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Rebuild done car wont start HELP

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Eclipse37

10+ Year Contributor
221
0
Jun 3, 2008
Tonopah, Arizona
Ok so here's the deal just got a new crate engine inside my 1995 GST got everything prepped for the first start up, got in and turned the engine over and the car barely wants to turn over, Im also getting alot of back-firing. The spark plugs seem to have a decent amount of soot on them after trying to crank it over a period of 15 mins or so. The coil pack is sparking fine and all the plug wires are getting a spark and I know it's getting fuel because the spark plugs smell like gas. Now the weird thing is if I unplug the cam position sensor the engine wants to crank over faster, also if I plug the cam position sensor in and unplug the crank position sensor it will crank over faster also but it both plugs are plugged in at the same time it has a hard time trying to crank. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :hellyeah::dsm:


EDIT: im running NGKBPR6ES spark plugs brand new spark plug wires crank and cam sensors are both new also. Spark plugs were gaped to 0.028
 
Check to make sure you have the correct cam sensor for your year of car because I actually didn't and had a hell of a time fixing it, also double check to make sure you're TDC on timing especially after messing with sensors hope this helps
 
I just timed the engine again and it's correct all the cam timing marks line up with the head dowel pins are at 12 and crank is at TDC. I had the crank position sensor plugged into the A/C compressor so I fixed that. I figured that was the problem but, unfortunately it still had a really slow weak crank. Im completely lost here. I checked all the vacuum hoses on the intake they all seem to be good.
 
Check voltage on battery. Check that alternator, starter, & spark plug order. Fuses. Make sure you have gas. Also, did you put the oil pump or balance shaft in time as well?
 
Battery is good the alternator is brand new, I have the firing order correct. I have a quarter tank of gas and I had a balance shaft eliminator kit done so no need to time oil in. If I unplug the cam position sensor the car will run and idle but as soon as I plug the cam position sensor in the car has a really hard time cranking over and instrument cluster lights go dim. I just ran over all the vacuum hoses and they are all in the corrects positions. The cam sensor is brand new out of the box I find it hard to find that it would be bad.
 
The car will run with the CPS unplugged because it will run in limp mode to get you home, but when you plug it in the car knows something wrong and it won't start. I'm having trouble finding that problem.
 
Battery is good the alternator is brand new, I have the firing order correct. I have a quarter tank of gas and I had a balance shaft eliminator kit done so no need to time oil in. If I unplug the cam position sensor the car will run and idle but as soon as I plug the cam position sensor in the car has a really hard time cranking over and instrument cluster lights go dim. I just ran over all the vacuum hoses and they are all in the corrects positions. The cam sensor is brand new out of the box I find it hard to find that it would be bad.

It wouldn't be the first time that a part is no good right out of the box so don't rule it out so easily, you should be able to test it and if not take it back as defective to rule it out completely. The fact that your lights are diming though makes me think you have a short somewhere, I'll try to find you a good link to a write up on finding shorts.

Here it is

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...inding-short-partial-short-battery-drain.html
 
Well I checked the voltages to the cam position sensor and crank position sensor and they are correct. One of the injector wires broke off so I can't try to start it until the new wires get in and I get them on. I'll shoot an update as soon as I can start the car again and troubleshoot properly.
 
i have a very similar problem! except it occurred after i changed the clutch and flywheel. i know gas is coming through the fuel rail and that there is spark. how can i test my injectors w/o a voltage meter. also, would it make sense for my timing to be off? heres a video
‪VIDEO0063‬‏ - YouTube
 
i Had the same problem a few months ago. Turned out to be the engine flooded so bad there was a pool of gas in the intake. This is the worst problem to have. GL
 
i Had the same problem a few months ago. Turned out to be the engine flooded so bad there was a pool of gas in the intake. This is the worst problem to have. GL
sounds awful, :ohdamn: what did you have to do to remove it? whats the best way for me to check for that?
 
Ughhh. That happened to me on my most recent rebuild. I had to disconnect the injectors and evac most of the fuel from the combustion chamber.

Still soaked the pistons slightly.. But I am pretty sure that burnt off after running it for a while.
 
ehh, it's kind of a pain in the ass from the spark plug holes. Turkey baster would work really well with a hose on it.

But I agree... Spark, Fuel, and compression first. Post the results. :hellyeah:

EDIT:

Saw your compression results, nothing out of the ordinary.

Disconnect fuel rail.. crank a couple times to see if injectors are spraying... if not, start with the CAS..

i have a very similar problem! except it occurred after i changed the clutch and flywheel. i know gas is coming through the fuel rail and that there is spark. how can i test my injectors w/o a voltage meter. also, would it make sense for my timing to be off? heres a video
‪VIDEO0063‬‏ - YouTube

Not sure that sounds like timing... Is your CAS upsidedown? Your either not getting Fuel or spark.
 
Are you sure the plug wires are going to the right cylinders? May sound stupid but I have seen people screw it up on multiple occasions.
 
ok im heading out now, first stop napa to borrow a compression check tool, then out to the car 1st il check for spark, then il disconnect my fuel rain again and check for spray from injectors, lastly il check my compression and report back. im glad to hear it doesn't sound like timing cause that's a pain. il also remember to check if the notches line up on my cams. as for the sensors, i don't think anything else goes on the starter i did take it off though and even had it tested. il try to take it off and post pics of what was in which place. i also didnt touch my cas although i know where it is located il spray some electronic cleaner and see if that helps. thanks for the help! :)
 
ok im heading out now, first stop napa to borrow a compression check tool, then out to the car 1st il check for spark, then il disconnect my fuel rain again and check for spray from injectors, lastly il check my compression and report back. im glad to hear it doesn't sound like timing cause that's a pain. il also remember to check if the notches line up on my cams. as for the sensors, i don't think anything else goes on the starter i did take it off though and even had it tested. il try to take it off and post pics of what was in which place. i also didnt touch my cas although i know where it is located il spray some electronic cleaner and see if that helps. thanks for the help! :)

Lol dude make a thread you can't just hop in and hijack peoples threads LOL... It's hard to tell weather they are throwing ideas at you or me.I posted all my compression results, I'll pull the fuel rail and see if there is any gas pooling up inside it.

Are you sure the plug wires are going to the right cylinders? May sound stupid but I have seen people screw it up on multiple occasions.

According to the Haynes manual I have the correct firing order but I saw a tech page that said there are two different firing orders varying on your ECU being 95-96 EPROM.
 
Last edited:
Lol dude make a thread you can't just hop in and hijack peoples threads LOL... It's hard to tell weather they are throwing ideas at you or me.I posted all my compression results, I'll pull the fuel rail and see if there is any gas pooling up inside it.



According to the Haynes manual I have the correct firing order but I saw a tech page that said there are two different firing orders varying on your ECU being 95-96 EPROM.

definetly hijacked your thread sorry man. anyways, i got no spark on the 3 cylinders on the right side of the engine. only the plug all the way to the left works so im changing the wires today. if i knew more id help you man
 
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