Removing water pipe using JayRacing part, turbo water line routing?

[Ludachris]

Yeah, the AMS build was partly my inspiration for trying to make space between the turbo and radiator so that I could run some ducting to the hood vent. It certainly won't be as good as what AMS did, but it should help.

Paul, part of the reason I asked you about the tubular cross member was so that I could attach radiator supports to it to change the angle and drop it a couple inches. This will allow me to move the top forward and create even more room. The only thing I'll really be fighting is the upper radiator hose and the lower I/C piping, but I think I can make it work.

Beau, on the t-stat housing, I'm not sure I want to remove it only because I plan to drive the car on the street some, and everything I've read about t-stats is that they are necessary for street driving. I'll put some more thought into it though. I just don't know if there will be much benefit to replacing that whole assembly. On a 2g it might be better due to the way your upper hose sits right near the middle. I was likely going to just plug the unneeded holes.

 

[99gst_racer]

Chris, I'm starting work on an Auto-x version of my crossmember that will use 1 or 2 north-south bars to tie into the subframe. Just waiting for Dan to bring his car over to be my test dummy. I'll send you some pictures of the first completed design in about a month.

Back when I made the very first crossmember, I also had plans to mount my radiator directly to it. I wanted to kick out the bottom of the core toward the block, and move the top of the core as far forward as possible. I had planned to block off the entire bumper cover and to duct air in from the underside of the car to the radiator. Mine would mostly just be for reduced drag, but it sounds like we have a similar idea in mind for radiator mounting. Ducting the airflow back out of the engine bay would be a huge plus for just about any type of racing though.

 

[Ludachris]

Chris, I'm starting work on an Auto-x version of my crossmember that will use 1 or 2 north-south bars to tie into the subframe. Just waiting for Dan to bring his car over to be my test dummy. I'll send you some pictures of the first completed design in about a month.

Back when I made the very first crossmember, I also had plans to mount my radiator directly to it. I wanted to kick out the bottom of the core toward the block, and move the top of the core as far forward as possible. I had planned to block off the entire bumper cover and to duct air in from the underside of the car to the radiator. Mine would mostly just be for reduced drag, but it sounds like we have a similar idea in mind for radiator mounting. Ducting the airflow back out of the engine bay would be a huge plus for just about any type of racing though.

So now you see why I was asking you about a curved cross member bar, huh Paul? One where the front motor mount sits directly above it. That was exactly my thought. With some threaded tabs for the north/south bars and radiator mounts to bring the lower mounting location of the radiator down and towards the block. That was all part of the plan when I was asking you about it. I didn't want to share too much of the plan, but hey, it makes sense to get others to throw some ideas out there too.

 

[95eclipser]

subscribed want more info on this, if it turns out good ill prob buy it.

make sure to post up pics luda if you go with this setup??

 

[TurboAnything]

Just a thought couldn't you just use the JayRacing water pipe plug and drill and tap it for a -6 fitting? Seems like a lot less work and money. You would have to weld the plug but i would do that anyways.

 

[Ludachris]

Just a thought couldn't you just use the JayRacing water pipe plug and drill and tap it for a -6 fitting? Seems like a lot less work and money. You would have to weld the plug but i would do that anyways.

That's what I had originally wanted to do but the plug is held in by a screw, which screws in to the other fitting inside the water pump passage, which is what holds in that other fitting. There isn't a good way to make it work, or at least not one that I could think of. Not to mention that since I'll be moving the radiator closer, there will be very little room to work with the hose and the fittings. Coming off the side of the water pump will allow more room to work with, and the swivel TEE fitting will help a lot too for hose positioning.

 

[biglady112]

Chris, not sure if you bought this piece yet, but please don't. Nothing against Jay, but I had two different forward facing -12 kits and niether of them worked or fit. And I just don't see how I could trust the plug that comes in from the side after a few uses. There is just not enough material.

However, you could do what I did and not even worry about it. I welded a fitting right to the front of the water pump. Then had a block off plate welded over the side. I drive my water pump directly off the crank with a 31.5" belt and have no issues. I just put this galant together the same way and it ran with no issues.

Granted I don't road race, but I run -12 fittings and have no issues. -16 will be just fine. -20 even better but expensive.

 

[Ludachris]

Chris, not sure if you bought this piece yet, but please don't. Nothing against Jay, but I had two different forward facing -12 kits and niether of them worked or fit. And I just don't see how I could trust the plug that comes in from the side after a few uses. There is just not enough material.

However, you could do what I did and not even worry about it. I welded a fitting right to the front of the water pump. Then had a block off plate welded over the side. I drive my water pump directly off the crank with a 31.5" belt and have no issues. I just put this galant together the same way and it ran with no issues.

Granted I don't road race, but I run -12 fittings and have no issues. -16 will be just fine. -20 even better but expensive.

Well, I've got both a side fitting and front fitting in hand. I think I'll try them in order to give Jay a fair shot at this. If they don't work, I'll go another route. Thanks for the feedback and the alternate solution though.

 

[kawgomoo]

Of course -16 is bigger than any of the cooling passages....

Because it has to outflow ALL the coolant passages at the same time!

For the record -16 is too small for a street car esp a road race car... In my world there is no overkill, and excessive is just right.

-16 is SMALLER than the factory rad hoses. by far. If you run a partially filled block then maybe -16 is plenty for you.

The smaller the water passages the higher the water pressure given the same speed of the water pump impeller. This leads to greater loads on your engine, luckily we dont spin the wp off our tbelt like hondas do.

Of course i could just be a total moron. But we have since shit canned the -16 and are going with -20 and/or hard pipes like you more typically find on the supras.

-16 is what people use because it is the largest size listed in a summit catalog, not because its the best thing to use. {yes if u call summit they carry -20}

lastly. nascar teams use -20 for there oil sump systems. you can find premade and never used hoses in the 3' length all the time on ebay for about 50 bucks. 3' of hose and 2 fragola fittings for 50? u cant beat that shit!!!!

well im off, enjoy!


*edit* i have nothing at all against jay racing! but i think that bolt in water pump thing is a ####ing disaster waiting to happen! NEVER IN MY LIFE!!
If anyone out there needs a fitting tig'd onto there water pump housing, send me the pump and the fitting and i will zap it on there for ya.

id rather spend my own three cents on gas and filler, than have a fellow dsm'r blow a coolant fitting out his motor somewhere out in the countryside.

 

[99gst_racer]

For the record -16 is too small for a street car esp a road race car... In my world there is no overkill, and excessive is just right.

-16 is SMALLER than the factory rad hoses. by far. If you run a partially filled block then maybe -16 is plenty for you.

I respectfuly disagree. I have two street cars in my garage right now that have both been running -16 upper and lower radiator hoses for several years now. Neither car has cooling issues at all, so -16 defintely isn't too small.

As was previously mentioned, the factory radiator hoses are probably larger in diameter than they need to be. I'm not against overkill at all, but it's much more difficult to work with short length -20 hoses, and there's not much distance between the radiator and the filler neck.

 

[gixrman]

Did anyone ever do this? And what did you do with the thermostat and housing?

 

[DashLaflash]

^x2 any updates?

 

[underradar92]

The ONLY issue I can think of with doing this is the radiator cap. It should be at the highest point in the cooling system, correct? On a 1g and 2g, this happens to be the thermostat housing elbow, which is where it's placed. It would seem like eliminating the t-stat housing and placing the rad cap directly on the radiator would cause an issue because the system would not be able to bleed itself properly (the highest point in the cooling system would be somewhere internal in the head, I'm guessing).

Thoughts?


Beau

My solution to a different issue (high coolant velocity theoretically lifting the cap) was to install a remote surge tank with cap, and eliminated the cap on top of the thermostat housing. This would seem to be a possible solution for your deal too.

There is a 3/8" fitting in place of the original cap, routed to the top of the tank. Then a 3/8" hose goes from the bottom of the tank (this eliminates air bubbles too) to a fitting welded to the top tank of the radiator. The surge tank is now the highest point in the system.

Unfortunately I haven't got any good pics of this setup and the car is in a state of dis-assembly, enough so that the cooling system is missing. Any photos in my gallery show an older (more of a bleeder style) version of the setup so it isn't indicative of what is in place currently.

Or you could just install a bleed valve at the high point but those are a pain to fill correctly.

 

[tstkl]

even though this is kinda an old thread, I figured I'd give my input.

motor :: DSC_0177.jpg picture by tstkl - Photobucket

This is my set up, in the process of being built. I added a -6 on the turbo coolant side, and a 90 on the heater recirculation and throttle body recirculation. I have a rwd set up, but the same idea could be used for a dsm. All I did was email jay racing, asked for one of the first link you posted with no fitting welded on, then added a 1 1/4 inch tube with a 3/8 tube sticking out the side towards the turbo, and a 1/2 off the other side.

They even knocked the price down for me since I wasn't getting the fitting.

good stuff, hahaha.

 

[whe3ls]

you guys should look at how the rear wheel drive 4g trucks and vans are.

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[ncarson91]

old thread but i purchased ran straight to my thermostat housing. welded a bung then the pipe coming out back i had An fitting go straight to turbo and other end fitting over the barb like OEM end since my AC is deleted. and would be only use for hose off the back instead of plugging. also, ran turbo coolant lines like how they should normally be ran. simple setup yet efficient.