biglady112
20+ Year Contributor
- 1,975
- 559
- May 20, 2004
-
Commerce City,
Colorado
Compression is not his problem. I live at altitude and mine is 95-100psi across the board and my car runs just fine.
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You can wire in the Map sensor to any open ECU input See here... the MDP input will work fine...
But, I seem to remember you saying that you had a ECMLink GM Maf cable in you other thread? if so the Cable has break outs that are run through buffers an that would probably be the easiest route since you could continue to run the GM Maf an since it's already dialed in with it.
An you won't have to worry about doing This<-- click or or getting a Buffer if you don't run the Map to the MDP since they are built in like when running a sensor to the Baro input with out the cable...
So, What exactly did you buy from Ecmlink?
Are you getting This map sensor from them? I don't see the Omni 4 bar on the site... It must be that one...I could have swore it use to say something like Omni before it when I bought it?
EDIT: Omnipower 4-bar MAP-MITS-4BR or MAP-GM-4BR (4 bar)
I guess if you call 3 wire hooking up 3 wires "doing some wiring that I wouldn't otherwise have to do" that's true but you can also switch over to SD while still running the GM maf... whitch can make building a VE map easier if you haven't Before.
See Here...
I guess ill still hook it up. So earlier you were saying to tap into those wire with the MDP connector on the end of it but not to plug it back into its original spot? So do I just zip tie it to something (the connector I mean so its not just flopping around)? Also Ive never heard of Vampire taps...are those just the little claps that cut into the wire cover to make a connection and are they available at any auto parts store?
I guess it really depends what parts you have laying around an if your getting a GM style map sensor you can pick up from a million cars in junk yards the harness to hardwire it into the MDP... I have the map sensor you linked above from ecmlink already
As far as the NLTS not doing anything WTF really?
I know it would improve track time, he was referring to actual acceleration...even after the other things improved the car still always took around 2.6 sec to get from 70 to 90 MPH
I guess ill still hook it up. So earlier you were saying to tap into those wire with the MDP connector on the end of it but not to plug it back into its original spot? Yes
So do I just zip tie it to something (the connector I mean so its not just flopping around)? If you feel it's necessary I guess
Also Ive never heard of Vampire taps...are those just the little claps that cut into the wire cover to make a connection and are they available at any auto parts store? Yes
I'll try to help with you other questions later.
But I'm logging off an walking out the door right now...
You just can cut the harness off an wire(solder) it directly that would be the most Ideal method an what I would do... if you looking for something more temp. since you have the plug in play harness(waste of money in my eyes(unless you plan on going back to a Maf) the way you described would work as a temporary solution though no Ideal.
Sounds like a pre-turbo exhaust leak. Check to make sure your exhaust manifold gasket is good, and your manifold to turbo gasket is good. I'm having the same problem with my 16g and i doesn't hit full boost til about 4100 rpm. So I started up the car and ran my hand around the mating surface of the manifold and turbo, and sure enough I could feel a huge leak in the back. Hope this helps.
I was reading a tread yesterday of a fellow dsmer putting down 671 awhp with a 6262 ball bearing unit I knew that something was wrong. I have a 6465 billet series ball bearing unit rated at 81lbs/min I should be putting down similar numbers. So I decided to rip the turbo manifold off the car. I had a bad leak where the turbo and manifold met as well as a leak on runners 3 and 4
I could not hear the leak because my car is so loud. I disconnected my wastgate and still could not make over 29lbs of boost. My turbo was seeing 1lbs of boost around 4000 rpm and 29lbs around 6500 rpm. I ordered new gaskets today. I also am having a machine shop surface the manifold the turbo housing and the turbo flange on the manifold to ensure everything is straight when she goes back together. Hope this help OP!I plugged up my exhaust from the back to check for leaks and I couldn't find any. I will go ahead and pull it all apart again just in case. Thanks for the post.
Did you just order OEM gaskets? If not what kind of gaskets did you order and where did you order them from?

I was wondering if that is what you went with. I used the copper exhaust manifold gasket from them before (a long long time ago) and it worked out fine. I dont think they sold all of these back then though. I will go ahead and change them all out just in case. Thanks again.
read here.Okay I will be in business as soon as my other stuff come in. I picked up manifold from maching shop today.