Turbo bolts

[wishihadatalon]

The stockers work fine, I've never had any issues with them. I use the high temp anti seize from RRE, think its 2700 Deg. If you have issues with the bolts backing out you can always get a hole drilled in the head and wire them with stainless stell safety wire.

Usually when they keep backing out they are old and stretched and just need to be replaced. I had to tighten mine everyday and when I finally replaced the gaskets and the bolts the bolt stayed perfectly in place. We were thinking about doing the aircraft wire thing but we thougt it woudl be really really hard.

 

[daren_p]

Usually when they keep backing out they are old and stretched and just need to be replaced. I had to tighten mine everyday and when I finally replaced the gaskets and the bolts the bolt stayed perfectly in place. We were thinking about doing the aircraft wire thing but we thougt it woudl be really really hard.

Personally I've never had issues with them backing out, just know of others who have even with new bolts. The SS safty wire is easy to use/install, I had to do all the hat to rotor bolts on my 2 piece rotors.

 

[DSMcamaro]

Getting new cup washers sometimes helps with the turbo bolts backing out. 2 washers per bolt. The dots face outwards. Torque to about 40-45 ft/lbs.

Hopefully I'll be putting my turbo back on today and I ordered the 4 new bolts with washers from slowboys. Anyways, just to make sure, its 2 washers per bolt stacked right on top of each other? With the dots facing the head of the bolt?

 

[daren_p]

I've always torqued mine to the factory spec of deg of rotation & not "torque". As for the washers you must use two but they don't face the same way, if I remember correctly. I can check the proper way to install the washers & the deg spec tonight if someone doesn't chime in first.

 

[MrBoxx]

There are two washers per bolt. One washer will have the dots facing the manifold, the other will have the dots facing the bottom of the bolt head. The smooth sides of each washer face each other.

The Haynes manual says turbo-manifold bolts should be torqued to 44ft-lbs. daren_p, are you thinking of the "torque to X ft-lbs, then turn another Y degrees" method? I remember seeing it written somewhere to torque to 40, then turn another 70*, but I can't remember where I saw it to link to, so I could be wrong on that degree specification.

 

[daren_p]

There are two washers per bolt. One washer will have the dots facing the manifold, the other will have the dots facing the bottom of the bolt head. The smooth sides of each washer face each other.

The Haynes manual says turbo-manifold bolts should be torqued to 44ft-lbs. daren_p, are you thinking of the "torque to X ft-lbs, then turn another Y degrees" method? I remember seeing it written somewhere to torque to 40, then turn another 70*, but I can't remember where I saw it to link to, so I could be wrong on that degree specification.

Yes that is the method I was talkin about/use. You first torque the bolts to 20-23 ft lbs, then turn the another 60-70 deg, that is the factory spec & what I use, never had any issues with that method. Like MrBoxx said, the identification holes should be on the outside (one facing the manifold & one facing the bolt head)

 

[DSMcamaro]

Thanks guys. I'll be putting my freshly ported turbo on in about 1 or 2 hours

 

[njc1064]

Im one of the many that has broke turbo bolts off...Not one of the most ideal situations. But if you let the car sit at idle and spray some pb blaster all over the bolts, it will help a great deal. Also, putting some anti-sieze on before putting the bolts back in is a good idea

 

[Wufei]

Wow...while retapping the threads...I discovered that one of my bolts had the THREADS broken from the bolt inside the turbine housing. WTF I was able to push those threads down after half an hour or so w/the help of liquid wrench and another turbo bolt. The tapped that thread hole to be safe.

 

[topstreet]

If you can get the threads in good order... Honda, rear, lower, strut bolts work well as replacement turbo bolts. Stock 6bolt main bolts work well too.

Just an FYI

 

[project_tsi]

Copper-based anti-sieze, not the ordinary gray.

The grey hasn't failed me yet.

 

[pneumo]

FYI grey anti seize gets it's color from powdered aluminum. A quick search at MatWeb.com shows that copper has a melting point of 1083 degrees C. Typical aluminum has a melting point around 500 to 670 degrees C. Luckily there is some insulating distance between the turbo/manifold bolts and raw exhaust gas.