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2G stalling in neutral. 2g

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thewhiteone

10+ Year Contributor
74
0
Jan 26, 2011
Toledo, Ohio
alright so more problems are arising with my gsx.

car drives okay, however, the idle is causing problems.

idle should be between 800-1000, however it surges all the way to 2000 sometimes.
I think the IAC is messed up and probably needs replacing.

second problem comes when shifting into neutral like for a stop or something.
I downshift and car completely dies. If i put it back into gear quickly enough it comes back. could this be more of a tuning problem or something mechanical?
 
boost leak
spark plugs
biss screw on the throttle body
vacuum leak

just a few of the things it could be. you said it drives fine, but i'm guessing you don't have a wideband to tell if you run rich under boost.
 
very small boost leak at intake mani.

spark plugs are brand new and all gaped properly.
wideband broke so no i need a new one.

vaccum leak or biss screw both sound like possibilities although biss is more likely.

since I have you guys here what do i need to do about this to fix.
 
very small boost leak at intake mani.

spark plugs are brand new and all gaped properly.
wideband broke so no i need a new one.

vaccum leak or biss screw both sound like possibilities although biss is more likely.

since I have you guys here what do i need to do about this to fix.

no boost leak is the way to go, so if I were you, I'd take care of that the best way you could.

typically speaking, i always start with the easiest/cheapest solution, and if that doesn't work, keep moving up the ladder.
 
that would be the reason for the high idle but why would it stall out shifting into neutral?

question-ever notice an oil pressure light?
 
this is something I noticed when I had my GST, though it was an automatic. every time the engine ran for like 20 minutes or longer and i would drive and let off the gas, the RPM's would dip 600-1000 R's. I've came close to stalling it a ton of times, but never did.

The problem was valve seals if I'm not mistaken. I was using too thin of oil and it would seep through (5w30). Once I switched to 10w30, it stopped doing it. So it could even be your oil. Hence why I said it could be alot of things earlier.

As for the biss screw, turn the car on, and just mess with it and adjust it to how the idle is supposed to be.
 
low compression sounds like another culprit. maybe do an engine compression test
 
I dont have the tools to do one, but I know last time it was done compression was all over the place.

have been working on fixing that but I think i just need a rebuild.
maybe thats where I should go next.
 
cant say for sure. car had 6 bolt swap when i bought it with 6000 since swap.
 
While yes you should always know the condition of your motor Are you sure you correctly did a compression test the first time?

Until you replace your ISC there really isn't a point in debating on what it could be since you believe that it is culprit yourself

etay89 You kinda sound like like your just randomly throwing idea's out their ATM...

Just get it fixed here is how to test it to start with...

<object width="640" height="390"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/KibYz21IMA0&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&version=3"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/KibYz21IMA0&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></embed></object>

If it is the ISC motor when you replace it you'll need a logger to monitor ISC position. if you have one It should be 32 at hot idle, no a/c, no fans on, 750rpm -/+100 rpm Et cetra... You have to make sure you set it after getting your car warmed up to operating temp... It's easiest though it you have Ecuflash/evo scan,Ecm/dsmlink,or a MUTII scan tool with the Diagnostic test control terminal grounded...

Here is a how to Click here

Also there's something that isn't mentioned it the link Above,
With 2g's an important adjustment is the Idle Position Switch that's part of the TPS. this could be part of your High Idle problems as well...

The manual has you place a 0.0177" (0.45mm) feeler guage between the stop screw and the throttle pulley to open the butterfly and then adjust the TPS right to where the IPS (pins 3 and 4) switches from closed to open. Then they have you verify that the TPS (pin 2 and 4) reads between .4 and 1V while the feeler guage is still in place.

On top of all this make sure to start with the your throttle linkage is all adjusted correctly... .


If this is a 2g Which I'm assuming it is it's A Lot less likely it a ecu problem but you can check the function of the ISC when keying on the Ignition like this to tell if the ECU has a ISC driver problem...
<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/l7R3gf7SiAo?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/l7R3gf7SiAo?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></object>

I do have one question though Do you have a lightweight flywheel?
 
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