Shep Transmission issues

[DiamondStarAwd]

Just bought the car two days ago. Shifting it is very very rough.

Its really notchy and I believe has a short shifter. Gears are very close.

From a stop it takes some real effort to go into 1st. If im rolling at 20 mph or so it goes in much easier

All gears are really notchy and it just doesn't feel smooth.

It NEVER wants to go into reverse without grinding to high heaven. I have to shove it in 2nd and 3rd multiple times before that will happen.

Now the odd thing is if I start the car up in reverse with the clutch all the way to the floor, it still catches and moves just a little bit. It's not fully disengaging, but its only in reverse.

I adjusted the pedal as far as I could, so far that the rod fell out of the C clamp and it took me an hour to thread it back on becuase I damaged the threads when it fell off.

so far ive

1) adjusted clutch - no fix
2) bleed clutch - no fix
3) checked for play in clutch pedal- minimal if all, have to really really tug to get movement.

Next step.

I have red line heavy shock fluid on the way and am giong to change the fluid asap. This transmission should not be shifting as crappy as it does.

If that doesnt work I am going to check the movement of the slave rod, look to see if the short shifter is getting caught.

I do not know why it would only catch in reverse and not all the other gears. Hopefully this fluid smoothens out the shifting.

Car has a act2600 and a shep stage 2 transmission as well as a steel braided clutch line.

 

[crazy_skier]

i'm having the exact same problems with my 2600 except i'm on an oem tranny (good thing the car is parked and getting the 2.4 installed and I recently installed a new master and slave, could either be bad) oh and sorry for thread stealing but they are the same issue i'm guessing

 

[SleepingTsi94]

Id check the master see if its leaking inside the car also. I know I had some problems getting into reverse and other gears and took a couple time and I replaced the master and the slave and fixed the problem right up.

 

[selmerguy]

How does the car shift when it is off? Do you have all the gears? The reason I ask is because it sounds like your clutch is bad or needs shimming on the pivot bolt. I am going through the same problem with my new XTD stage 4 clutch. If you can put it into reverse, have the clutch down, then start the car and it moves it sounds like a clutch problem to me.

 

[snox135]

Hate to say this but everything I hear about Shep tranny's has been good, either they lied to you about it being a Shep or it has been severly abused. Because it should not be hard to shift. But the rough shifting may be caused by the clutch not disengaging all the way.

Have you read through the tech. bulletins on ACT's website?
http://www.advancedclutch.com/support/techbulletins.asp

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

It is a rebuilt transmission. The case is shiny and clean. The car goes into gear just as hard when the car is off. Theres really no difference. I'm going to try and change the slave cylinder first and see what happens.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Id check the master see if its leaking inside the car also. I know I had some problems getting into reverse and other gears and took a couple time and I replaced the master and the slave and fixed the problem right up.

is the master connected to the rod that attaches to the clutch pedal

 

[selmerguy]

is the master connected to the rod that attaches to the clutch pedal

Yes it is. Check your cables too.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Well I was under there yesterday and it is brand new looking. Also under the hood, tucked away in the corner with the clutch lines going in it, that is brand new as well, all shiny.

I'm going to check cables and change fluid and then re-bleed and re adjust.

 

[SleepingTsi94]

Just because it looks clean does not mean its new. Although if see no signs of any leaking then I guess all is good on the master and move to the slave.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Yea well I know just becuase it looks new doesnt mean it is. But there is no leaking anywhere.

I believe it could be the shifter the guy installed.

 

[TRBOBLU]

Do you know how many miles are on the tranny? I know from experience that Sheps tranny's are real tight and difficult to get into gear for usually the first 1k-2k miles then they are amazing. Ive got a stage 3 on a 2g and a 1g and both did the same thing.

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

What about motor mounts? Is the motor crooked at all? that would cause it perhaps... Just a suggestion....

 

[jrpmp69]

How do you know it was rebuilt by Shep?

Follow this VFAQ to make sure your shifter cables are adjusted correctly.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

he has receipts for the tranny. Going to look at cables now.

 

[luvmygst]

Did you change the pivot ball on the clutch arm? It sound like you re not fully disengageing just because of the grinding in reverse. Check your clutch pedal assembly for play also. If all else fails try the bandaid extended slave rod and see if it helps. (just go get a grade 8 bolt and make one a little longer than the stock one) mabey that will point you in the right direction.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Where is the pivot ball on the clutch arm? Do you mean in the clutch fork? If so, I don't know. Previous owner did it.

No play in the pedal, I pulled on it and didnt move. Maybe 1/16th inch after giving it really a tug.

 

[twicks69]

Are you sure that the clutch is disengaging completely??? You could have a damaged pressure plate.

Also, have you drained the tranny and inspected the fluid? Flush it and replace it with GOOD fluid.

If it is the tranny, then it sounds like alot of stuff damaged. Shift forks, hub/sliders and synchros will be needed for sure. More than likely, it will need a complete rebuild.

Also, a Shep stage 2 tranny should NOT have close ratio gears.

 

[ThingyNess]

It's going to be a clutch issue. There are very few things you can do to a transmission to make all gears be difficult to get into, including grinding in reverse. These are the classic symptoms of a dragging clutch.

I second the idea of trying to get an extended slave cylinder rod, if for no other reason than to test the extra clutch disengagement throw. If the owner saw fit to put a shep rebuilt trans in the car, you can bet it's not the stock clutch, and many aftermarket single-plate clutches are finicky at best when it comes to disengagement.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Well I took apart the center console and indeed there is a " short throw " in there. The damn thing is partially blue.

I'm waiting for my transmission fulid to come in the mail to change it. I will try the extended slave rod trick if that does not fix it. He said theres a act2600 in there as well.

 

[Dream On]

I wouldn't recommend using an extended rod. That isn't the right way to fix the problem. You need to find out what is actually causing it rather than throwing the band aid fix on there.

 

[snox135]

Is your accumulator cylinder bypassed? I know of several people that have done this with the 2600 or 2900 on 2g's and it does help.

 

[luvmygst]

I wouldn't recommend using an extended rod. That isn't the right way to fix the problem. You need to find out what is actually causing it rather than throwing the band aid fix on there.

If the "bandaid" works then you can narrow the problem down to a very few things. Thats why I suggested it. Im not saying I would run it permantly, although it does work and alot of people do it. It def. sounds like the clutch dragging though.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Is your accumulator cylinder bypassed? I know of several people that have done this with the 2600 or 2900 on 2g's and it does help.

excuse my noobness but I'm just getting into the drivetrain part of the dsm, i dont know where or what that is, I will search

 

[Dream On]

excuse my noobness but I'm just getting into the drivetrain part of the dsm, i dont know where or what that is, I will search

I think it's the little reservoir just before the slave cylinder. They aren't on 1g's though. When I had disengagement problems, here's my list of what I did:

replace clutch fork and pivot ball (when I did the clutch)
adjust clutch pedal
check and replace slave and master cylinder
SS clutch line
bleed lines

The solution? Ended up being the studs I put in the flywheel that replaced the stock bolts. Yours doesn't sound like that since you can get into some gears, you just aren't getting complete engagement. Pull back the boot on the slave to check for leakage. If you see some, replace it. Where is the clutch fork sitting in relation to the hole it comes out of? It should be angled toward the driver's side a little. If it isn't, then probably the pivot ball is worn and would need replaced or shimmed with washers as some people do. You might also try and get a SS clutch line since it will eliminate that reservoir that we talked about above.