Questions on Safety Wiring Turbo Bolts

[Paul@RTM]

Looking for some input on safety wiring the turbo-to-manifold bolt heads. I guess the main questions are what diameter wire is recommended? Is there a rule of thumb about the size of the hole vs. the size of the wire? Things like that. Thanks in advance.

 

[dsmcurse]

use premium grade 8 bolts, screw together tight with a flat washer at the bolt head and a lock washer at the nut side, use a flat chissel-punch and a hammer and carefully ping the bottom thread under the nut, this will make it so the nut can never unscrew unless you use a pair of wrenches and put some muscle to it.

 

[crimsondragon]

There isn't really a rule. The smaller bolt heads require smaller wire but a turbo manifold bolt of that size can use .032". That is what we mainly use in the aviation industry and it works for 80% of the hardware on an aircraft. I use .032" on the flywheel and crank pulley bolts.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Out of curiosity. Why woukd one do this?

 

[snowborder714]

Same reason you'd safety wire any bolts - so they don't back out.


Paul, are you asking about this in relation to using OEM hardware or aftermarket hardware?

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

I've seen them the stretch and not back out. Seen them wired together and still end up making a gap.

 

[GST with PSI]

I've safety wired parts on my bike before for track use, but never on a car. I used stainless steel safety wire, anywhere form .020-.040 depending on the fastener. Ideally, you want to countersink (chamfer) the holes on each side of the fastener so the wire isn't wrapped over a 90* angle.

The issue you may run into is heat. All the fasteners I've ever wired were chassis/suspension bolts and such. Nothing that endured lots of heat like an exhaust manifold bolt. I'm not sure how thin wire would hold up under such high heat without becoming brittle and weak. Give it a try and let us know...

 

[crimsondragon]

Haven't seen them stretch before. Must be a huge turbo. I have heard of people constantly tightening them but it always backs out. I never had the issue before. I always run them with the washers. My issue usually lies with not being able to loosen them. I've completely stripped the threads off of one bolt before so that it was nothing but regular pin. Usually they just snap on removal.

I've safety wired parts on my bike before for track use, but never on a car. I used stainless steel safety wire, anywhere form .020-.040 depending on the fastener. Ideally, you want to countersink (chamfer) the holes on each side of the fastener so the wire isn't wrapped over a 90* angle.

The issue you may run into is heat. All the fasteners I've ever wired were chassis/suspension bolts and such. Nothing that endured lots of heat like an exhaust manifold bolt. I'm not sure how thin wire would hold up under such high heat without becoming brittle and weak. Give it a try and let us know...

We safety wire all kinds of bolts on and off jet engines, engine accessories, thermal blankets, etc. Quality SS wire such as Malin will have no issues. Temperatures are typically in the 400*-500* spiking up to 1000*. For the exhaust temperature senders however, we do use an inconel based wire that can take direct consistent heat up to about 1500*.

 

[Paul@RTM]

Paul, are you asking about this in relation to using OEM hardware or aftermarket hardware?

OEM. We're toying with the idea of drilling out some OEMers and selling them as a product. Seems some guys swear by this setup. We don't argue with people who open their wallets the correct amount. Looks like .032" is far and away the most common size for automotive applications. We'll experiment with one of our mills, a few tools and a few bolt heads and see what comes out.

 

[NHerron]

Strange. Keep them from coming loose? I didn't know of such a problem... everyone seems to get them stuck.

 

[turbosax2]

I just drilled mine about 5 minutes ago. 1/16" hole (use a cobalt bit) and I plan to use 0.032" wire.