ECMlink Request help with fine tuning ECMlink

[RipperXX]

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
no

2). Verified mechanical timing?
yes
3). Verified base timing?
yes
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock
Wire brand and Age: NGK
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK, BR7ES, NA

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:NA
Cylinder 2:NA
Cylinder 3:NA
Cylinder 4:NA

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: adjusted
Throttle Cable: adjusted (slight correction with ECMLink)
TPS:
BISS: set

7). Compression ratio 7.8:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
no

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
no

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):?
Car running:13.5-13.8v at idle

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:42.2psi
Injector Size (cc/min):750cc

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: AEM UEGO
Calibration Date:

13). Type of fuel
Type:93oct
Percent of Ethanol: unknown

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
yes




FINALLY upgraded to ECMLink V3 from DSMLink V2... wow, it connects WAY faster and seems to have a much higher resolution of data capture despite the ECU being otherwise the same! So i'm having to re-tune the car, it's running better than it ever has, even when I had a FMIC on it!

I think I have my idle dialed in well, not sure about cruise as I cant get up to temp in these cold temps for the LTFT Hi to meet criteria. At WOT there's a 10% deviation in my wide band compared to AFRest, Boostest is dead on at least from 5,500rpm to 6,000rpm it seems to taper a bit on the log from 6k to 6.5k where I don't think it did on the gauge. Gauge use's a MAP sensor but i'm not sure if it's compatible to be logged, and I don't have a free input to log it anyway at the moment.

If anyone would be so kind as to look over the log I would be grateful for any advice.

P.S. mods in profile are accurate, peak boost was 23-23.4psi (got to seriously port that waste gate passage)

No boost leaks
base timing is 5* BTDC
no DTC
93octane pump gas
2g timing map loaded via direct access

WOT pull starts @ 382sec, rest of log is idle and cruise

It should be noted, there was zero knock on the pull I did yesterday where the settings appliciable to WOT were the same, what isn't the same is the amount of boost. Yesterday peak was 21-22psi today, 23+ psi, Normally 20psi is the peak, but it would see the cold weather and cold intake temps are generating more exhaust than the external, dumped to atmosphere setup can bypass at the moment due to the WG passage needing to be ported...more.

 

[EGLTAWLN]

It looks like the mafcomp needs some adjustment on the 300-1900hz sliders, right where the sliders dip down on the mafcomp graph. You seem to be flowing more air in that range than the mafcomp table is currently set up for, so you are going lean and the knock sensor doesn't like it.

 

[GST with PSI]

I'll go through the tabs here...

For starters, adjust your TPS:

TThe ECMLink TPS adjustment feature has become a pet peeve of mine. Nearly every log I look at, somebody is using it incorrectly. I strongly believe if you need to adjust the TPS offset or TPS scale more than a value of 2 on either scale, you need to go back and make a manual adjustment to your TPS. You are at a 8 offset, on a 101% scale. That tells me the natural sweep of your TPS sensor is out of wack, and you need to go manually adjust it. On my personal cars, I'm happy when this feature is either disabled, or I'm at 0 and 100%...But that's just me.

You may also want to simulate your idle switch. It appears to be working fairly well on your car from the log, but there are some areas where it doesn't always directly correspond to what your TPS is doing. Take a look here, for example. Your TPS is flat, but the idle switch is reading on/off when it should be just on. By simulating the idle switch from the TPS, you're not relying on the mechanical workings of the idle switch. This is also another reason I'm a stickler about the TPS being adjusted properly, as it can affect multiple things, for example, the idle switch if it's being simulated:

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Your global fuel settings look good for your injectors and BFP.

Since you're profile doesn't list what MAF you're on, I'll have to assume you're on a 2G MAF like your log says. You should update your profile with a complete list of mods if you're going to tell people it's accurate.

Your fuel table is far too rich. I shoot for 11.0:1 on pump gas tunes. You are at 9.5, which way too rich. You can grab the fuel table from here if you'd like: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/98...annot-boost-past-20psi.503630/#post-153591818

Your timing table looks fine for now. You did have some knock, though. You may want to pull a few degrees out across the board for safety until you get your fuel and airflow dialed in. You can add it back in later on after the tune is sorted out.

Your MAF comp needs tons of work. However, before I made any changes to it, I'd do another pull with the corrected target AFRs. I'd be willing to bet your WBO2 doesn't even read richer than ~10.0:1, so I doubt the AFR curve you logged is even accurate.

 

[RipperXX]

So if I understand you correctly, your saying I should adjust the maxoct table cells being used to target a AFR above 10:1 then use that data to try to dial in the MAFComp better.

Before I feel comfortable doing that though, I have got to get this boost creep under control. 22-23psi of boost, SMIC and leaner AFR, sounds like a scary adventure.

P.s. and yes it's a 2g MAF. I forgot while my profile on ECMLINK forum is up to date, there were 1 or 2 things not added on tuners. Corrected it.

 

[GST with PSI]

I'm saying swap in the fuel table I linked to and go do another pull.

 

[RipperXX]

Alright, I'll try another 3rd gear pull on the way home from work today when it's not below freezing and post the log. (Having swapped fuel tables with the one you linked too.)

EDIT
Decided once I got to work...I'd go ahead and do a pull. AFR were in the 13s target obviously 11:1, surprisingly it didn't start knocking until 5k rpm or so. I think I let off at 5800rpm. I'll see if I can find WiFi at lunch and post the log.

Couldn't find wifi, but added global, brought it from -43.8 to -40. AFR were Inot the 12s, added airflow to MAFComp from like 800hz on up where the drop was.

Going to do another pull with global at like -38.4 on the way home after bumping dead time a bit. Was 275, I noticed after the global adjustment STFT was -6, so I'll bump dead time to like 290 and do a pull. I'll post all new logs up once I get home, which changes in file title.

 

[RipperXX]

3rd gear WOT pull with the 11:1 AFR maxoct table you supplied GST with Boost, log.2017.01.09-01 3rd gear WOT 11AFR.elg. Wot pull starts at 2085sec

I fiddled around with it a good half hour on the way home and this was the end result.

log.2017.01.09-03 final 3rd gear.elg

P.S. I did switch to the simulated idle switch. I'll try to find time somewhere to adjust the TPS soon.
In that final pull Global is -39.1 and dead time 300 I also got rid of that low spot on the MAFcomp and worked over the front some.

The only bad thing, is my idle "tune" isn't near as well dialed in as it was. I'm not sure if that means I'm off somewhere else, or if I just need to adjust mafcomp at idle more. I ran out of time to mess with it today. But I did finish my coolant overflow at work today... :/

 

[EGLTAWLN]

Mafcomp between 600hz-1700hz still needs some attention. Afratioest and Wideband are very close to the same values since you have gotten rid of the dip you had in the mafcomp graph. A little bit more tweeking around the maf hz points mentioned and you should be done.

 

[GST with PSI]

That pull looks exponentially better than the first one you posted (looking at final 3rd gear log file).

Overall, you need to add fuel from around 600HZ to about 1900HZ.

From 1300HZ to 1900HZ I'd add 5% overall. From 600HZ to 1300HZ reference the WBfactor, and add about 1/3 of whatever the value is.

I'd also pull a degree or two of timing from 5500 RPM on.

Once you've made those adjustments, do another 3rd gear pull and post back. If you're confused about anything I'm saying, let me know and I'll explain further.

Regarding the crappy idle, post and idle log with the car up to temp if you want some help dialing that in. Ideally, you want to drive the car a good bit and let your fuel trims settle so we can see if they are trending rich or lean. Post up 5 min or so of idle log and we can go from there.

 

[RipperXX]

I'll see about getting a factory temp thermostat, otherwise I'll probably have to wait until much later in the week for coolant temps to get over 180*F more often to get more LTFT data...that just study the crap out of the STFT . As of right now they pretty much sit there. I'll take another crack at the idle tune and make the adjustments you suggested and post another log soon.


In regards to "Overall, you need to add fuel from around 600HZ to about 1900HZ" I'm assuming you mean to in that area of airflow flow, tracking the maxoct table, to add fuel to those cells? Or do you mean to just add airflow via MAFComp so the ECU adds more fuel?

Thanks you very much for the help.

EDIT:
Well, I made the changes best I could, added a little fuel via maxoct table and pulled some timing where it was knocking. Added a little airflow in that area where when the turbos spooling up it looked a little lean.

I'll do a pull on the way home and post it.

 

[GST with PSI]

At idle the car should get to temp no matter what, unless your fan is running when it shouldn't be.

 

[RipperXX]

Yeah, at idle it will, soon as I start moving though it drops like a rock back to 180*.

 

[RipperXX]

log.2017.01.10-04 3rd gear WOT.elg

I feel like I got a fairly clean pull here to 7,000rpm. 1.8* knock, I'm sure that SMIC is killing me. Wont be on the car too much longer though I don't think.

I did change deadtime back to 315, also I pulled a little more timing out of a few cells and messed with the mafcomp in the lower range a bit.

 

[GST with PSI]

Log looks good overall. You may want to play with your MAFcomp at spool up to get it to line up a bit better. But, sometimes on a MAF it's a struggle to get things to line up perfectly before airflow and boost begin to level out. I'd say play with it a bit and see if you can get some improvement.

If you're still on a SMIC, that knock likely isn't going away regardless of how much timing you pull. Also, you're going to be limited to what you can do on pump gas running a small turbo like the 16G. Do you have E85 in your area?

Regarding deadtime, it's not going to affect how your car runs at WOT. Deadtime is really only critical at idle. So, unless you're dialing in your idle tune, set your deadtime and leave it alone. If your global fuel is where it should be, and your MAFcomp table is dialed in, you can use your deadtime settings to fine tune your AFRs so that your AFRatioEst and WBO2 line up exactly while idling. When this happens, you'll see a significant improvement in idle quality.

 

[RipperXX]

Yeah I was working on idle a bit after a couple pulls before the final one that got logged.

I'm parking it for now until I can get the creep under control and the FMIC back on.

 

[RipperXX]

Okay, so I have fixed the damage form hitting the deer, save for lining up some gaps better. Installed the VRSF FMIC, tried to do a boost test, I say tried because in my exhausted state I forgot to plug the line to the 1g bov/recirculation valave back on so it kept opening at like 10psi (i stuck a bolt in the line thinking it went to the intake)...but I did discover a few couplings that needed their T bolt camps tightened... so I did. No more knock in 4th gear now yay.

So now im trying to get the AFRest and actual wideband to line up better and Im curious if this is what a boost leak looks like in a tune (compensating for it).

In order to get the expected and actual A/F to match, im having to add in airflow in some areas which is raising my boost estimate beyond actual peak boost. As much as 4psi higher than actual in some points and as little as 1.8 just before 6500rpm. Actual is 20psi btw.

Im at work so I cant post a log, but the fuel ratios are pretty close now in some spots less than 1%. Just curious if this is a classic tail of a boost leak at higher pressures before I go tear off the intake and fire up the compressor etc. when I get home.

I also mounted an aluminum plate between the bottom of the FMIC and the radiator support so air cant just go under the car bypassing the radiator now...Defiantly time to go back to the stock thermostat now as the coolant has a hard time staying above 174*F. Also opened up the hole in the passenger side fender for the factory long route upper pipe which lowered intake temps even more.

And just this morning ordered the BCS and pigtail from ECMLink so I can toss this old as hell Joe P MBC in the parts pile...yay another pain in the ass to get working perfectly (or so I hear). Wondering if I should convert to speed density just to try and free up an input so I can log boost as well...seems like a lot of trouble but being able to log thr wide band (which i am) AND boost would be nice...its annoying that the MAP sensor for the gauge is just sitting there only feeding the gauge information.

 

[RipperXX]

Here's a log, note...I was going up hill...

 

[GST with PSI]

Log looks awesome overall.

Adjust your TPS: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjust-your-tps.509898/

You should tweak your MAF a bit in the 300-700HZ range. Your spool up is lean. However, you may not get it perfect, and may have to settle. I always found it was difficult to get my spoolup tune perfect while I was on a MAF. I'd make the adjustments according to the log, and the bi*** would still be off. All the MAFs I've ever tuned acted funky during spoolup, especially in the lower HZ ranges. But as soon as boost started to stabilize, they seem to work well. Just food for thought. Play with it a bit and see if you can get it to track any better.

Not sure how much boost you're on, but at this point the car is dialed in well enough to start tuning for max power. Start adding timing and boost to taste. I'd probably start with timing, since it's currently set fairly conservative.