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Replaced input shaft bearing now car won't move

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turbo98eclipse

15+ Year Contributor
1,096
15
Jul 27, 2004
northern, New Jersey
I recently replaced my input shaft bearing --

During reassembly any shims that were in the tranny I put back in the same spot etc ...

When it was all back together I assured it could shift from 1-R which it did. The input shaft spun in neutral but would not spin in gear. I figured this is b/c my fingers couldn't provide that much torque.

Regardless I put it back in the car, and still has the same problem.

What could I have done wrong that would cause the tranny to spin in neutral but locks up in gear?
 
you didnt set your preloads properly. you will be able to spin every gear by hand 5th being the hardest to spin. pull the trannsmission back out and disassemble it and use the fsm to reassemble it. it will tell you all your preloads that are needed.
 
i figured that i didnt have to worry about setting any preload seeing as how i didnt remove any gears or anything off the shaft, just the one bearing... and put every shim that was in the tranny already, back into its spot... didnt thing the input shaft bearing needed to be shimmed

also, i feel like if i had to for some reason, add a shim, that it would only make things tighter... it shifts into gear easily, but when i try to release the clutch to "go" its like the tranny is too tight and just causes the car to stall--

is there a link on here someplace that you can point me to?

thanx!

also, do i have to take the trans completely out to fix this issue or is this something that can be easily fixed while on the car?
 
Take the trans completely out, tear it all the way down, and rebuild it according to the manual. The shims are different thicknesses so you wouldnt be adding another one on top of an existing one. You replaced a bearing so setting your preloads is an absolute must.
 
Take the trans completely out, tear it all the way down, and rebuild it according to the manual. The shims are different thicknesses so you wouldnt be adding another one on top of an existing one. You replaced a bearing so setting your preloads is an absolute must.

i didnt add any more shims, i just put the same existing ones back into their places. would you mind explaining why the preload of the entire tranny would change just because one bearing was replaced even though it was an identical bearing? :confused:
 
good chance you have a shift fork installed incorrectly. The trans is locked in two gears. Always Always spin the trans through the gears before installation. Put an old clutch disc on the input shaft, and it should be fairly easy to spin.
 
You need to set preloads because no 2 parts are ever exactly the same. There are always differences in manufacture. You are dealing in thousandths of an inch and small clearances. Do it right and you will likely fix your problem.
 
finally got around to looking at this thing... the gear on the end of the input shaft is too close to the housing causing it to lock--- i removed the nut that retains it and everything works perfect--- but in order to fix the issue, i need to get that gear off BUT its NO clearance between the gear&housing to pry it off-- any ideas?

once i torque the nut on it puts too much pressure on it and locks everything. i thought maybe i could tighten the nut and then "lock" it in place with the stake-- if it cant spin it wont come off, but i thought id run that by you guys first-- didnt sound 100% safe

i thought maybe i can slip something in the "hole" in the picture but that didnt really work
 

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Smh-- I knew it... I looked at about 5 pics to see of the long side or the flared side went down and every pic I saw it LOOKED like how I have it now. I was about 2min from posting a pic on here asking which way was right but it was late and I was tired... So I just put it on-- can anyone else verify that the gear is on upside down? Or have ideas on how to get it off? Lol
 
The gear is upside down. You will likely need to remove the endshaft nut from the input shaft to remove the 5th/Reverse hub and slider assembly and shift fork, then remove the viscous coupler and snapring, then pop off the case section using it as a puller tool to get the 5th intermediate gear off. If you hammered the shit out of the intermediate 5th gear to get it on, you will be in for a real treat removing it. The flange side of the 5th intermediate gear is there for a reason; so you can easily remove the gear, since you have it facing down, you are now unable to remove the gear.

Put your prybars between the case sections and gently pry the upper case section upwards to seperate the 5th intermediate gear from the case section so you can GENTLY get underneath it with two prybars.

GENTLY is very important, otherwise you will chip the gear teeth.
 
Sometimes when you have a gear or bearing like that and you cannot press or pull the gear off, it is possible to 'walk' the peice off the shaft a little bit if you use an air hammer. Just walk it off enough to get a puller under it. Its not a good idea if you don't know what to look for and its only if you are real desperate. Keep us posted!
 
Mission complete. Got the gear off, flipped it, and put the trans back in today. Battery is dead so I'm not able to start the car until my booster pack is charged -- but I spun the crankshaft by hand with the tranny in gear, and it's looking good.

Need a few bolts until the car is finally road ready after 6mths. Should be good by Wednesday.

Thanx guys!!
 
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