Some ideas to avoid GM Maf/Maf-t

[jjgrizz73]

Hey guys, right now I have a 3.5" GM Maf with Maf-t setup with a Evo VIII ecu. I do NOT like the fact that its running a constant air intake temp which messes with my tune horribly in the summer between night and day. Whats the best thing for me to do? Go to evo8 maf, wait for speed density patch to be finished on ecuflash? Not really sure I just have a feeling this Maf-t isnt the proper setup...

 

[bastarddsm]

Hey guys, right now I have a 3.5" GM Maf with Maf-t setup with a Evo VIII ecu. I do NOT like the fact that its running a constant air intake temp which messes with my tune horribly in the summer between night and day. Whats the best thing for me to do? Go to evo8 maf, wait for speed density patch to be finished on ecuflash? Not really sure I just have a feeling this Maf-t isnt the proper setup...

Your right the maft is a hack...left over from the days when we had nothing better. I'd ###### rip the evo8 maf, untill you can get SD

 

[dsmusmc]

MAF-T's suck and have gave me and several people I know nothing but problems. If your dead set on the EVO8 ecu then SD is well worth the wait.

 

[jjgrizz73]

well heres my thing, the dsm is off the road until next spring...so im just searching for ideas. SD should be ready by then, patches have already been released and tuned upon. Most likely this is the best way to go instead of throwing out ~100$ for evo maf, I just cant really believe how many people run this and its basically a patch over...i cant see how anyone pushing over the limits of a 2g or evo8 maf would honestly want to run this crap

Its not that Im dead set on the evo ecu, but its installed and tuning is great with it i like it alot just I think the maf-t is really messing up the car.

 

[Sam@RRE]

The GM maf works pretty well once calibrated. Thats the trick, once calibrate. The reason you don't need an AIT is because it read airflow directly, not karmen which is a count based off of turbulence, and then the AIT comp is applied to it and Baro comp is applied to it. I had the same problem with the GM up until I dialed it in perfectly. It out of the box is Way off and the instructions to 'set it to zero' is totally wrong. Used Link back when I was still on V2 to dial it in. Once dialed it ran just as well and as consistant as my 2G maf. Drove it in the summer and winter, here in socal. Trips to Vegas with 0 humidity and 114* weather and it was fine. But if you saw my MAF comp table you would of seen how far off that thing was before calibrations. Only issue I had with it was beyond 26psi on a 16G the signal got really choppy and got hard to keep afr's consistent. It would go lean or rich from pull to pull on the dyno without me making any changes to the fuel map. Could of been just that sensor, seen 2G mafs do this too at a certain point. With V3 allotting hz based airflow smoothing I was able to dial out the choppy signal and it worked pretty well. Only reason I switched to SD was to beta test it and get my hands dirty tuning my car again. But before the SD switch my car was consistent and drove every day, the same way, whether I was cruising or trying to blow it up.

Note, none of the calibrations were done in the MAFT box itself, the knobs on it were useless.
Not hootin and tooting the Link bandwagons bell (I pretty much gave birth to the evo8 ecu thing) you just got to spend time to calibrate the airflow signal to match what the stock 2G ecu would at a given load/rpm.

BTW how much boost are you pushing on that 50trim, really don't see why you'd need anything more than the 2G maf. I pushed a 2G maf to 34psi on a 50trim on Sunoco110. Never did I overrun it. The car actually stayed very consistent from pull to pull. If you don't believe me, I'll post the dyno run file. Unless you have something else one your agenda (JDM BOV VENT Vtec YO!) you really dont need the GM or SD for your setup.

 

[jjgrizz73]

But using the Maf-t to calibrate it alone back to ecu is crap imo. How does using the Maf-t allow for those changes when NOT using the link??

No, my 2g maf I had really wasnt working well...very bad idle and screwy rpms at idle along with mixed AFR's. I decided since a larger holset was in my future to just buy this setup instead of switcing stuff when I got my intercooler setup. SD is probably going to be the best bet over the MAF, and really not that expensive.

 

[Sam@RRE]

where you using a hacked 2G maf? Also what kind of cams. I've noticed all cars with BC cams would run really lean and irratic at idle. But a 2g MAF with all honey combs in it, and fuel trims dialed in. The car should idle just perfect (well as perfect as can be with cams if you have em) The MAFT box is useless for calibrations. I just set it so that the Raw signal out would be linear with no spikes or drops when it would switch from idle, low, mid to high. Then used Mafcomp tables to get boostest values to match logged boost via a MAP sensor. Another way could be to adjust your maf scaling so that whatever value you put into your fuel tables is what happens on wideband.

If you are having trouble with dialing in your 2G maf or a GM maf, you'll have a ball dialing in a VE table.

 

[knochgoon24]

SD is already out and available on the Evo 8 Ecu.

No more waiting needed.

 

[the_mork]

SD has been "done" for a long while. There is still some hit or miss problems with jumpy IPWs for some people but this isn't a big deal IMO and should be way less of an issue than with your GM MAF tune.

The only thing that isn't finished for SD is a nice clear writeup but I wouldn't expect one any time soon. Simply go and read the links to jcsbanks speed density patches because at this point reading that thread should teach you everything you need to know. If you have troubles or questions just send me a PM or ask on the evo boards.

 

[jjgrizz73]

I am aware that people are running the SD setup, right now Im not converting it over because the front diff is blown so logging/tuning is impossible plus winter is coming. My buddy I have tuning my car with ECUFlash is now converting his evo8 over to SD so I will follow suit.

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

The GM maf works pretty well once calibrated. Thats the trick, once calibrated.

BINGO. I've seen an easy 50% pass/fail with people using the maft setup. The fail is all the people who throw it on and expect it to work perfectly then complain about it not working and then proceed to bash it whenever it's mentioned. Also ditto on the knobs being useless, on a stock setup with the knobs zero'd out it's fine with a stock ecu but for tuning, leave it zero'd and go with link or ostrich for changing a/f.