K potentiometer (although a 5K would probably do just fine). These are available at any electronics store, if you go to Radio Shack ask for a volume control knob because they don’t know what a potentiometer is

Wire strippers

Soldering iron

Step 1: Remove the access panel on the driver’s side of the center console. You should now see four plugs with a ton of wires going to them.

Step 2: Pull out the top plug, it’ll be the one that’s the hardest to reach. Locate wire #85. It’s orange with a white stripe.

Step 3: Cut the orange wire in half. Solder one end of the wire to the center peg of your potentiometer. Solder the other end to either the left or right leg, it doesn’t matter which. Turn your potentiometer all the way counter-clockwise.

Step 4: Plug the harness back in and start up the car. It should sound like it did before you did any modifications. If the idle is choppy or the car won’t run you turned your potentiometer the wrong way.

Step 5: Add resistance to the barometric pressure sensor by slowly turning the knob on the potentiometer. Drive the car around; if you get a CEL then add some more resistance. Keep doing this until you no longer get the CELs.

That’s it, special thanks to Marco for pioneering this mod and to all the guys on the DSM1gina2g Yahoo group for all the discussion, ideas, etc.

-Blake Heisler
-----------------------------------------------------
...from www.magnusmotorsports.com
 
how safe is this mod?

i have heard mix thoughts, anytime i get a cel while driving i just clear it with my logger and i stay away for the rest of the drive.

i have a logger to see if i'm running lean. i would just like to here more on this fix and if its really worth it..

JJ
 
Thanks a million Tree I could find that anywhere! I will try that before I buy link. Justing from RRE doesn't recommend that way but I have a logger AFC etc I should be able to tune that pot out lots of guys are saying that your afc settings will change as much as 30-35% richer.
 
Couple shots while running. The SRS light is on and the parking brake. If anyone knows how to get that SRS light out I'm all ears.

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Does your reverse lights work? I heard there is a problem with them once you swap from auto to manual.
 
Yup there is a reverse light sensor on the top of the manual trans which is normally open so that when it goes into reverse you complete the circuit. So you have to power one side and when the reverse gear is applied it completes teh circuit all you do it patch into the reverse light circuit on the neutral safety switch the one which I took the pic of where to jump to get your car to start. I will post a pic next time I have to dig in my car cuz I zip tied that harness back now and don't wanna dig it up I did that part when my camera got stolen so I have no pics for you guys.
 
Well little update.

I have a small pan leak coming from somewhere. I dyed the oil with the that stuff to look under the blue lights to find it and its coming from the pan. Bought some engine leak stop guess I'll see if it works if not guess I'm pulling the pan. I also have a small small small leak from the pulley side but it looks like its from up above somewhere maybe the oil pump housing. I have no idea pretty much gotta pull the motor to find it and its not bad enough really to need that.
 
hellotbone said:
Couple shots while running. The SRS light is on and the parking brake. If anyone knows how to get that SRS light out I'm all ears.

Check your airbags. SRS is the airbag system and that means that your airbags aren't working correctly.
 
Yeah I know that I looked it up in the manual and everything seems alright I was wondering how to remove the passenger one and the driver one and get like a momo wheel or somethig and put a PS2 in the passenger side
 
hellotbone said:
Yeah I know that I looked it up in the manual and everything seems alright I was wondering how to remove the passenger one and the driver one and get like a momo wheel or somethig and put a PS2 in the passenger side

I was thinking about that too ... but from what I hear its illegal to remove the airbags unless they have previously been deployed, so I don't want someone to sue me if something happens and they get hurt from no airbag. It would be a cool mod though :shhh:
 
Anyone know how to trouble shoot it? Im guessing and this is a shot in the dark it may have something to do with the clock sping when I changed to the MT brake peddle setup if anyone has the right info I would apprecite some tips.
 
Job cost

60,000 to build garage and outfit it for the swap :p J/K was buildng the shop anways.

Donor car for MT transmission 1500.00 Parts off donor car $$$ in my pocket 2,500.00.
Parted it out for more then I paid.

Engine 1500.00 canadian.
Clutch 600.00 canadian
Oil Cooler 90.00 canadian
Cluth SS line 92.00 canadian
Flywheel machine 50.00 canadian
Oil cooler lines 150.00 canadian

Random misfire every 3 days priceless!

Guess I'll prolly end up getting link anyone know if you can disable the second 02 sensor code as well?
 
Swapped to my other ecu still getting RM so I guess link is next however bought an 05 chevy pick up so the talon maybe parked till spring.
 
sweet garage, and sweet project - hope i can pull this same thing off sometime in the near future - your thread will help alot tho
 
Well it is official, after some playing last night my 6 bolt either has a rod bearing gone or we're are possibly thinking CW. Now let me explain and see if anyone thinks this as well. Idling no noise at all in the motor, if I rev it slowly I have this knock coming from mid block not really in the bottom and its only like rap rap rap then it's gone through the rest of the RPM band. But it does it every time you roll into the throttle. My guess at this for CW, when we had the pan off and looking up into the engine the rods are ALL forced to one side of the piston wrist pin bearing they are not centered but all tight to the timing belt side, this to me would indicate the crank has moved toward the transmission, anyone wanna jump in here?
 
Well Im gonna do rod bearings first from the bottom of the engine pull the pan and replace em and see what happens if its still there I guess I'll yank it and rebuild it.
 
Well tonight I will decide either tear into it or park it for the winter I bought an 05 chevy pickup to drive right now since my car let me down. Jim is gonna come over tonight to peep it out as well. I'll let you all know what I do.
 
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