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2G Start of my 2G JDM 6 bolt swap and auto to manual swap

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The guys I got mine from are the largest Hydrolics shop in Toronto I would look into that before getting it its just to cheap.
 
i think its a replacement line not the whoel deal liek you got, it seems to short for the 1g car to go from master to slave.

hey pm me back!!!!




also whats the deal with the cv shaft, what clip are you talkign about
 
ITSME4G63 said:

That's not it. It's just a so called "RRE SS clutch line". It only replaces the rubber line and the reservior hard line for the 2g.

I've been quoted around 100ish for a custom line, and they couldn't even provide me with the correct fitting for the Master cyl. I went out and got everything from aeroquip/earls, costed around $80 so 90 CAN ain't bad.

Hey helltobone how does your clutch feel like with the -4AN ?
I had some different opinions about what size to go with, but I just went with -3AN. Just wondering if the -4 would have a easier feel...

BTW, whats the sensor in between the line going from the cooler and the oil filter?

-treebonker
 
Dude I couldn't tell you I have never driven a MT Talon :p I just did the SS cause it was cheaper then the dealer and looks cool.

Ask DSMJIM he was pushing it the other day but neither have driven it so we dunno what it will feel like.
 
OK to set the base timing its very simple. Do this from RRE

1. Connect a timing light to battery power (+ and -) and the Number 1 spark plug.

2. Connect a data logger to the car and display timing advance and RPM

3. Allow the car to come up to temp. Coolant 212 deg F, 750 RPM +/- 100, Fan's should cycle on and off

4. Read the timing from the crank with no load on the motor. Each mark is 5 deg no fans, no lights, no A/C etc.

Now watch your logger and see what the timing says on the screen in my case it was between 6-8* while Idling so I set my timing at 7* so all you do is find out what your logger is saying no math no adding or subtracting just set the timing on the motor the same. Adjust your CAS until the timing on the crank matches the timing on the logger. Yes, you can adjust the CAS with the motor running I just loosened it off enough to turn it and that was it set the timing. Its very sensitive so a little movement makes a lot of change.
 
Well I found out something about the AT/MT swap last night if you swap from LSD to non LSD BOTH I REPEAT BOTH rear drive shafts are different! I pissed half the night away trying to put the AT shaft in but it would not clip in! No matter what! So finally I took the shaft and beat the piss out of it over a steel beam that felt good!

Anyways I call the dealer today just to price a rear CV shaft appearantly they are not available at all only parts for them and they are 500 and 600 dollars respectively! So tonight I make a trip behind the garage to the trusty parts car and my nice CV joing still in it! Out she comes like butter and in my car all is well.
 
yea 1g fwd has that/ 2 years i forget which exact ones are different. i think it was 92 and up has bigger spines


and yes when i foudn out the were different on my first car i beat mine with a sledge hammer for kicks. bent the absolute hell otu of it and laughed :laugh:
 
Well I'm almost there I guess. Is there anything anyone thinks we need to add to this? Is there anything that requires any help? I think when I do the final write up I can compile with the 1G in a 2G docs. We should have something pretty idiot proof and easy to follow.
 
I would like to request a pic of a 6 bolt water cooled oil filter housing for the write up so I can show the comparison and also what is needed and not needed between the external oil cooler type like mine and the water cooled one.
 
hellotbone said:
Ask DSMJIM he was pushing it the other day but neither have driven it so we dunno what it will feel like.


For a 2600 it's pretty good acctually. Definately heavier than a 2100 however still good for a 2600. It will defaintely put some meat on your leg but it's not a killer workout where your gonna have one leg larger than the other. IMO it feels lighter than a 2600 would on another stock line talon, however thats fairly hard the gauge to be honest...
 
hellotbone said:
if you swap from LSD to non LSD BOTH I REPEAT BOTH rear drive shafts are different!
OMG good thing I didnt get it yet, 2 seperate shipment means mega bucks for me.

DSMJim said:
IMO it feels lighter than a 2600 would on another stock line talon, however thats fairly hard the gauge to be honest...
Thanks for the input. hmmm still make me wanna try out the -4AN...
 
Well Cars done, running wheels on read to drive but needs SHIFT CABLES I ordered them from Dsm Motorsports hope they show up soon.
 
try the dealership next time. it'll cost less and you'l know when it'll arrive.
$68 at the dealer.
$115 from dsmotorsports OMG

theres also a small bushing thats not included in the cable assy. you can prolly get it from the slaughtered donor.
 
Actually the dealer is what is has been on order form now for 5 weeks they can't get em so I ordered from DSM Motorsports. My dealer in canada was more then the US price.
 
hellotbone - just got my car to finally start up! I would like to add some information for your swap VFAQ:

you may use a 2G ignition coil and transistor pack. I put them back on my car and it started right up. Just for reference those are 2 less things people need to hunt down to do the swap.

edit - i guess the reason they say to use a 1G ignition is so it will bolt to the manifold properly but who wants to put the ignition there?
 
hey i had my swap done for a while now. Im still worried that my timing isnt right what should the timeing be at idle. And i think that the random misfire light goes away when you change the injectors around correct?? Also i am having idling issues as well. I replaced the o2 sensor and it help it alot but didnt fix it any idea's thanx guys
 
hey guys im bolting up my 90 6 bolt block to my 96 5 speed trans.

how many bolts connect the 2?

i have 3 bolts connected, it looks like the 7 bolt had 4.

Am i missing some bolts? Or is this right 3 right?

the 7 bolt i think had more bolts holding it together.

thanks,

JJ
 
TD05HTalon said:
hellotbone - just got my car to finally start up! I would like to add some information for your swap VFAQ:

you may use a 2G ignition coil and transistor pack. I put them back on my car and it started right up. Just for reference those are 2 less things people need to hunt down to do the swap.

edit - i guess the reason they say to use a 1G ignition is so it will bolt to the manifold properly but who wants to put the ignition there?

I did use the 2G stuff I totally swapped every sensor from my 2g motor to the 1g one I didn't use anything from it at all.
 
boostedgst2984 said:
hey i had my swap done for a while now. Im still worried that my timing isnt right what should the timeing be at idle. And i think that the random misfire light goes away when you change the injectors around correct?? Also i am having idling issues as well. I replaced the o2 sensor and it help it alot but didnt fix it any idea's thanx guys

My base is around 7 * you gotta match your timing on the car to that of the logger at idle with the car warm etc...
 
Logue said:
hey guys im bolting up my 90 6 bolt block to my 96 5 speed trans.

how many bolts connect the 2?

i have 3 bolts connected, it looks like the 7 bolt had 4.

Am i missing some bolts? Or is this right 3 right?

the 7 bolt i think had more bolts holding it together.

thanks,

JJ


There are now 3 there used to be 4. You have it right! :thumb:
 
does the starter plate need cutting and drilling/grinding to match a one of the bolt hole?

Just saw the tech article. It mentioned something about the starter plate/bracket? being in the way of the t-case. Also one of the bolt holes not aligning with the 6bolt. Is this necessary? cuz it's the first time I've heard something like that.
 
treebonker said:
does the starter plate need cutting and drilling/grinding to match a one of the bolt hole?

Just saw the tech article. It mentioned something about the starter plate/bracket? being in the way of the t-case. Also one of the bolt holes not aligning with the 6bolt. Is this necessary? cuz it's the first time I've heard something like that.


I DID NOT have to grind modify slot anything for the Tcase or starter to fit. I saw it in the FAQ I followed but have no idea why its in there. Everything of mine just bolted right up.
 
hellotbone said:
There are now 3 there used to be 4. You have it right! :thumb:


You mean the 2 top and 1 bottom towards the front bumper cover? I was looking for a place to put the 4th bolt hole but I didnt feel any thread. Also, What is up with the front roll stopper? the bracket that the tranny bolts to has a smaller bolt hole than the mount itself, which cause it to jiggle aorund. Anything that i am doing wrong?
 
Bastard1g said:
You mean the 2 top and 1 bottom towards the front bumper cover? I was looking for a place to put the 4th bolt hole but I didnt feel any thread. Also, What is up with the front roll stopper? the bracket that the tranny bolts to has a smaller bolt hole than the mount itself, which cause it to jiggle aorund. Anything that i am doing wrong?


There are 2 bolts though the top of the bell housing and one to the front of the car. The one in the rear is now gone.

The Roll stopper is weird eh? 2 diff sizes I know but thats how they made it! You are right though its messed up.
 
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