water pipe modification

[jpmxrider489]

I have a 7 bolt water pipe setup and I am no longer using a water cooled turbo. I am also used a 90 ofh. So I been wanting a versitle setup rather than just welding them shut. I want to cut off the nipples and weld bungs on in the factor nipple locations. For the people that have done this, I want to see your setups. I have two options. Weld a AN bung and use a AN cap. Or weld a NPT bung and use a plug. My concern with this, say I thread in a fitting in the bung, I have had the fitting loosen while loosening the hose. Also, for the heater core part of the pipe, I want to cut it short and weld either a -8 or 3/8 npt. I am worried about the npt bung being to large to weld to the pipe. Then 1/4 npt, I think the inside diameter would be to small. -8 is already smaller than the factory line. My main goal is versatility. The heater core pipe is on a angle, is there any tips to get the bung to sit right?

I have welded many things in the past but nothing that had to be sealed and leak free. Most of my experience was rust repair, lawnmowers, and making brackets. I have practiced welding mild steel bungs to another junk pipe I had laying around. I am getting better, but still having a few pinholes that do leak while pressure testing. Does anyone have any tricks to this? The welder is a lincon mig. I think .30 wire and the 75/25 gas. How much should I pressure test to? Say there is a pinhole that I cant get right, would rtv or jb weld work and act as a sealant?

 

[EC17PSE]

Not welded bungs or AN fittings on it but i welded plates over my old nipple locations as i deleted all mine on my heater hose (can be seen in my build thread)

For the heater core i suggest getting the bigger size and hacing a recess machined into it to slip over the factory tube size. And for this one do NPT boss as you can use a barb fitting easier

The others you wish to alter you can do AN and use AN caps as they have a rubber O ring inside to seal and i use them all the time and its leak free caps. For the oil cooler nipple on the water pipe its a bit tight so undoing it might be a pain since its already a pain with a clamp in that small ass gap.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Not welded bungs or AN fittings on it but i welded plates over my old nipple locations as i deleted all mine on my heater hose (can be seen in my build thread)

I thought about doing this. But IF I ever need a water source, this would be harder to go back. The goal is versitilty. With all the water line questions on this site, you would think more people would be doing this.

For the heater core i suggest getting the bigger size and hacing a recess machined into it to slip over the factory tube size. And for this one do NPT boss as you can use a barb fitting easier

Ill never use my heater core again. All that stuff is ripped out and firewall holes filled. You were talking about the firewall side or water pipe side? I was going to cut off the heater core pipe and weld a fitting in place. Ill probably never need it but if I did, it would be for the throttle body.

The others you wish to alter you can do AN and use AN caps as they have a rubber O ring inside to seal and i use them all the time and its leak free caps. For the oil cooler nipple on the water pipe its a bit tight so undoing it might be a pain since its already a pain with a clamp in that small ass gap.

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With my holset, my down pipe sits really close to that oil cooler line. I get paranoid about the rubber getting to hot. I plan on using a 90 ofh on my new setup anyway. I have a bendy crescent wrench. I could always use a crows foot for the fittings? But I know its tough getting a screwdriver or pliers in there. Thinking about it, a crows foot would no easier. The bendy crescent wrench is a huge help. I used that for odd things like this.

I have welded a -8 in the heater core place and -6 for the oil and turbo sources. When I did a blt on the water pipe, there is pinholes in the welds. Would jb weld be a good idea? Or should I grind some down and re-weld over the problem areas? A coworker said that if I grind it down, the hole would fuse together and seal itself? How much pressure should I test this to? I was planning 15, but a auto shop said they test to 25. Not sure what our system calls for. Dont want to pressurize the radiator. I have to test the pipe directly to the rad since I have lack of fancy tools.

For the AN caps, which one? I know the oring cap was mentioned but why? Doesn't an seal by design. None of my other lines have orings, like the catch can, fuel, boost, and vacuum lines. Unless the oring is for caps only?

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I know my weld are not pretty. Please dont judge. Learning as I go.

 

[EC17PSE]

I thought about doing this. But IF I ever need a water source, this would be harder to go back. The goal is versitilty. With all the water line questions on this site, you would think more people would be doing this.



Ill never use my heater core again. All that stuff is ripped out and firewall holes filled. You were talking about the firewall side or water pipe side? I was going to cut off the heater core pipe and weld a fitting in place. Ill probably never need it but if I did, it would be for the throttle body.

.

With my holset, my down pipe sits really close to that oil cooler line. I get paranoid about the rubber getting to hot. I plan on using a 90 ofh on my new setup anyway. I have a bendy crescent wrench. I could always use a crows foot for the fittings? But I know its tough getting a screwdriver or pliers in there. Thinking about it, a crows foot would no easier. The bendy crescent wrench is a huge help. I used that for odd things like this.

I have welded a -8 in the heater core place and -6 for the oil and turbo sources. When I did a blt on the water pipe, there is pinholes in the welds. Would jb weld be a good idea? Or should I grind some down and re-weld over the problem areas? A coworker said that if I grind it down, the hole would fuse together and seal itself? How much pressure should I test this to? I was planning 15, but a auto shop said they test to 25. Not sure what our system calls for. Dont want to pressurize the radiator. I have to test the pipe directly to the rad since I have lack of fancy tools.

For the AN caps, which one? I know the oring cap was mentioned but why? Doesn't an seal by design. None of my other lines have orings, like the catch can, fuel, boost, and vacuum lines. Unless the oring is for caps only?

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I know my weld are not pretty. Please dont judge. Learning as I go.

When i did my pipe i tig welded it all but i sanded all the old coating off as they wont help when sealing and welding. I actually never tested mine. I saw it was ok and i guess just hoped it was

The AN caps have an O ring inside as a added seal / precaution no idea why they add it but it hells i guess. J use the smaller of the caps. The long piece on the end i have no idea why its there

If you still want to have fittings around then go NPT. Uses smaller fittings and easier to get in.