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ECMlink Need help with tuning...

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brynden29

20+ Year Contributor
127
0
May 15, 2002
Round Rock, Texas
Hey guys,
Here is the short version of what happened and where I am. I installed my w/b and realized that I was running 13.5 afr at WOT at about 15 psi. Shortly after my stock fuel pump died. I replaced it with a walbro 255, installed a new feed line and return line and installed an Aeromotive fpr, and FIC 750 injectors.

I have been battling idle issues, I am running 43.5 psi and I have to set the deadtime to 660 to get it to idle without dying. I know the wiki says 330. Also, my afr's are worse than they were with the 550's! I am afraid to try any WOT pulls right now. I did a partial pull yesterday and my w/b was around 17:1.

I would love any and all suggestions about my idle tune. I am stumped, and frustrated. I attached an idle log I just took and a partial WOT 3rd gear pull that I did yesterday. Thanks for the help.

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? No
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks? Yes

2). Verified mechanical timing? Yes

3). Verified base timing? Yes

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock coil
Wire brand and Age: Nology
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: 150
Cylinder 2: 150
Cylinder 3: 150
Cylinder 4: 150

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: Yes
Throttle Cable: Yes
TPS: Yes
BISS: Can't get my ISCpostion to stay at 30.

7). Compression ratio: Wiseco 8.3:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring? Nope

9). Any DTC/CEL codes? Nope

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 12
Car running: 12.6

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.5
Injector Size (cc/min): FIC 750
Deadtime: 660

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: Innovate LC-1
Calibration Date: This morning

13). Type of fuel
Type: Premium pump gas
Percent of Ethanol: none

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos? Yes
 

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Just an update:
I pulled the fuel pump this morning (pic attached) and everything seems to be good. I went ahead and re-soldered the power wire. Reinstalled it and it is still the same.

I welcome any and all suggestions. I am thinking that it is not a tuning issue, but a physical issue and I don't know where to start. Thanks!
 

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There has to be something mechanical going on.. we tried adjusting everything that involves tuning with nothing working. Sounds like you need to go over all the basics again including a BLT to rule any new leaks out. With having a basically brand new fuel system something else has to be off.
 
I agree with you. I am just stumped. I think I want to pull the throttle body off, clean it, and seal it all really well.
 
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 12
Car running: 12.6

^this could be a problem. running should be closer to 14, like 13.8v when cold started, and mid 13's after warmed up. this is why you're deadtime is so high, you're compensating for low system voltage. but we'll look at it more later today.
 
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 12
Car running: 12.6

^this could be a problem. running should be closer to 14, like 13.8v when cold started, and mid 13's after warmed up. this is why you're deadtime is so high, you're compensating for low system voltage. but we'll look at it more later today.
i completely missed that... my volts are 14 while driving.. your deadtime tables go off voltage and at 12.6 it shouldnt change much deadtime but can also cause fuel pumps to not throw as much fuel. if you havent rewired the fuel pump yet 12.6 at the battery will be around 11 at the pump.
 
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