The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

serious turbo decision help please

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

inneed4dsm

15+ Year Contributor
191
1
Sep 16, 2007
Elkhart, Indiana
Hahn Super 16g? or Hahn Super 20g? I'll pretty much leave it at that... i got a apexi N1 DP and Thermal R&D 3" catback and a stock evo fmic with hard pipes, maf translator, 3"maf and intake.. i dont honestly want to mess with tuning so i dont want a million trim turbo (mild exaggeration) about as far as i'd go with tuning is an SAFC or something.. but anyways any problems you see? which one would be better for me.. i dont have a HP goal i just want a nice quick DD that i dont have to work about blowing smoke so thick the person behind me cant see due to tuning issues.. thanks all help is appreciated
 
It is kind of ironic that the EVO3 16g is so highly recommended these days, when a few years back the 50 trim fan boys were pushing that thing like it was crack. Times have changed.
That's because everyone that jumped on the 50-trim bandwagon eventually went back to the tried-and-true Evo III 16G because they were tired of replacing / rebuilding their turbos every 1000-5000 miles. Those things are so fragile to oiling it's not even funny.

Evo III 16G, use a 1G oil supply line to the passenger's side corner of the head, slot the two holes on the 2G's stock oil drain toward center a little, and you won't have to worry about the turbo again unless your engine dies.
 
That's because everyone that jumped on the 50-trim bandwagon eventually went back to the tried-and-true Evo III 16G because they were tired of replacing / rebuilding their turbos every 1000-5000 miles. Those things are so fragile to oiling it's not even funny.

Evo III 16G, use a 1G oil supply line to the passenger's side corner of the head, slot the two holes on the 2G's stock oil drain toward center a little, and you won't have to worry about the turbo again unless your engine dies.

Precisely why I'm hesitant about running a Garrett Ball bearing cartridge. The thought of tossing a non-rebuildable, non-refundable, non-warrantied Garrett CHRA that costs $1000 doesn't inspire alot of confidence.

Any reliability issues with the EVO3 thrust washer? I loved my FP T28, that thing had a 360* thrust washer and it was indestructable over the 8 years I had it.
 
Any reliability issues with the EVO3 thrust washer? I loved my FP T28, that thing had a 360* thrust washer and it was indestructable over the 8 years I had it.
None at all. All Mitsu TD05H thrust plates are 360*.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



I could see how the 360* thrust would definitely be an improvement for the T25/T28 turbos....the main reason these turbo die on stock cars is the 270* thrust plate starts to wear, allows the compressor and turbine wheels to hit the housing (causing uneven wear leading to an unacceptable amount of unbalance)...the vibration then causes the shaft to contact the journal bearings and withing a few hundred miles the turbo is junk.

Some of the upgraded Mitsu rebuild kits come with a larger thrust collar and compressor seal collar which spreads the wear and support areas of the thrust plate over a larger area of the plate, offering greater support. This is overkill for 14B's or most 16G's running under 15psi, but once you start to push a 16G past it's limit or even what a 20G can handle under normal operation, the larger thrust collar and compressor seal collar are welcome additions adding even greater durability.

90% of the time, by the time you see smoke at the tailpipe the turbo is trashed. Seldom can you catch it enough in advance to save the turbo.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Its really knowing i got what i have with the evo and plan on having it for a long time. Love the posts on this thing i wasnt sure which way to go before i bought it. Now i that i have it, im still in happy.
 
so will i need to get a eprom ecu before i can send it to keydiver to get it chipped? and after its chipped will I need to get d link or some other tuning program if i was to make adjustments for the launch control?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top