2G Radiator and AC Fan not Powering on

[kyler021]

So, as the title states none of my cooling fans will turn on.

I’ve replaced the temp sender, temp sensor, thermostat, and radiator cap.
There’s 5V and ground at the connector for the temp sensor. I’ve tested the relays in the fuse box, all of them click when given 12V power and as far as I know all of them measure out correctly in terms of resistance.
All the fuses look good, no breaks in them. I did replace the 30a fusible link as the insides were melted.

When we unplug the coolant temp sensor while the car is running, both of the fans turn on full power. When the temp sensor is plugged in, with the ac switch on in the cabin, the ac fan does not turn on. I’m planning on hooking up a scan tool to it tomorrow to monitor coolant temp while it’s on and see if the fan comes on at the specified temp that the manual says.

The AC belt is not connected up on the pulley side, but I don't think that would cause this.

Is there any other tests I should run? I feel like I’m missing something very simple. All the connectors are snapped in to my knowledge. Thanks for the help!

Kyle

 

[spooln4fun]

2G - Cooling issue, plus wiring the fans up

First off my thermostat housing has all new sensors (2) car starts drives fine. The radiator fan will not kick on what so ever. I have checked my thermostat, the relays, and fuses. Any one have any insight on how to correct my fan from not turning on. OR does anyone know which wire on the fan is...

www.dsmtuners.com

Check out this thread. Alot of good info inside

 

[kyler021]

2G - Cooling issue, plus wiring the fans up

First off my thermostat housing has all new sensors (2) car starts drives fine. The radiator fan will not kick on what so ever. I have checked my thermostat, the relays, and fuses. Any one have any insight on how to correct my fan from not turning on. OR does anyone know which wire on the fan is...

www.dsmtuners.com

Check out this thread. Alot of good info inside

I saw that, for now, I kinda just want my fans to work like stock, maybe eventually I'll try wiring them up to be on all the time if I can't get my DSMlink workin, thank you for the reply!

 

[chrysler kid]

is the AC compressor plugged in? I dont think that would affect the radiator fan though just the condensor fan

is it overheating?

 

[kyler021]

is the AC compressor plugged in? I dont think that would affect the radiator fan though just the condensor fan

is it overheating?

Yep compressor is plugged in, and the fuse for the compressor and condenser fan looks good. I did get the radiator fan to work, turns out it just took about 10-15 minutes of idling for it to reach 203 degrees which had me worried because my other car doesn't take that long to get up to temp. When driving the car doesn't go over 210 so it isn't overheating. Maybe the AC not being charged and the belt not being on the compressor has something to do with the condenser fan not operating? That's the only thing I can think of now, I do know the fan does work because when I unplug the coolant temp sensor when it's running, both fans will come on. Could be that I just need to clean up the compressor connector, there was a big oil leak on that side and I think some got some on the connector.

Appreciate the help!
Kyle

 

[kyler021]

Yep compressor is plugged in, and the fuse for the compressor and condenser fan looks good. I did get the radiator fan to work, turns out it just took about 10-15 minutes of idling for it to reach 203 degrees which had me worried because my other car doesn't take that long to get up to temp. When driving the car doesn't go over 210 so it isn't overheating. Maybe the AC not being charged and the belt not being on the compressor has something to do with the condenser fan not operating? That's the only thing I can think of now, I do know the fan does work because when I unplug the coolant temp sensor when it's running, both fans will come on. Could be that I just need to clean up the compressor connector, there was a big oil leak on that side and I think some got some on the connector.

Appreciate the help!
Kyle

Okay so now I have a different problem, I just took it out for a drive for the first time in a year, and I get back and I'm hearing bubbling coming from the top radiator hose. New t stat, rad cap, sensor, and sender. Coolant temps stayed at around 180-188 during the drive. Already have done a head gasket test and the test fluid stayed blue indicating no exhaust gas in the coolant. I know the thermostat opens because I can feel the bottom rad hose get hot after temps hit 185, the dummy gauge in the cluster stays in the middle the whole time while driving, and I know for a fact the rad fan works (still haven't figured out the AC Fan). I've heard these coolant systems in the 2gs are "self-burping" so could that be it? After driving the overflow seemed to be in the middle of the low and full lines, before driving the overflow was a little below the low line. Do I just need to add more coolant? Also, I figured since this may be related to the fans, that I would just post it in here, but if someone thinks it's time for a new thread don't hesitate to let me know.
Thanks!
Kyle

 

[jed344]

My memory says on a 2g that the fans kick on at 210 degrees stock. The dummy coolant temp gauge a long time ago we did tests with checking ecm link's temp VS a auto meter with sending unit in lower part of thermostat housing. The dummy gauge as i recall did not start to leave the normal range until something like 225 or 227 degrees. Then it just goes to saying its cooking hot as i recall. What are you using to monitor the coolant temps with? The stock gauge will say center normal anything from 180-220 i am fairly certain. Your level in the overflow bottle does not sound out of the ordinary.

 

[kyler021]

My memory says on a 2g that the fans kick on at 210 degrees stock. The dummy coolant temp gauge a long time ago we did tests with checking ecm link's temp VS an auto meter with sending unit in lower part of thermostat housing. The dummy gauge as i recall did not start to leave the normal range until something like 225 or 227 degrees. Then it just goes to saying its cooking hot as i recall. What are you using to monitor the coolant temps with? The stock gauge will say center normal anything from 180-220 i am fairly certain. Your level in the overflow bottle does not sound out of the ordinary.

We’re monitoring coolant temps with a obd2 scanner. I think that *should* be accurate as it’s reading what the ecu is seeing from the temp sensor. It took about 15-20 minutes at idle to push past 195 degrees, and the radiator fan turns on at the expected temperature of 203*. On the drive yesterday it didn’t go past 190*. I’m kinda stumped on why it’s bubbling now after replacing everything and making sure the coolant was burped twice, and adding the coolant to the overflow after burping.

 

[luv2rallye]

Proper burping procedure: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/operation-temperature-problems.475004/#post-153386862

2g fan turn on temps: https://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/fan-operating-mode-2g-jpg.86862/

Also fill the coolant overflow tank when engine warmed up. Then with rad cap on, turn engine off and leave overnight. If system has no leaks and working properly, it should draw coolant from overflow while it cools down until it's full (or overflow is empty).

 

[kyler021]

Proper burping procedure: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/operation-temperature-problems.475004/#post-153386862

2g fan turn on temps: https://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/fan-operating-mode-2g-jpg.86862/

Also fill the coolant overflow tank when engine warmed up. Then with rad cap on, turn engine off and leave overnight. If system has no leaks and working properly, it should draw coolant from overflow while it cools down until it's full (or overflow is empty).

So would you say that my temps are not "normal" for cruising? Should it get up past 190 during cruising? I've heard people say as long as it's not overheating it'll be fine to drive the 15-20 minutes home, but I sure as heck don't want any air bubbles to get trapped in the head and cause hotspots. Would there be any side effects to driving it at that low of a temp other than running rich? I'll also add that when I turn the heat on it is not warm, I'd say it's actually pretty hot, which leads me to believe that the heater core is fine, but then again I don't have the AC belt on the compressor. While I burped the coolant, I was squeezing both the top and bottom coolant hoses but I can't recall if I had the heat on or not, so I'll try doing that again. Sorry if these are dumb questions. Thank you for the reply and the help!

 

[TerminalTalon]

It’s wise to invest in a pressure tester kit and vacuum filler for coolant stuff because air pockets cause a lot of issues along with any leaks. Not necessarily DSM’s but some cars will never burp and the only way to tell if your coolant system is leak free is the pressure tester.