2G Replacing clutch line from master cylinder to slave cylinder with ss braided line. Help!!

[Nicg]

I bought a new clutch master cylinder as mine was leaking fluid on the floor from the inside of the cab, I replaced it with a exedy replacement. In the process I stripped out the fitting from the hardline that goes onto the master cylinder due to heavy amounts of locktite on the fitting. I previously installed a ss braided line from the end of the fitting to the slave to remove the accumulator which was super easy. However after installing everything together and adjusting the clutch pedal no pressure came to the clutch due to the actual hardline being bent (on the master) and not making a proper seal -_-

I then purchased a ss braided line from the master to the slave on stm.com. It’s straight forward to remove both fittings and get rid of the original ss line from the slave (that I did earlier) but the amount of bolts and clips on the back of the engine by the firewall is ridiculous and I don’t see a way to properly remove this hardline without cutting it in pieces.

I can replace as is and drive the car however I don’t want a “Bluetooth” hardline floating around. Wondering if anyone has done this before or ran into this and maybe I’m missing something. All the reviews and everything I can find online says it’s super easy but removing the whole hardline on my AWD 2gb is a giant pain and I could use some help as now my car is undrivable and not properly done.

I was a auto tech for 5 years I’ve done tons of these type of repairs and never have I seen something like this routed and this much of pain! Hopefully I’m just overthinking it and one of you guys can give me some insite very frustrated and don’t want to break anything.

I have a 97 Eclipse GSX with 80k miles I’m second owner and this car has been untouched. I’m absolutely shocked on how much locktite was used from factory. (yes I’ve confirmed it’s not paint) please help! I would like to avoid cutting anything if possible

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Its a bit of a pita to do but you can cable tie it to the lines it runs next to or even add new P clamps. I did one not long ago and it can be well hidden and look nice. Bleeding it was a tricky part but in the end it managed to go through and push fluids nicely

 

[Nicg]

Thank you for the response. That’s the plan with the new ss line. However how did you remove the oe steel hardline just cut the end and hit it in the back of the firewall?

 

[chrysler kid]

I just bent the factory line away from the new master, the hose end by the slave is just a rubber hose and has a clip so I removed the hose end by the trans and left everything else on there

The factory line is just really in the corners of the engine bay. If I remember correctly you would need to remove the battery and battery tray to get everything out. I really didn’t want to make it a big job when I went to a stainless line so I left the factory one in there

Also you might as well replace the slave now too, I did the master, then the slave, then the line because everything failed after I put a new part in

 

[Nicg]

Okay thank you good to know. I took everything apart and tried getting the hardline out but it’s pretty crammed and a big pain. I’ll run the new line and get pressure back in the pedal hopefully. I replaced the slave and master so I should be good there. Hopefully I didn’t damage the new master for how much I was pumping it until I found the problem. Would you mind sending me a picture of how you set it up and bent the line at. I didn’t want to have a “Bluetooth” hardline but it is what it is. Did you notice a big difference in the pedal when you routed the new line and got rid of the accumulator?

 

[chrysler kid]

I’ll take a picture later today when I drive the car.

I didn’t notice any difference in pedal feel, if anything the pedal is slightly firmer.

 

[chrysler kid]

Pretty much just moved it over

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[Nicg]

Thanks for the picture. I finished up recently and it’s all routed clean and like that. Turns out the master I bought was bad from out of the box so I replaced and bled it and it works great and feels better. I have to readjust my clutch due to 1st and 2nd gear feeling very sloppy and soft feels like it will pop out of gear. I’m happy with the braided line looks a lot better and feels great without the accumulator

 

[chrysler kid]

Thanks for the picture. I finished up recently and it’s all routed clean and like that. Turns out the master I bought was bad from out of the box so I replaced and bled it and it works great and feels better. I have to readjust my clutch due to 1st and 2nd gear feeling very sloppy and soft feels like it will pop out of gear. I’m happy with the braided line looks a lot better and feels great without the accumulator

Yeah the stainless line can also make it easier to reverse bleed the system. If you unhook the slave and raise the line you can raise the slave and feed the fluid into the slave to gravity bleed the line into the master

 

[Nicg]

Yeah most definitely. Have you ran into any issues with slop in 1st and second gear after an adjust or that job was done. That’s my only issue so far. Have never ran into any issues like this on any car ever

 

[Nicg]

Yeah most definitely. Have you ran into any issues with slop in 1st and second gear after an adjust or that job was done. That’s my only issue so far. Have never ran into any issues like this on any car ever

I’ve worked on many cars and this dsm is a pain in my ass

 

[chrysler kid]

Yeah most definitely. Have you ran into any issues with slop in 1st and second gear after an adjust or that job was done. That’s my only issue so far. Have never ran into any issues like this on any car ever

Line slop as in shifter pulls too far back? It could be the rubber shifter bushings on the end of the cables on top of the transmission. My blue car had really strange shifter feel when the bushings wore out, almost made it feel like the shifter itself was loose when I would shift quickly into another gear

Pedal slop and pedal feel, yes it was an issue after I replace the master. There is an overly complicated write up on master cylinder adjustment and how and where the pedal needs to be adjusted to in order to properly bleed the master, and then you can adjust pedal engagement by feel. It will eventually self bleed but yeah it would have a different pedal feel when engaging the clutch from a stop and then shifting into a different gear would catch higher or lower for a while

 

[Nicg]

Oh okay I see. I’ll do some fine tuning on the master and see what happens. I’ve read up that if it’s done wrong it can cause what I’m experiencing. Which is basically 1st and second just feel loose and not notchy didn’t run into this previously to the repair. I can take my finger and put it back in neutral rather than the higher gears feel good and obviously need more pressure besides just a touch of a finger. As far as when shifting it feels like the right spot to be nothing higher or lower. Strange. When I get home maybe I can show a video. Going to try some fine tuning. Clutch feels night and day snd engages better than it did

 

[chrysler kid]

That sounds like the clutch isn’t fully engaging which could be a sign you need to either bleed it more or do some more adjusting.

I know I had to take wrenches with me on a few different days because the pedal always seemed like it was acting different after adjustment

 

[Nicg]

Okay thanks for advice and helping out I appreciate it. I’ll let you know when I bleed it some more only thing that comes to mind I got the adjustment perfect on the master