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2G Clutch master cylinder

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Yepez12

Probationary Member
13
5
May 10, 2020
El cajon, California
Hi, I am planning on replacing the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on my car (97 GSX). I found the OEM slave for sale on Extreme PSI, but the OEM master is discontinued.

STM does not offer one either. I found various options for clutch master cylinder on RockAuto, but I'm not sure if those brands are trust worthy or if they are junk.

If someone has had a good experience with a specific brand or knows where I can buy a good option please let me know. Thanks
 
Once I select option for a 2g it shows as out of stock. Same thing for the rebuild kit. I think I will go with Exedy one since it shows as the popular option on rockauto.
 
Once I select option for a 2g it shows as out of stock. Same thing for the rebuild kit. I think I will go with Exedy one since it shows as the popular option on rockauto.

Might just have to get a longer rod, or check the size of the orifice holes. They’re bigger in my oem unit.
 
TMZ is OOS for 2g.
You got me all excited for a moment.
Small orifice holes? Nothing a drill bit can't solve :)

I wonder if the bore size inside is different too. I know the rod is actually a little physically longer in the OEM unit too. Not by much though tbh. One day when I get frisky I may measure it and throw it up here. Because if bore size is the same and the only thing making them suck is the orifice hole, like you said...a drill bit could change that in a few seconds.
 
I wonder if the bore size inside is different too. I know the rod is actually a little physically longer in the OEM unit too. Not by much though tbh. One day when I get frisky I may measure it and throw it up here. Because if bore size is the same and the only thing making them suck is the orifice hole, like you said...a drill bit could change that in a few seconds.
Whatever you do, don't disassemble your current CMC. You've worked too hard to find what your problem was, don't risk damaging it now.
 
Whatever you do, don't disassemble your current CMC. You've worked too hard to find what your problem was, don't risk damaging it now.

Oh don’t worry. I’m not touching that finicky bastard. Lol.
 
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Are we sure about that?
I'm not certain if this is the original on my car but it's a familiar brand. There's a few mentions on here about Nabco being the OEM supplier for 2g CMCs.

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DSW also said "I don't see an issue buying one of those or the Exedy" :p
 

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Are we sure about that?
I'm not certain if this is the original on my car but it's a familiar brand. There's a few mentions on here about Nabco being the OEM supplier for 2g CMCs.

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DSW also said "I don't see an issue buying one of those or the Exedy" :p

I see what youre saying. Thanks for the visual. Looking at the blow up picture of the Luk... its actually a Sanyco unit. Any chance there were multiple OEM suppliers for the master cylinder before I put this quest to rest and go sit in the Corner of Disappointment :D ?

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I would source a good oem core from a junkyard and buy the rebuild kit for it. I'm not gonna dig up the parts number either for ya, just know they're out there ready to source.
If the bore of the cylinder is too worn, a rebuild kit won't do anything. That's only useful if the piston seal, spring, etc. is what went on you, which isn't always the case.
A good oem core from a junkyard.. well, shit, I didn't know it was that simple. LOL

Also, MB870511 is the rebuild kit. Amayama https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/mb870511
overnight parts from japan pop the hood no faith, etc. etc.
 
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I have a duralast one in my current gst and its been fine for about 3 years now as a daily driver. I also purchased the last OEM one that extreme psi had in stock 3 years ago. I was in a spot that I needed to absolutely move the car the next day and ordered the oem one with anticipation i would need it eventually but I couldnt wait on shipping

long story short, the duralast one was identical to the one i removed and it was about $100 less than the oem one. I think I paid $130 for the OEM one.

the aftermarket ones work, but I will tell you that it took forever to find and adjust the engagement point of the aftermarket one. it works but I remember adjusting it every day for about a week after I put it in

im not advertising one brand over another, im just saying in my situation the aftermarket part has been working just fine. (and no im not selling the oem one I have on my shelf that is new in box LOL)
 
When I first changed the master and slave cylinder 10+ years ago I went with Tokico. Doesn't look like they make those anymore. Found out it was leaking last week and went with Beck Arnley, mainly because they seem to be OEM equivalent. Haven't installed it yet, so the only thing I have to report is that it's made in Taiwan.

Had a Duralast on another car and it failed in less than a year.
 
If the bore of the cylinder is too worn, a rebuild kit won't do anything. That's only useful if the piston seal, spring, etc. is what went on you, which isn't always the case.
A good oem core from a junkyard.. well, shit, I didn't know it was that simple. LOL

Also, MB870511 is the rebuild kit. Amayama https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/mb870511
overnight parts from japan pop the hood no faith, etc. etc.
FYI I ordered this and the slave rebuild kit as they were both listed In Stock..... sadly they only shipped the slave kit and refunded for the master, so no, they are no longer an option.

Exhausted all google searches for MB870511 so going with this Luk LMC339 from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2564652894...m3BeJC1agSfN+P5txsoxTC/ED9Qd|tkp:BFBMwISmiuhk
 
I recently installed a Clutch Masters FX350 single-disc clutch. I got rid of the slave cylinder and installed a hydraulic release bearing in my GVR4. My clutch pedal feels like butter, but it engages too close to the floor. I've already maxed out the rod adjustment and I have no way to adjust the shimming of the fork pivot ball because I no longer have one.

I also rebuilt my clutch pedal assembly, which helped with my issue, but didn't resolve it completely.
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I'm thinking of installing an aftermarket master clutch cylinder for the BRZ/FRS/GR86 from Clutch Masters, which has a slightly larger bore (.700 vs .625) with adjustability on the rod length as well as the entire assembly in relation to the firewall. https://clutchmasters.com/i-30501010-clutch-master-cylinders.html

From what I've found online, the stock BRZ units have the same bolt hole space and similar rod length.

While browsing through other parts on their website, I found this item. This looks like it might work for the 2g platform if anyone is looking for alternatives!

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I'm definitely going to test one out for my setup. I'm hoping to alleviate my clutch pedal issues. Cheers!
 

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Reviving this thread for 2G guys out there since the OEM is discountinued and the rebuild kit might be too. Its been a little of a year since this thread was created, so can some of you guys who purchased aftermarket CMCs give a short update on how its been working out for you?

Posting answers to these 3 questions would help.
1. What brand did you purchase and have you had issues?
2. If no issues, How long have you been using it? If issue, then how long did it last?
3. What is your driving frequency? (Daily Driver, Weekend Warrior, etc)
 
I went with the LUK option off of rock auto. Replaced both the master and slave cylinders (both same brand). Have been using them for a little over a year. Use my car every day since its my daily. Have not had any problems. My clutch line on side that connects to slave started leaking but I don't blame the new parts. I think it just started leaking due to it aging. Got new flex line from master to slave from stmtuned for $50 and car's been working great. Car is mostly stock. Only have act streetlite flywheel and act 2100 clutch. 97 gsx.
 
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