Someone with LC-1 knowledge.

[TSi Kid]

Long story short I was forced to drive my car with an uncalibrated lc-1 hooked up, I have my lc-1 wired to where my o2 sensor is so I could eliminate my front o2 and this was done through link, and did so for about 35-40miles.

Now my o2 sensor isn't cycling, I can post logs if needed, could I have ruined the sensor?

I parked the car for about 3 weeks and then I went to retune and recalibrate the lc-1 and I couldn't even get her to stay running.

 

[snowborder714]

Driving on an uncalibrated sensor shouldn't cause any issues, other than improper readings.

I would say double check the wiring and your ECMlink settings for the ECU Inputs and Narrowband sim. Then pull the sensor out and recalibrate it twice.

 

[TSi Kid]

Driving on an uncalibrated sensor shouldn't cause any issues, other than improper readings.

I would say double check the wiring and your ECMlink settings for the ECU Inputs and Narrowband sim. Then pull the sensor out and recalibrate it twice.

What ways could I ruin a sensor by driving it, if any?

I plan on redoing the wiring as well, but the thing was it ran perfect, kicked a wire loose, let it sit, then recalibrated it perfectly, and now it's not reading properly.

I plan on doing new plugs as well but I don't know what else to check.

 

[snowborder714]

Ruining one quickly? None that I can think of. Long term might be in the front o2 housing, leaded gas, stuff like that. But even with that, long term still could be over a year or two.

What do you mean by "kicked a wire loose"?

If it were me, I'd disconnect the sensor from the black box, turn the key on (don't start car), let it sit for a bit, turn it off, reconnect sensor, and then recalibrate and install.

 

[TSi Kid]

If it were me, I'd disconnect the sensor from the black box, turn the car on, let it sit for a bit, turn it off, reconnect sensor, and then recalibrate and install.

I kicked the power loose from where it was wired to the gauge and from there it was wired to a fusable amp.

That is exactly what I did, and the recalibration went fine which is why I don't know where the problem lays.

 

[snowborder714]

You made sure to check the fuse?

Recalibrate it again and take a log (with the car up to temp) and post it. I'll see if there's something there that we might be missing.

 

[TSi Kid]

Due to my computer situation, the situation being that I broke my laptop, I can only email the logs I have and forward them because I don't have access to an actual computer; only my droid x.

Any way I could send one off to you and then have you post it?

 

[snowborder714]

Attached the log you sent me. Are you sure this is the right one? If so, you didn't follow all of the suggestions I posted. Check out post #2 to be specific.

 

[TsiJohn333]

Reading this log, looks like something is either wrong with your settings on ecmlink, or something is wrong with your wiring i.e a wire came undone, loose connections etc. Go back and double check everything and then calibrate your sensor.

 

[snowborder714]

Isn't that what I said in post #2, which I told him to look at?

 

[dsmtalon2008]

He did not drive with it uncalibrated.... he told me he drove on it without power to it... meaning it was not heating up and DEFINITELY CAN kill a sensor real quick.

 

[snowborder714]

Now, that's a completely different story from what was posted above. Yes, that is a very good possibility that he killed it like that then.

Once he gets a laptop to change the link settings to have it actually recognize the sensor and verifies it doesn't work, the sensor would be the next step.

 

[TSi Kid]

He did not drive with it uncalibrated.... he told me he drove on it without power to it... meaning it was not heating up and DEFINITELY CAN kill a sensor real quick.

Yeah...errr that's what I meant.

Once he gets a laptop to change the link settings to have it actually recognize the sensor and verifies it doesn't work, the sensor would be the next step.

What do you mean by this?

 

[pj91gsx]

Driving on an uncalibrated sensor shouldn't cause any issues, other than improper readings.
.

Wrong. It says in bold letters in the lc1 guide that driving with the sensor not calibrated can damage the sensor. This has not happened to me, but did happen to someone i know. The lc1 was brand new. He blew the fuse and didnt fix the calibration issue. It never would work after that point and i tried calibrating it for hrs. I calibrated it correctly the 1st time.

 

[snowborder714]

You said you have the wideband in the front o2 spot and are simulating the narrowband sensor using ECMlink. The screenshots below of the two necessary screens in ECMlink (from the log you sent me) show you don't have either configured to work, which means the car probably wouldn't start or run well.

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Wrong. It says in bold letters in the lc1 guide that driving with the sensor not calibrated can damage the sensor. This has not happened to me, but did happen to someone i know. The lc1 was brand new. He blew the fuse and didnt fix the calibration issue. It never would work after that point and i tried calibrating it for hrs. I calibrated it correctly the 1st time.

Is this the text you read? I skimmed the guide quickly for bold text and this was the closest thing I found to what you stated.

When installed in the exhaust, the oxygen sensor MUST be
connected and operating with the LC-1 whenever the car is running.
An un-powered oxygen sensor will be quickly damaged when
exposed to hot exhaust gases.

If it is, what you stated is incorrect. There's a difference between "connected and operating" and "calibrated". Connected and operating is what dsmtalon2008 said the OP did not do. A sensor can be connected and operating but out of calibration (i.e. reading 12:1 at cruise when it normally reads 14.7:1).

 

[Jon91TSi]

Was the sensor removed from the o2 housing to calibrate in free air? If you are going through the calibration process with the sensor installed in your o2 housing your readings will definitely be off... As for what was posted above.. The unit does not know if the readings are off are not unless a free air calibration is done, the only way a wbo2 sensor can be damaged is if it is not properly heated up, or in this case, disconnected. The sensor creates heat to antifoul itself, without that heat the carbon and other hydrocarbons in the exhaust will contaminate and destroy the sensor. Leaded fuels etc. will also kill an oxygen sensor, although not as quickly as running one designed to be heated without the heater.

 

[bastarddsm]

Ruining one quickly? None that I can think of. Long term might be in the front o2 housing, leaded gas, stuff like that. But even with that, long term still could be over a year or two.

What do you mean by "kicked a wire loose"?

If it were me, I'd disconnect the sensor from the black box, turn the car on, let it sit for a bit, turn it off, reconnect sensor, and then recalibrate and install.

Come again? I hope you didn't mean run the car..

 

[snowborder714]

Not sure which part of that you'd like further clarification on. If it was the steps, no, I did not mean run the car. Just turn it to accessory power or the like. Sorry for the lack of detail. I'll go back and edit it if this was what your question was in reference to.

 

[TSi Kid]

You said you have the wideband in the front o2 spot and are simulating the narrowband sensor using ECMlink. The screenshots below of the two necessary screens in ECMlink (from the log you sent me) show you don't have either configured to work, which means the car probably wouldn't start or run well.

Alright, i'll try redoing the wiring, calibration, and setup on link but i'm pretty sure I've fried this sensor as well.

Thanks again for the help everyone.

 

[dsmtalon2008]

Snowboarder... not to call you an idiot or anything of that nature - but do you realize that the stock o2 sensor is looking for a 1 volt input and that the narrowband signal wire off the lc1 is preprogrammed for .1-1.1 volts?

I know you think you have a high intelligence of these cars but apparently not in this case.. it has been proven time and time again that wb02 sim is NOT needed when using an lc1 setup as the front o2 sensor.

So for all the threads that you and all the other admins have told me to search before posting - this is mine , SEARCH BEFORE YOU POST FALSE INFORMATION...

 

[snowborder714]

So are you trying to tell me that instead of using the narrowband sim in the software that the user should be using the LC-1's narrowband sim output?

If so, this is neither correct or incorrect. It can be done both ways. I prefer to use the software as it's less wiring (only need to wire in the wideband signal wire) and a few clicks of a mouse. But if people prefer to use the LC-1's narrowband output, then they're free to wire it in to the front o2 input. Make note that you have v2.5, which does not allow you to do narrowband sim - only v3 allows has this feature.


Or are you trying to say that no narrowband signal (via LC-1 or software) is necessary when you have a wideband in the front o2 spot?

If so, I'd challenge you to try and run your car without any narrowband signal.


In this specific case, the OP already stated he was doing narrowband sim in the software, which tells me he didn't wire up the LC-1's narrowband sim output wire. So I kept with his current attack and had it activated through the software.

Long story short I was forced to drive my car with an uncalibrated lc-1 hooked up, I have my lc-1 wired to where my o2 sensor is so I could eliminate my front o2 and this was done through link, and did so for about 35-40miles.

If I missed the point of your post, then feel free to explain it to me more thoroughly. I definitely don't want to be posting bad info. However, I think I've been correct in everything I've posted thus far in this thread.

 

[dsmtalon2008]

So are you trying to tell me that instead of using the narrowband sim in the software that the user should be using the LC-1's narrowband sim output?

If so, this is neither correct or incorrect. It can be done both ways. I prefer to use the software as it's less wiring (only need to wire in the wideband signal wire) and a few clicks of a mouse. But if people prefer to use the LC-1's narrowband output, then they're free to wire it in to the front o2 input. Make note that you have v2.5, which does not allow you to do narrowband sim - only v3 allows has this feature.


In this specific case, the OP already stated he was doing narrowband sim in the software, which tells me he didn't wire up the LC-1's narrowband sim output wire. So I kept with his current attack and had it activated through the software.





If I missed the point of your post, then feel free to explain it to me more thoroughly. I definitely don't want to be posting bad info. However, I think I've been correct in everything I've posted thus far in this thread.

Oh....? I wonder how I did the combined fuel trim auto adjust function and the tps adjust with my v2.5... I must just be a genius huh? Or that anyone that knows anything about link and has v2.5 knows that you can use v3 software JUST FINE with v2.5 hardware and still use some of the v3 functions.

:shrug: this guys waaaaaaaaaaaaay to smart for me

 

[snowborder714]

Did you read my statement? I made it specifically about narrowband sim, which is not a feature available while you have a v2.5 chip.

Yes, some features (wizards, TPS adjust, etc.) are software based, and do not come from the code on the chip. I never said ALL of v3's features are unavailable to v2.5 users.


I'm still interested on where you were going with the narrowband thing, as you really didn't answer my question.

 

[Jon91TSi]

Jeopardy music........

 

[dsmtalon2008]

I see no question.... there is a narrow band (.1-1.1 volt) signal and a wideband signal already programmed into the lc1. You connect the yellow (.1-1.1 volt) signal wire into the wire that goes to the ecu that receives the signal normally from the front o2 sensor... you then have to do NOTHING in dsmlink for the car to run just fine. If you want to log the wideband then yes you will need to set it up in link so it knows what kind of signal (and to whatever input you select) that specific input is going to be expecting to see so it in turn knows what to display.

Also... the OP is full of shit if he said hes running narrowband sim in dsmlink as I was the first to setup his dsmlink program remotely via the phone and the car ran just fine - deeming this issue as a hardware (or parts if you will) failure/problem - and all this is granted he did not make changes from the initial setup I gave him that worked.