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Street Build Resurrection of the Red 90 Talon

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I run DynaTech on both fast cars. The ignition retard helps build boost on the auto car and I've wired that box into my 1990 that folks say can't be done. They have worked great for me at 40lbs of boost.
There are many articles with pros and cons, but I'm on the pro side. Not needed for stockish cars as the Mitsu ignition is still very hot as you mention. Thanks for following along the "journey"!
Marty
 
And this 3 row model.
I run Champion in both Z28s of the boys and love them.
Thanks Sean for the alternative source!
 
And this 3 row model.
I run Champion in both Z28s of the boys and love them.
Thanks Sean for the alternative source!
I thought the link had all 3... they have a 1-2 and 3 row available!

Tech fail today LOL
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Ok here is the only mod I did just to make sure the tank didn't rub. I could have lowered the 2 tank supports on the bottom by a fraction of an inch and it would have slid under the lip of the radiator support. I just squared off the supports rounded edge and curled it under. I am going to clearance the passenger side hold down to make sure it doesn't rub on the upper tank to. Just taking precautions and letting everyone else see. :thumb:
I took pictures of the MitsumotoX in the 92 to compare to. It just BARELY fits under the radiator support now that I look at! I may manipulate the lower supports and see if it tucks under. It only needs a eighth of an inch.
Marty

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Ok here is the only mod I did just to make sure the tank didn't rub. I could have lowered the 2 tank supports on the bottom by a fraction of an inch and it would have slid under the lip of the radiator support. I just squared off the supports rounded edge and curled it under. I am going to clearance the passenger side hold down to make sure it doesn't rub on the upper tank to. Just taking precautions and letting everyone else see. :thumb:
I took pictures of the MitsumotoX in the 92 to compare to. It just BARELY fits under the radiator support now that I look at!
Marty

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If you cut out the lower front support and weld in some angle you can go under the lip completely... picture courtesy of Morrison!

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If you cut out the lower front support and weld in some angle you can go under the lip completely... picture courtesy of Morrison!

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I can see where that could even allow for a puller fan on the drivers side in some cases too. If you would have JUST TOLD me before I got it all in.....come on man ROFL
A note on the lower radiator hose, it is very close to the front cross tube in the stock location but it will be just fine. Installing new hoses and bleeding clutch and brakes later this afternoon. To pretty out to "work" all day!
 
I can see where that could even allow for a puller fan on the drivers side in some cases too. If you would have JUST TOLD me before I got it all in.....come on man ROFL
A note on the lower radiator hose, it is very close to the front cross tube in the stock location but it will be just fine. Installing new hoses and bleeding clutch and brakes later this afternoon. To pretty out to "work" all day!
I didnt do mine because you have to rewire the harness that runs there.... and one thing I cant do is weld
 
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Ok, per the pics in post #155, looks like the 3-row Champion top tank is about 0.7" thicker than the 2-row Koyo top tank.
So that fits with the idea that the core is about 0.6" thicker.
Good!

it's good to know there's other options out there. And isn't Champion made in America?
I don't see anything on Champion's official web site that says where they are manufactured.
Maybe the ones Marty has say right on them someplace where they are made. A sticker or something. Maybe on the box?
There's nothing jumping right out at me about where the Radiator Express radiators are made either.

I wouldn't assume anything about it. Take a look at this sticker on the bottom of my Koyo. I bought this rad way back in 2006 and already they were making them in Indonesia!
Koyo new radiator for the Talon March 10, 2006 DSCN0658.JPG


Back in 2005 I bought some heavy duty jack stands directly from "Professional Hydraulic Jacks" who advertised "Made in Wisconsin" on every page of their web site.
After about a month I started calling them on the phone to get explained to me why they weren't shipped yet. They kept lying to me about it, and about where they were being made. Finally on the 3rd call I got them to admit that the jacks were "held up in customs". LOL
Sure enough, the paper sticker on them says "Made in China".
They are actually good though, low profile when all the way down, and heavy duty, which is what I wanted.

Professional Hydraulic Jacks - made in China, July 2005.JPG
 
Look down low. Made in C-land.
I still like it. :)
Cooling system is now buttoned up with new sensor and hoses/clamps. I'll have to wait til Monday to do the wiring I want to do for fan activation.
Bleeding hydraulics tomorrow.

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Here is the slight mod to the passenger hold down. Not much, just didn't want it pressing on a seam.
I gathered up fan wiring components today. I will do some pre-assembly tomorrow. :thumb:
6ga from battery to relay to extra fuse box, then 10ga out to fans and FP.
More to come.

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So I bet to most eyes, these look like the same pictures but I got the WG line and turbo oil feed/filter all attached to the radiator stock fan legs with zip ties. I also got the coil pack, PTU, tach filter AND a PCV fitting installed into or on the EVO III intake manifold. Those used to just "hang out" in the engine bay so I am glad to make them more permanent and correct. I wish I had some 90* plug wire boots, I would change the straight boots out. I may see about getting some so the plug wires don't go up and touch the hood. We'll see. Anyway, these are not duplicate pictures, just subtle little things (like getting rid of the injector resistor box and that stupid RED wire on my intake that went NOWHERE, ROFL Oh yeah, I got the old B&M oil cooler out (it was damp) and a new one installed. I will go look for some screen wire today for rock protection since someone thought it was a good "mod" to cut out the center of the original rock guard. Jeeze.....:notgood:
Waiting on my 120a/12v relay and aux fuse box to get here today.
Thanks for following me along. If I miss something that anyone notices, please bring it up!
Pops

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Just as I am ready to walk out the door to go to town for small parts, the mail showed up, with my big relay and fuse box for the Spals and the fuel pump.
I love them! Now to get them installed. That will be today's project! :thumb:

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Look down low. Made in C-land.
I still like it. :)
Cooling system is now buttoned up with new sensor and hoses/clamps. I'll have to wait til Monday to do the wiring I want to do for fan activation.
Bleeding hydraulics tomorrow.

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I figured. Still looks great though!

Yup. Wouldn't keep me from buying one.
Thanks for the photo!

Same. I don’t go out of my way buy American or try to “only” buy American (impossible anyway) but if they WERE made here that woulda been cool. We build some pretty great stuff here in the ol’ USA.


Appreciate all the input guys.


So all jokes aside, how’d the steroids treat you? I have REALLY bad reactions to them(anger to the point of salivation/unexplainable rage) the few times I’ve had the shots or the pills. They seemed to do you just fine though!
 
I finished the regimen today. It gradually decreased down to 1 pill today and I'm done. Got a lot of shit done! Elbow isn't aching but I have been off work, which involves me using that arm/elbow to sort mail and put mail into P O Boxes so it's very repetitive. I feel very good but let's see in a few days, and off the meds. I appreciate the concern, I worked thru it for the last 4 months and finally decided to talk to the dr about it. :)
I did intentionally USE them the 1st day (6 pills...wooo) and assembled the rest of the mechanical stuff :nono: so now all I need to do is the little stuff, while I try to rest that arm. :thumb:
Electrical stuff and belts are all easy stuff.
 
So I bet to most eyes, these look like the same pictures ...... Oh yeah, I got the old B&M oil cooler out (it was damp) and a new one installed. I will go look for some screen wire today for rock protection since someone thought it was a good "mod" to cut out the center of the original rock guard.

Actually the 5th picture there shows me better than any previous how that oil cooler is located in there.
It's funny, I don't remember even a little what the original rock guard looked like in there, for the sidemount intercooler.
But if anybody happened to have a shot of it, I'd be interested in seeing it.
 
The original is a louvered piece of plastic and my car still has the outside edge, some dumbass just cut the louvered area out. :banghead:
Good thing I bought screen wire today, along with screws, washers, wire, terminals and I'm sure other stuff but I got the fans wired up all but 2 hot wires. Take a look.....my phone died or I would have a picture with the air breather on too. It all fits nice!
I'll be putting loom on when its done.
Marty

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Yeah, and my louvers got STOLEN..... ROFL
 
Ya know, I bet some get tore out by oversize wheels and tires. I still have stock size on but the drivers side has had contact so mine probably got "Rubbed Out" by the mob! ROFL:cool:
My screen wire will attach well to the frame I still have left though. :thumb:
 
Ya know, I bet some get tore out by oversize wheels and tires. I still have stock size on but the drivers side has had contact so mine probably got "Rubbed Out" by the mob! ROFL:cool:
My screen wire will attach well to the frame I still have left though. :thumb:
That happened to me in the 350z
 
Liquids and belts and, believe it or not, I "think" the car is ready to try and start.
I need to triple check everything and bleed my clutch and rear brakes. Pretty sure that is all that is left. This is starting to get exciting! :)
I am going to try to adhear the screen wire to what is left over of my original splash guard. Not sure what I am going to use yet....epoxy, fiberglass, screws and washers....IDK.
Hopeful for maybe a weekend test fire???:hmm::idontknow:
We'll see.
Stay "Tuned"......
:thumb:

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