2G Start of my 2G JDM 6 bolt swap and auto to manual swap

[hellotbone]

Hey TREE Im editing what I said after talking to a rad/oil/intercooler shop the AUTO TRANS OIL COOLER WILL NOT flow enough. So I have to go to crappy tire and get one.

 

[hellotbone]

OK last night I changed the BS belt and the Timing belt did all the tensioners pulleys everything is all brand new.

So the engine is complete and ready to swap in. My tranny is in the pressure wash machine here at work right now its going well.

Problem I ran into. My Auto Rear Diff is marked on teh back LSD and the 5 speed one is marked BFB or something and the ratio's are different ontop of that so are the CV shafts. So I am going to pull the CV shafts out of the donor car but just a heads up to those swapping the rear Passenger side CV shaft IS different as well as the front!

Also when changing the motor mount where the tensioner pulley mounts no where in the swap docs does it say you need to RE-USE the arm from the 6blot mount wanted to make a note for when I compile this into a Vfaq.

Modding the belt guard is realitively easy you just need to remove the 2 motor mount studs from the mount and then slot the guard to fit over it. I ordered a new camera which will be here today for more pics.

 

[treebonker]

yes, Rr axles are specific to locking/non-locking type rear diff and abs/non-abs.

What would the "motor mount arm" be ?

"slot the guard" meaning trimming the guard ?

we need pictures !

 

[hellotbone]

I know pics comming, I mean when you change the motor mount on the engine which fits behing the timing belt the one you have to modify you also have to change the small arm the tensioner pulley mounts to from teh 6bolt one.

 

[hellotbone]

Did the peddles and shifter and cables last night. Pics coming camera supposed to ship in today.

 

[treebonker]

AUTO TRANS OIL COOLER WILL NOT flow enough.

aww that sucks, I've been holding onto mine after my tranny swap. Time to feed the trash can

you also have to change the small arm the tensioner pulley mounts to from teh 6bolt one.

Oh, you mean the tensioner arm. Do you have to use the 1g tensioner also?

One more question, the water pipes and thermostat, what needs to be replaced also?

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-treebonker

 

[hellotbone]

Treebonker I completely re-used all the 6bolt coolant stuff the waterneck etc just replaced the T stat. Also you have to swap your sensors from the 7bolt to make it work properly.

Also about the tensioner you buy everything for a 1g timing belt/tensioner pulleys/then you use your 2g motor mount which has an Arm that the tensioner with the cam attaches to. You have to swap this arm that the tensioner pulley is attached to from your 1g motor mount. So you are using your 2g mount with the 1g tensioner arm. You also use a 1g Auto tensioner its just as if you were working on a 1G.

 

[Nos~4G63]

That is a pretty large project you are taking on. Nice garage b.t.w.

Can I have your auto tranny?

 

[hellotbone]

ACT 2600 Clutch this pertains to the manual swap I'm doing at the same time. Not to much to explain here set the clutch on the flywheel bolt the pressure plate on and toss the new throw out bearing on.

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Manual trans before I cleaned it up. Still needs the throw out bearing and the Transfercase seal installed.

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OK this is what I was talking about before for slotting the Timing belt cover. If you remove the two bolts from the motor mount in the picture you can just slot the cover and slide it on it. Then put the two mount studs back in.

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6bolt ready to go just gotta bolt the tranny up to it and drop it in the hole.
Precision Mitsu flanged t3-t4 50 trim pictured.

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Manual trans ECU to go in.

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Can I have your auto tranny?

For a small fee

 

[hellotbone]

Here is a side shot of it to show everyone how the water neck is routed etc. I will have to get an on hose filler cap because the 6 bolt stuff has no provisions for any.

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This is how I mounted the coil and Igniter pack to try and keep the bay clean its tucked neatly along the side and will not be visible from the top of the car. Also note the butterfly valves zip-tied open

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This shows the reservoir and mounting holes in the firewall as you can see mine had two round stickers covering them just peel the stickers and the holes are there drilled and tapped for you. However the holes for the master must be drilled and cut in the firewall but they are stamped on the inside. I drilled the two bolt holes and then used an air die grinder to open the larger master hole up. If I was doing this again I would just use a holesaw. You pretty much need a 90* drill to do this part.

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This is the donor car with the holes in the firewall to give you an idea of what you are cutting out on the right side. NOTE YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE BRAKE BOOSTER to do this. YOU ALSO DO NOT NEED to remove the dash steering wheel etc. I even did it with the driver seat in my car.

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Ok this is the car with the auto shifter gutted but cables still in place.

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Here is the manual trans shifter before I take it to work and glass bead it. Will be in tomorrow night.

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Here is a misc shot of the donor car, hope mine never looks like that! :thumbdown This is after is hun a rod though the oil pan and caught an oil fire under the car and engine bay.

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Just a shot showing where I mounted the knock sensor wire harness next to the CAS it's close to the 7 bolt stock location. The proper 1g 60mm TB installed not that useless JDM one my motor came with. For those questioning the hose routing you can see I marked those in the picture. Now the hose sticking straight up and the one with the two clamps wrapped down and under go to the TB.

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[fastdsm18]

Manual trans ECU to go in.

EPROM

 

[hellotbone]

YUP

Another thing I ran into you have to change doing the AT/MT swap is if you have an LSD and the new diff is not as in my case you need to change the passenger side rear CV shaft and mine is a MF to get out. Im taking the torches home today so you can imagine how siezed it is!

 

[telly699]

Very nice work on a very large project.... and subscribe.

Oh yeah, wanna let me use your garage? Damn its nice.

 

[kelvinb]

are you going to part out that car at all?

 

[hellotbone]

are you going to part out that car at all?

Let me know what you are after and I can work something out with you. Its in the classifieds as a part out car.

 

[DSMJim]

Wow, Jamie this thread is awesome. Sorry I couldn't come over tonight, something came up and I couldn't make it though I really wanted to, trust me.

I can't wait to see the rest of your pics..

 

[hellotbone]

The rear CV shaft is in there, look how much we beat on that some bi***! I had to remove the whole deal and take it to work tomorrow and hit it up on the press. We beat the bloody thing to death and nothing. I even heated it with the real torch (O2 and acetylene) nothing!

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The 6 bolt on the floor with the trans on. This was the last step before I put it on the cart in the following pictures. It's ready to bolt into my car at this point.

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Couple more shots of the prepped engine.

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[hellotbone]

Here is my motor on the cart we used to put it in with. We used the cherry picker to set it on the cart which has 4 casters then we could position the motor under the car and line it up fairly easily.

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A view from the top thats the motor in the car there but not lined up. Following are a couple shots of it and how off it was from the mounts we had to more it around a bit but it went in.

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Last one for the night this is the motor all bolted in but I hadn't lifted the car yet to pull the cart out.

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Question for the followers here is anyone interested in how we are removing the rear diff and front drive shafts or is it pretty stupid proof? I ask because I am working on that and I can take some pics if anyone needs.

OH BTW in the posts the igniter pack and coil are mounted to the manifold it, won't work like that the harness is to short. So don't both making it nice and mounting them there.

 

[hellotbone]

Something I ran into tonight with the MT swap part of the deal. The shaft that comes from the drivers side of the trans (intermedate)??? shaft I dunno whats it called. Its the solid one that bolts to the block of the car and then the CV joint goes on it. Yeah its about 1" shorter on the manual then the auto so you are gonna need that shaft if doing the swap.

 

[dsmayhem]

Where did you end up mounting the coil etc?

Oh and awesome thread thus far.

 

[hellotbone]

Gonna mill up a bracket tomorrow at work pics to follow no worries there

 

[hellotbone]

Here are a couple shots of what I did to the coil bracket.

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This courtesy of Silver2GSt I found in another post

Basically the plug wires are real easy, just swap the wires from one coil pack to the other. from left to right the wires use to be { 4 1 } { 2 3 } now you will make it like this { 2 3 } { 4 1 } ... that has to be done on any year 2G.

At RRE's website under the CAS section you will see where they mention that the injectors are 90* out on the 95-96 ECUs. Now it's not a big problem they say but they mention it will allow the car to start and idle better and overall run smoother. you'll need the ECU pin out from www.vfaq.com but basically you have to rearrange the injectors like so:

Injector wire 2 becomes injector 1
Injector wire 3 becomes injector 2
Injector wire 4 becomes injector 3
Injector wire 1 becomes injector 4

Check it out on RRE just be sure and to get the wire colors. I haven't fixed my dead O2 sensor and have not done the injector wire swap but plan on doing both tomorrow

 

[hellotbone]

Here are a couple courtesy of DSMJIM from his car.

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[DSMJim]

You bastard you stole my pics hhhaha. That honestly is a great spot to mount the coil pack. It's out of the way, the stock 2g ignition wires fit and you can just modify the regular coil pack bracket to make it all work.

 

[blitz43]

6bolt ready to go just gotta bolt the tranny up to it and drop it in the hole.

Precision Mitsu flanged t3-t4 50 trim pictured.

Where did you get that exact turbo? Can you link me to it
How long did this all take you to do?