Should I get this clutch?

[DGST97]

I’m wondering if I should get this clutch due to that my reverse & 2nd gear went out

 

[pauleyman]

Never heard of it and clutch won't fix your problems

 

[DGST97]

You think? I feel like the clutch it s going out?..

 

[pauleyman]

Unless your clutch is not releasing it is not the cause of your problems. Typically a clutch won't grab if it's "going out". What are your symptoms?

 

[ChessmoDSM]

If reverse and 2nd are out I would look at the transmission internally, it sounds like some bad synchros or something along those lines, not the clutch.. In relation to the clutch always buy from a known Vendor (ACT, Southbend ect) unless you just want to stick a stock back in, if so go OEM..

 

[Vegas Smith]

I’m wondering if I should get this clutch due to that my reverse & 2nd gear went out

If the clutch were the problem you would most likely have more problems than just 2nd and reverse going out. Check out shift linkages to make sure everything is moving freely, maybe rebleed the clutch hydraulic lines. If none of that works, it's probably a transmission problem.

 

[DGST97]

The clutch isn’t going into 2nd & reverse

 

[twicks69]

If you are having issues with 2nd and reverse, you are typically having other issues internally in the transmission or in the engine bay with another variable.

Can you shift into 2nd or reverse with the car running at any rpm? Can you shift into 2nd and reverse with the car off?

If it actually is a clutch issue and you are dragging the clutch currently, lets try and diagnose the problem a little bit.

1. Where is the pedal engagement and disengagement window when you push the pedal down from the full up position? Is it disengaging high on the pedal? Is it making a grinding noise when you are pushing down the pedal if you push further down past the initial disengagement point? Is the clutch not fully disengaging when you fully depress the pedal?

2. Have you fully inspected all of your clutch hydraulic system for fluid contamination, leakage, seepage, corrosion points, air leaks, etc.? Have you pulled the boot at the clutch master cylinder side by the pedal assembly? Have you adjusted your clutch master cylinder adjustment rod to adjust the disengagement range of the clutch? Have you pulled the boot on the slave cylinder and inspected for leakage? Have you torn down either the master or slave cylinder and fully inspected the components for a failed seal or damaged bore or piston? Are you still running the factory soft line and accumulator before the slave cylinder?

3. What clutch is currently in the car? how is it acting? Is it slipping? Is it disengaging really high? Is it not disengaging enough when you push the pedal down fully? Is it disengaging in the middle, then it doesn't disengage if you push it down all the way? What is the range for the window of disengagement?

4. Have you checked your bellhousing mount bolts (4x 14mm head bolts attaching transmission to engine block, and 1x rear facing 12mm bolt on the back of the block into the transmission behind the starter).

5. Have you checked your shift cable bracket bushings and bolts (are they worn out or loose)?

6. Have you checked the shift selector assembly and shift cables and shift cable retainer clips in the engine bay? Does the transmission shift selector lever arm still have the counterweight on it or is it cut off? Inspect the range of motion of your shift cables going through all gears to see if there is a binding issue or damage issue or a contact issue with the shift lever counterweight hitting your intake pipe or anything like that. Shifting into 2nd and reverse have the lever moving away from the transmission and towards the radiator / intake pipe location so if you have a contact issue that will cause shifting issues. A bent shift cable or missing retainer spring clip or loose shift cable retainer bracket will also cause these shifting issues.

7. If all of these things check out, then we have to start looking at transmission internals. When the intermediate shaft tapered roller bearings wear out this will cause the shaft to have excessive bearing endplay and will cause shifting issues when the 1/2 hub gets excessively worn down causing it to flop around on the shaft from excessive gap on the 1st gear side. If your 1/2 slider is worn out on the dog engagement teeth for the reverse idler gear to engage or the reverse idler gear teeth are worn / flat spotted it will have shifting issues into reverse. If your 1/2 slider is excessively worn on the 2nd gear side along with worn out 2nd gear dog engagement teeth and worn synchro and worn 1/2 shift fork you will have shifting issues in 2nd as well. These are all common issues with intermediate shaft tapered bearings getting worn out. As well, regarding reverse, the reverse wave spring can get excessively worn and lose its spring tension and will cause shifting issues in reverse as well as wearing out the reverse synchro and reverse cone on the 5th gear cover causing reverse synchro issues and a worn 5/R slider engagement teeth. Both of these issues can also be caused by a dragging clutch, but you typically also see 3rd/4th synchros having wear issues too.

Either way, you might be dealing with more than just a simple clutch replacement. And I would strongly recommend not using a crappy Ebay clutch. Buy a quality clutch like a South Bend Clutch, or Competition Clutch or an ACT clutch, etc. Use an OEM TOB if you use an ACT clutch.