2G Start of my 2G JDM 6 bolt swap and auto to manual swap

[Grimis]

Manual trans ECU to go in.

Now this stumped me. My ECU in my Auto AWD is the same numbers as the one you have pictured but the 4 digits at the bottom of mine are 4610

 

[hellotbone]

Dunno man but both ECU's work in my car I just unplugged the TCU when I installed the MT.

 

[Mr96GSX408]

I have a question, might be a bit offtopic...

I'm planning on a built 6bolt shortblock swap on my auto 2g 7bolt.
First question is keeping the 2ghead possible? Not only that, I want to keep the auto (reason being I've spent $ building it up).
Second question: Is it going to be a straight forward bolton to the tranny and such?

thanks

 

[hellotbone]

The head you can use ask DsmJim he can tell you what you need to use the 7bolt head on your 6bolt block.

As for the trans thats a ??? I have heard of probs and others with none.

 

[destruckeclipse]

2g head will mate to 1g. You need to open the headbolt holes to fit the 1g head bolts.

 

[spyder97gs]

I've got a couple questions about the swap. I'm doing an engine/tranny swap too on a 2G. Did you cut the hole in the firewall for the clutch pedal from inside the engine bay since there was more room? Did you have to take the steering column out? I've heard on 2G's you don't, but I want to make sure.

 

[Grimis]

i did the holes for mine on the inside, there is't a way that i know of to do it from inside the engine bay, i dont think you can do it with the a/c lines and the wheel well in the way. When I did it on the inside, the steering wheel was still in place, i just removed the brake pedal sence your changing it over because the auto brake pedal has the brake lock cable braket on it and it will be in the way of the clutch pedal. Took me about 1hr with a drill and a dremal tool, just watch for the metal dust and sparks.

 

[spyder97gs]

K, thanks. So will I mount the master cylinder from under the dash, or the engine bay? I'm still trying to understand some of this. The clutch cables will use the same hole as the automatics, right? Thanks.

 

[Grimis]

master cyl, gets installed from the engine bay, there is no way it would work from installing under the dash be kind of hard as for the cables, yeah the same hole, and same nuts, 2 of them, off they come, and out comes the cables (with some work) and then put the MT cables back in, just remove the Auto TCU first, makes job easer.
here is a link to my blog, but i stoped because i could't find the trans, and figured out what was wrong with my auto trans, still looking for a good used auto awd trans.


My Blog for my swap

 

[spyder97gs]

http://www.4g64.com/gallery/manual_swap/ClutchMasterCylinder_and_SS_clutch_line

Thats where the master cylinder is going to mount, I can see the cutout in my engine bay for it. Looks like I may be able to drill the bolt holes out from there, since all my ac lines are removed.

 

[Grimis]

its going to be a bit more then the bolt holes, you need the hole for the master cyl it self, about 3inch or something whole saw. When i get out side, ill take a picture of the holes i have, sence i went back to auto.

 

[hellotbone]

Grimis is right follow what he is saying. I found a 90* drill and holesaw to be the ticket for the holes.

Grimis if you need an auto hit me up I have one from my car that was totally rebuilt 2000 k m ago bills to prove with translab shift kit and alto end clutch done.

 

[spyder97gs]

Okay, what size hole saw did you guys use? I see the cutout behind the wheel well, i'm gonna see if it's at all possible to cut it from the engine bay since the motor is out, but im sure it won't be.

 

[hellotbone]

I said I found the holesaw to be the ticket that doesn't mean I used it I wish I had not it was a total pain in the ass and about an hour drilling the hole out then using a die grinder to finish it with a grinding stone on it. If you can get a holesaw the same size as the stamping and a 90* drill a normal one WILL NOT FIT then you should be laughing.

No you cannot drill it from the engine bay no way shape or form.

 

[hellotbone]

Thought it maybe time for a little update on my car etc...

I have 5000 KM on the swap so far and I have had little to no trouble at all. I have a small transfer case leak that is on the transfer case input seal I have to replace tomorrow night being June 7th 2005 and also a small trans leak on the driver side CV shaft output. Both replacing tomorrow night.

I started the season with a studder from 3.5k to 5k and fixed that with a set of 1G coils.

I am putting a short throw shifter in this week and also put some new calipers, pads, and rotors on. This thing is quick and hard to stop so a new brake job was in order not to mention 2 of my stock calipers weren't working at all.

I have been having fun with it and have the pot mod done and no random misfire all year and since I fixed the coils I have had no trouble at all. I have to finish pimping up my AFPR install it's a little ghetto and was a thing to try at the time. I will have it nice nice this week.

Another mod I did which I like is the Rod Mod to the clutch slave the longer rod 1/4" longer for reference is much nicer. I just made one up on the late here at the house and tried it wasn't spending no 25$$$ for one and I like it.

I have been running 16 psi daily and 21 psi when I wanna play and it's awesome, pulls like hell. I'm currently building a 6 bolt motor up for a little more it will consist of

6 Bolt Head and Block
Eagle Rods
Wiseco 9:1 compression pistons
Ported & polished head
Clevite bearings etc
BS removed...

Tranny will be getting the Magnus make over this winter for all out street driving and drag racing.

Should have that new setup togeather and in this fall sometime or the spring I'm not totally decided when I want to do the swap.

As always if anyone has any questions about how a particular part of the swap is done shoot me a message I can try to help out.

 

[spyder97gs]

Figured i'd post here to see if someone could help me out fairly quickly. I got the brake pedal out and im ready to drill holes, with my hole saws in hand. I see three different size circlular holes. Do I take all three out? And the mounting holes for the master cylinder, do they get drilled from the engine bay? Thanks

 

[Grimis]

Yes all 3 have to come out, the size they are. The clutch pedal works in conjuntion (SP) with the master cyl. Once you get them drilled out, put the master cly in and put the pedal in and bolt it up. If my car wasnt at my bros house id take pictures.

 

[unlikely hero]

Well looks like I will be doing this swap fairly soon. I hit a deer last week and got frame damage and found another 2g tsi awd fairly cheap. I'll be swapping my 2.4 hybrid 6bolt and TRE tranny into the shell and its automatic.

My first question (of many I'm sure) is that can I use the automatic transfer case with the manual tranny? I ask because if its LSD I would love to keep it that way. Thanks
=Jason-

 

[Grimis]

Simple Easy Answer :NO

They are diffrent. It sucks

 

[hellotbone]

He's right I have a beauty non leaker auto tcase that I would love to swap for my seeping MT tcase!

 

[spyder97gs]

Did you end up having to get a new rear roll stopper bracket and not the actual mount? Also, what did you use to run your clutch line. If you used brake line, what fittings can I use for the master/slave cylinders. Thanks.

 

[Grimis]

SS Line i was going to use for the clutch line.

 

[jmadison]

Projects really moving along! Looks awesome. It's funny b/c i just did a little tranny work myself and my speed sensor broke in the exact same place, Hmm? No biggie just intresting. Good luck man keep it up!!!

 

[spyder97gs]

Okay. Well I just put the motor/tranny back in the engine bay. Yikes, the side motor mount isn't going to work, and neither is the rear.

 

[Grimis]

yeah u need the mt trans mounts, its on my list.