HELP!!! Car Wont START!!!

[2gTSIFZone]

car wont start =/ sometimes when i turn the key over, it will just click... and other times it will crank but slowly.... been at it since noon today just looking for some fresh eyes on the situation... Just finished installing motor all vac lines appear to be connected along with all of the other random misc plugs from my wiring harness

 

[Alex Bland]

sounds like the starter =]


YOUR NOT SUPPOST TO DO THIS but take a screwdriver and touch both ends together on the starter and see if it spins. dont touch the metal on the screwdriver and make sure the cars not in gear

 

[awzer2]

sounds like a dead battery ..

 

[streetraceboi]

I agree with dead battery

 

[sbeck]

I would start with some jumper cables on this also. If you still don't have any luck your not super far from RRE and if you get it to fire you could always pay them to figure it out.

 

[saechao04]

Sounds like the problem I had a few weeks ago, my starter will engage and I will hear a click and nothing else or it would turn, but very slow and not fire. Turns out I forgot to ground my transmission. First, make sure your batter is fully charged. Second, check all grounds. Also check for spark and fuel. Check your CAS.

Spark gets generated on a 2g using the following (note: CAS and CPS may have slightly different voltage ranges on pin 2 for 95-96 dsm but they will not be 0):

- For a quick go/no go test of all ignition components before the coil: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...#post151297987

- Coil test: Ignition problem

- PT: Power transistor test

- CAS: Cam angle sensor test: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...#post151265251

- CPS: Crank position sensor test: same as cam angle sensor except pin 2 is blue/white and it's crank voltage is 0.4-4.0V while idling is 1.5-2.5V

- ECU test: Check if caps inside are leaking or rotten egg smell and/or swap with known good one. Troubleshooting fried ECU components

- Spark plugs: Appearance: Spark Plug Diagnosis, FAQ: Spark Plug FAQ. Test by removing each plug, reattaching the spark plug cable, then (wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water)) hold the plug's outer electrode (or threads) against the head (ground) while cranking engine. Make sure there is spark and it's not weak. When done also check plug for cracked insulation or damaged electrodes.

- Spark plug cable test: Measure resistance of each end to end while bending them all over (to check for an open). Resistance should be 22k ohms max on a 2g (11k on 1g). If engine idles, wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water) you may first want to disconnect, one at a time, each of the spark plug cables while engine is idling. If the engine performance does not change, check that cables resistance and the spark plug itself. You can also check for spark jumping to ground from cable or coil by watching them in the dark while racing engine.

- Filter capacitor: The filter capacitor sharpens the coil's input pulse and reduces input pulse ringing both of which enhance the coil's output. It also reduces electrical static generated by the coil and alternator on the +12v line. It rarely fails but has been known to happen. Sometimes it intermittently fails (partially shorts) with temperature which can severely affect spark. Other times it just gets old and loses it's capacitance which usually shows up as increased static in the radio. The filter capacitor is a small cylindrical tin can bolted to intake manifold driver's side with 1 wire coming out of it. You can check it by just unplugging it and noticing effect (especially if it is failing with temperature).

compiled by luv2rallye

 

[sbeck]

If you find battery and starter are both fine and you still have a slow crank and you just put your engine in you could possibly have not got the transmission in right. Its real easy to get it messed up if you did it without a lift. To check I would pull the starter and try to turn the flywheel with a pry bar by hand.

 

[xXEclipse]

Sounds like the starter to me..

Take a hammer and tap it a few times.. See if it helps if it turns over then your starter is starting to go bad.. If it doesnt turn over it doesnt rule out the starter.. But its a way you can test

 

[98mitsubishigst]

Try jumper cables first, if not, starter.

 

[SD99GST]

I to would also check the battery first. Grab your meter and do a quick test. If you don't have one, I think its a tool everyone should own, even if its a cheap little one for 20 bucks. But I know craftsman is about 30 bucks and works fantastic. Check it also while cranking and see the draw. Then move on to other symptoms. Habit for me to start with the easiest things only because they are so easy to over look when frustrated. Good luck man.

 

[misterjose]

mine does the same thing every now and then. my starter is new and most of the time it start perfectly sometimes it seems like the battery is low and it cranks. i figured out how to start it when it doesn't i just turn the key really fast from lock to on. it will work

 

[2gTSIFZone]

thanks for the ideas guys i'll give them a try tomorow in the light... as far as the battery goes i got it 3 days ago.... and the guys as sears said it was fully charger (friends a tech there so got to use all their testers) and im pretty sure the starter is grounded to the block because just up and to the left of the starter (looking towards the front of the car) there is a black wire/cable that is attached to the blockthat runs in the same piece of the wiring harness... thanks again guys ill keep you posted

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Quick test. Push start. If it starts then it's your starter or battery.

Try turning your headlights on, if it's not able to turn on without a key. Then likely your battery is very very low. The time the battery spends in your car can possibly be draining the battery itself. Don't second guess because I had this happen to me before. New battery but the starter was the problem. It was some how??? draining the battery.
Also make sure your alternator is catching on. Since it uses the physics of electromagnet or something along that line use a big magnet to help strengthen it's field.

 

[2gTSIFZone]

ok ill try push starting it, only thing though is i need to go attempt to bleed the clutch AGAIN... i followed the service manuel and it still doesnt work. Ill push the clutch down and it will stay down until i lift the pedal with my hand

 

[SD99GST]

ok ill try push starting it, only thing though is i need to go attempt to bleed the clutch AGAIN... i followed the service manuel and it still doesnt work. Ill push the clutch down and it will stay down until i lift the pedal with my hand

Thats normal when all the fluid is drained out of the line. Just keep bleeding, sometimes it takes a little while but it will get there. Get a friend to help you out and make sure that you keep the Master Cylinder full so to not get more air in the line.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Sounds like the problem I had a few weeks ago, my starter will engage and I will hear a click and nothing else or it would turn, but very slow and not fire. Turns out I forgot to ground my transmission. First, make sure your batter is fully charged. Second, check all grounds. Also check for spark and fuel. Check your CAS.

Spark gets generated on a 2g using the following (note: CAS and CPS may have slightly different voltage ranges on pin 2 for 95-96 dsm but they will not be 0):

- For a quick go/no go test of all ignition components before the coil: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...#post151297987

- Coil test: Ignition problem

- PT: Power transistor test

- CAS: Cam angle sensor test: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...#post151265251

- CPS: Crank position sensor test: same as cam angle sensor except pin 2 is blue/white and it's crank voltage is 0.4-4.0V while idling is 1.5-2.5V

- ECU test: Check if caps inside are leaking or rotten egg smell and/or swap with known good one. Troubleshooting fried ECU components

- Spark plugs: Appearance: Spark Plug Diagnosis, FAQ: Spark Plug FAQ. Test by removing each plug, reattaching the spark plug cable, then (wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water)) hold the plug's outer electrode (or threads) against the head (ground) while cranking engine. Make sure there is spark and it's not weak. When done also check plug for cracked insulation or damaged electrodes.

- Spark plug cable test: Measure resistance of each end to end while bending them all over (to check for an open). Resistance should be 22k ohms max on a 2g (11k on 1g). If engine idles, wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water) you may first want to disconnect, one at a time, each of the spark plug cables while engine is idling. If the engine performance does not change, check that cables resistance and the spark plug itself. You can also check for spark jumping to ground from cable or coil by watching them in the dark while racing engine.

- Filter capacitor: The filter capacitor sharpens the coil's input pulse and reduces input pulse ringing both of which enhance the coil's output. It also reduces electrical static generated by the coil and alternator on the +12v line. It rarely fails but has been known to happen. Sometimes it intermittently fails (partially shorts) with temperature which can severely affect spark. Other times it just gets old and loses it's capacitance which usually shows up as increased static in the radio. The filter capacitor is a small cylindrical tin can bolted to intake manifold driver's side with 1 wire coming out of it. You can check it by just unplugging it and noticing effect (especially if it is failing with temperature).

compiled by luv2rallye

Every newbie post should have this pop up and make then read this first before they can post. +rep to you sir.

 

[crazyquik22023]

I would say it's probably your starter. Had this same problem many times. FYI don't buy starters from autozone... Could also be bad ignition switch or loose starter signal wire

 

[2gTSIFZone]

***UPDATE***

Figures found a second ground for my starter tucked into the wiring harness /facepalm.... so now it turns over fine BUT im getting no spark -_- and my waterpump is leaking....

oh the JOYS of my dsm

going to check my sensors tomorow and double check that they are all plugged in

 

[dsmrollerz90]

Okay so my car isnt starting either, I'm not having a problem with the starter.

A week ago I installed the PR FMIC, there was a boost leak that I had'nt taken care of, I was going to take care of it today. I turn the key and it just cranks and cranks and cranks.

I have fuel pressure, I have spark, I just dont know if im getting air... I finally got the car started by push starting it. It ran like crap and got me three blocks away then died. I tried to turn it on again but nothing, just cranking.
Thus, I had to walk home in snow.
With my GF's purse.
It sucked.

Could the boost leak be bad enough that I'm not getting efficiant intake?

I checked;
Coolant
Alt.
Batt. terminals
TB
BOV
Coil pack
Plugs
AFPR
All sensors and vac. lines

Is there any other things I should check?

 

[ridelowandslow]

Okay so my car isnt starting either, I'm not having a problem with the starter.

A week ago I installed the PR FMIC, there was a boost leak that I had'nt taken care of, I was going to take care of it today. I turn the key and it just cranks and cranks and cranks.

I have fuel pressure, I have spark, I just dont know if im getting air... I finally got the car started by push starting it. It ran like crap and got me three blocks away then died. I tried to turn it on again but nothing, just cranking.
Thus, I had to walk home in snow.
With my GF's purse.
It sucked.

Could the boost leak be bad enough that I'm not getting efficiant intake?

I checked;
Coolant
Alt.
Batt. terminals
TB
BOV
Coil pack
Plugs
AFPR
All sensors and vac. lines

Is there any other things I should check?

I understand that you said you had checked all the sensors, but i had a similar problem.. my MAF wasn't staying 100% in and it caused that, hope this helps

 

[gunner4usa]

Sounds like the problem I had a few weeks ago, my starter will engage and I will hear a click and nothing else or it would turn, but very slow and not fire. Turns out I forgot to ground my transmission. First, make sure your batter is fully charged. Second, check all grounds. Also check for spark and fuel. Check your CAS.

Spark gets generated on a 2g using the following (note: CAS and CPS may have slightly different voltage ranges on pin 2 for 95-96 dsm but they will not be 0):

- For a quick go/no go test of all ignition components before the coil: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...#post151297987

- Coil test: Ignition problem

- PT: Power transistor test

- CAS: Cam angle sensor test: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...#post151265251

- CPS: Crank position sensor test: same as cam angle sensor except pin 2 is blue/white and it's crank voltage is 0.4-4.0V while idling is 1.5-2.5V

- ECU test: Check if caps inside are leaking or rotten egg smell and/or swap with known good one. Troubleshooting fried ECU components

- Spark plugs: Appearance: Spark Plug Diagnosis, FAQ: Spark Plug FAQ. Test by removing each plug, reattaching the spark plug cable, then (wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water)) hold the plug's outer electrode (or threads) against the head (ground) while cranking engine. Make sure there is spark and it's not weak. When done also check plug for cracked insulation or damaged electrodes.

- Spark plug cable test: Measure resistance of each end to end while bending them all over (to check for an open). Resistance should be 22k ohms max on a 2g (11k on 1g). If engine idles, wearing rubber gloves and insulated shoes (don't stand in water) you may first want to disconnect, one at a time, each of the spark plug cables while engine is idling. If the engine performance does not change, check that cables resistance and the spark plug itself. You can also check for spark jumping to ground from cable or coil by watching them in the dark while racing engine.

- Filter capacitor: The filter capacitor sharpens the coil's input pulse and reduces input pulse ringing both of which enhance the coil's output. It also reduces electrical static generated by the coil and alternator on the +12v line. It rarely fails but has been known to happen. Sometimes it intermittently fails (partially shorts) with temperature which can severely affect spark. Other times it just gets old and loses it's capacitance which usually shows up as increased static in the radio. The filter capacitor is a small cylindrical tin can bolted to intake manifold driver's side with 1 wire coming out of it. You can check it by just unplugging it and noticing effect (especially if it is failing with temperature).

compiled by luv2rallye

I know that has been over two years since this was posted, but are there new links for the referenced ones? I tried using this advice but cannot pull up the links.

 

[djc1827]

what a nightmare

 

[gunner4usa]

what a nightmare

djc1827,
Very much a nightmare, but that's why I am trying. Have a 90 that has been sitting for almost 6 years. So, I can hope

 

[djc1827]

at least you dont use salt on the rds....im afraid to leave cars outside here they rust quick

 

[gunner4usa]

at least you dont use salt on the rds....im afraid to leave cars outside here they rust quick

They use salt in salt in MD. That's where it was sitting. Luckily though it was on a concrete slab in the backyard