The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Start of my 2G JDM 6 bolt swap and auto to manual swap

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

It's a precision turbo t3/t4 50 trim bolt on internal wasted turbo. PM DSMJIM to get the exact P/N for it cuz Im not sure he got it for me from the performane shop he was working at. Same with my IC.

If I wasn't doing the At/MT swap at the same time in a garage equipped like mine I would say max time would be 8-12 hours thats to replace timing belts and all. A complete motor ready to swap in with no BS like getting CV joints apart etc would be much less.
 
I have allready swapped my motor in but now here comes the tough part that i dont like.... the wiring. There are so many more wires on a 2g than a 1g. I need a list of which sensors are a must for plugging in for a 2g. I would rather not have a cel but its almost impossible witht he way i set my car up.

I know I need...

2g o2 sensor
2g knock sensor
2g coolant temp sensor
2g oil preasure sensor
2g throttle position sensor
anything else?
I am blocking off my egr valve so I have to find out where the egr valve position sensor is
I have a keydiver chip in my 95 ecu.
I have a 91 style oil filter housing allready on
I hear a 91 coil pack will work
I would like to eliminate all possible emitions stuff since I dont have emissions here. Anything I am forgetting about wiring this thing up?
 
OK I can field some of this but Jim knows better the emission solenoids. On top of the intake manifold you can block all those ports and remove the solenoids but it will kick a CEL about once ever 6 months.

What I will be plugging in from memory right now
2g knock
2g water temp
2g oil pressure
O2 sensor
TPS
MDP (or whatever its called) manifold pressure sensor
The one on the bottom of the TB (IAC)
Igniter (power transistor) Duh
2g coil pack rewired backwards in the VFAQ
speedo pickup sensor (VSS)

I think that's about it I have a big harness of about 8 plugs from the auto trans I can eliminate once the rest of the work is done and I know everything works.

QUESTION about the ECU's. I just put the MT ECU in my car and unplugged the autotrans TCU is that right? I'm pretty sure I can do that with no ill effects.
 
hellotbone said:
OK I can field some of this but Jim know's better the emission solinoids on top of the intake mani you can block all those ports and emove teh soloniods but it will kick a CEL about once ever 6 months.



QUESTION about the ECU's I just put the MT ECU in my car and unplugged the autotrans ecu is that right? Im pretty sure i can do that with no ill effects.

You will wanna keep the solenoids pugged in but you can unplug all the rest of the vac hoses and just plug everything. You will alaso wanna find a way to get vac to that manifold pressure differential sensor to keep away CE lights but it's not that big a deal. Honestly I drive around with a CE light on my car all the time and it's no big deal you get used to it. I dont even notice it anymore to be honest.

You should just be able to plug in your other ECU and away you go. They wouldn't have made two chassis harness's for the at and manual cars, too much work. I am not sure if they are the same or not however...
 
The ECU its self is different there are different model number's on it. I look at it as if the AT ECU is plugged in the cars ECU is gonna look for it unplug it and swap ECU's its not gonna look anymroe guess we'll see!
 
This is how you jump the neutral safety switch not the best pic but those are the wires you need to jump. I just cut it behind the plug and soldered the two togeather but I took a shot of the plug so you can see which to jump.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Pics of the motor in the car with everything buttoned up other then a couple cosmetic things to be finished off.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


My main grunt man Al.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The coil pack I ended up tucking it down behind the motor to keep it hiding out of the way and clean.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Thats pretty much it.

We turned the motor over with the starter like 2x to make sure it worked an all. I have to get the oil cooler on shift cables in (backorder still 5 weeks!!!) Coolant hoses done, and clutch feed line and thats all she wrote. I will complite notes into a full VFAQ soon.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
You should consider reloacting that battery, being that 2g engine space is a bi***, compared to the 1g.
 
Im thinking of it for later down the road right now its pretty clean wait till you see final pics and let me know what you think.
 
Here is a shot of the electricle box I had to move it a bit because my S pipe is tighter for some reason now.

Also a shot of the battery area all cleaned up.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Here is a shot of how tight the S pipe is with the cyclone manifold its a Dejontool pipe I had to give it a whack with a mallet and give it a small dent to clear the waterneck.

Just a shot of my list of things to do.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Tool Tools and more tools along with a nice mess expect your garage to look like this :thumb:

I have to note I got that big SS box from Cosco for 680.00 Canadian!!!!!!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Ok my solution for the MDP sensor. I used a rubber to step it down then a barb fitting to make it 1/4 then to my brake vacuum line with a T fitting.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


My solution for no water fill on the 6 bolt was to make one of my own. Little work on the 5 axes.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Couple pics of my shop for all the garage lovers :p :thumb:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
You should maybe try moving that electical box to where your battery is after you put the battery in the trunk, also would opt to put a water injection reservoir alongside :)
 
ITSME4G63 said:
You should maybe try moving that electical box to where your battery is after you put the battery in the trunk, also would opt to put a water injection reservoir alongside :)


Have you looked at the harness attached to that sucker? There is no way in hell I am moving that around.
 
hellotbone said:
Have you looked at the harness attached to that sucker? There is no way in hell I am moving that around.


Maybe rn a short-route fmic pipe? Easen it up a bit for the electric fuse box.
 
So are we sure that all we need plugged in to run right is...

2g o2 sensor
2g oil preasure sensor
2g knock sensor
2g water temp sensor
2g throttle position sensor
2g maf sensor
1g or 2g coil pack
fuel preasure selenoid
1g or 2g isc
2g ignition power transistor

the rest is optional right? I dont plan on running an egr ( so no mdps) or evap canister.

We need a vfaq for pulling the gauge cluster and removing the lil light bulb for the check engine light j/k

All I need for my swap now is fuel pump, fmic which I am ordering this week and all the sensors.
 
Bastard1g said:
So are we sure that all we need plugged in to run right is...

2g o2 sensor
2g oil preasure sensor
2g knock sensor
2g water temp sensor
2g throttle position sensor
2g maf sensor
1g or 2g coil pack
fuel preasure selenoid
1g or 2g isc
2g ignition power transistor

Correct
Correct but also there is another sensor on the housing for the idiot light
correct
correct there are 2 sensors though one with a single plug connection and one with a dual plug connection
correct
correct
correct
correct
I beleive it must be 2g only
correct
Also there is still a connection for your alternator and power steering pump,well there is the CAS and CAM wires as well. I think that's all that is required. You can unhook the vac lines from the emissions solonoids but you can just plug the solonoids in and stuff em behind the manifold so they are outta the way.
 
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g97-99.htm

I dont understand this, Only one wire goes from the cas to the wiring harrness? Also, I dont have another sensor on my oil filter housing. I have a 91-94 water cooled oil filter housing off of a galant vr4. Is there anything I am missing here? I also hope that I can use my 1g isc cause I dont know anyone with an isc and I hear those are pricey.
 
Bastard1g said:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g97-99.htm

I dont understand this, Only one wire goes from the cas to the wiring harrness? Also, I dont have another sensor on my oil filter housing. I have a 91-94 water cooled oil filter housing off of a galant vr4. Is there anything I am missing here? I also hope that I can use my 1g isc cause I dont know anyone with an isc and I hear those are pricey.


Im not to sure I understand what you are asking with the wiring? Um I can attempt to simplify. You have those two plugs on your car right now so what I did was cut the 2 old ones off my motor so I had 2 plugs that matched the ones in the wiring hanress. Now just match the wires coming from those two plugs to the CAS on your 6bolt.

You should be fine with your oil flterhousing mine wasn't water cooled so I have to use an external cooler. Your 1g ISC WILL NOT WORK the plug is different.
 
Here is a pic of the SS clutch line to go right from the Master on the firewall to the slave on the tranny.

That bad boy practically bleeds its self :p
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
hellotbone said:
Here is a pic of the SS clutch line to go right from the Master on the firewall to the slave on the tranny.

That bad boy practically bleeds its self :p


where did you buy that sexy ass line?
 
You have a LSD rearend and you put in a 5spd non-LSD rear end, correct?
If so,can you confirm if the passenger rear axle the only one need replacing for sure?
I might be getting a non-LSD so I can use it until I rebuild my bad one.

oh yeah, where do they sell those ss lines? I've asked everywhere and noboady had them and it was too $ for a custom fab so I made one myself.

-treebonker
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top