Someone with LC-1 knowledge.

[TSi Kid]

Did you read my statement? I made it specifically about narrowband sim, which is not a feature available while you have a v2.5 chip.

Yes, some features (wizards, TPS adjust, etc.) are software based, and do not come from the code on the chip. I never said ALL of v3's features are unavailable to v2.5 users.

I have v3 full. And dsmtalon is the on who was helping me setup link so he's going to know the most about what was done.

 

[snowborder714]

I see no question.... there is a narrow band (.1-1.1 volt) signal and a wideband signal already programmed into the lc1. You connect the yellow (.1-1.1 volt) signal wire into the wire that goes to the ecu that receives the signal normally from the front o2 sensor... you then have to do NOTHING in dsmlink for the car to run just fine. If you want to log the wideband then yes you will need to set it up in link so it knows what kind of signal (and to whatever input you select) that specific input is going to be expecting to see so it in turn knows what to display.

Also... the OP is full of shit if he said hes running narrowband sim in dsmlink as I was the first to setup his dsmlink program remotely via the phone and the car ran just fine - deeming this issue as a hardware (or parts if you will) failure/problem - and all this is granted he did not make changes from the initial setup I gave him that worked.

I see what you're saying, and I then blame the OP on bad wording which has confused me. His statement from his first post:

I have my lc-1 wired to where my o2 sensor is so I could eliminate my front o2 and this was done through link

That indicates that the narrowband sim was done in the software, and not using the yellow native narrowabnd wire. My bad.

 

[TSi Kid]

That indicates that the narrowband sim was done in the software, and not using the yellow native narrowabnd wire. My bad.

So then what is my problem for this setup?

 

[snowborder714]

If you ran the car with the sensor in the exhaust but not plugged into the LC-1 controller (i.e. the sensor is not getting power), then you may have killed the sensor.

If not, the LC-1 unit is dead.

 

[dsmtalon2008]

Use a stock sensor to test if its a sensor issue like I said last week. If it runs with stock sensor then its a bad wbo2 sensor and you need to get another. Need to make sure to reconnect the stock front o2 input if you cut it instead of splicing into it with the yellow wire. If the stock sensor works and you get a new wbo2 sensor and it still dont work then the lc1 itself is fried.

Ninja'd

 

[TSi Kid]

Use a stock sensor to test if its a sensor issue like I said last week. If it runs with stock sensor then its a bad wbo2 sensor and you need to get another. Need to make sure to reconnect the stock front o2 input if you cut it instead of splicing into it with the yellow wire. If the stock sensor works and you get a new wbo2 sensor and it still dont work then the lc1 itself is fried.

Ninja'd

Sickkkkk, yeah I know about testing the sensor. But if link is setup properly then the sensor being bad is the only thing it could be right?

 

[snowborder714]

Link has nothing to do with your problem at this point, since you have the yellow wire of the LC-1 hooked up to your front o2 sensor input. This is all on the LC-1.

It can either be the wideband sensor (easily fixed - go buy a new one at Auto Zone for $50) or the LC-1 (black box controller which would need to be sent back to Innovate for fixing/replacing).

 

[TSi Kid]

It can either be the wideband sensor (easily fixed - go buy a new one at Auto Zone for $50) or the LC-1 (black box controller which would need to be sent back to Innovate for fixing/replacing).

What exact sensor do I ask them for? Because I tried talking to someone and couldn't figure it out.

 

[snowborder714]

The part number is 17014 (Bosch sensor). It'll probably come up for a VW.

 

[dsmtalon2008]

Do you have the little light hooked up they sent with you? If so that SHOULD be able to tell you if its a sensor BEFORE you buy another sensor and destroy it to. If not then well... its basically a roll of the dice. If no lights come on there is a high chance the lc1 itself is toast and there is no need in possibly destroying another sensor.

 

[TSi Kid]

Do you have the little light hooked up they sent with you? If so that SHOULD be able to tell you if its a sensor BEFORE you buy another sensor and destroy it to. If not then well... its basically a roll of the dice. If no lights come on there is a high chance the lc1 itself is toast and there is no need in possibly destroying another sensor.

I calibrated it fine though, everything the book said the light would do it did. I'll give it another recalibration before buying another one so you'll be getting a call saturday morning

 

[snowborder714]

The light isn't blinking a pattern after warming up though, is it? Mine blinked 8 in a row when my sensor was going/dead. If you notice no repeatable pattern, then it might be the unit and not the sensor.

 

[TSi Kid]

The light isn't blinking a pattern after warming up though, is it? Mine blinked 8 in a row when my sensor was going/dead. If you notice no repeatable pattern, then it might be the unit and not the sensor.

Because I live in an apartment next to my college I leave my talon at my parents so I can work on it so I am unable to check as of now. But as far as I remember it did exactly everything that the online procedure said to do.

Are there any diagnosis lights besides the one you mentioned that tell if it is bad or not?

And by warmed up, do you mean you but the key on on and just let it sit there? And yours would blink 8 in a row, stop, then blink 8 again?