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Questions for Justin...

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Whats up Justin,

Looking for some info on a turbo I just came across and considering running. I found tdo5h 18g with a tdo6 compressor cover. Basically it reminds me of my old greddy 18g I had many years ago, minus the blue greddy badge. I am currently on an evo3 16g. I haven't really been able to find much on this 18g setup and was wondering if this is an efficient set up to see gains over my 16g. It will be no cost to run it and no extra work and every little bit counts. What do you think?

Thanks,
Jeremy
 
I'd keep the Evo III unless you're looking for something with a downfiring compressor cover for whatever reason. The Evo III's compressor is lighter and has a smaller hub area- so even though the 18G has a larger inducer, there is more surface area to the blade of an Evo III 16G.

If you do choose the 18G, you'll notice the turbo will be a little more laggy but airflow will be nearly identical.
 
You'll need a turbine housing that is cut for a T352 (Stage V) turbine wheel, but aside from that it's as simple as swapping the housings.

Wise move- the PTE DSM bolt-on housing for that turbo is well-known for melting turbine inducer tips due to excessive backpressure. With the T3 housing installed the car will feel like a completely different animal in the higher RPMs. :thumb:
 
If I get the housing from pte will it be something I have to request (as far as being cut for the T352 exhaust wheel) or will they what to send me if I tell them what turbo I have? My dillemma is I know where a GT35r for a pretty good price, but if get it I can't afford the manifold I want. So I'm not sure whether to get it and go with the cheaper mani or switch turbine housings on mine and get manifold I want(PR T3).
 
If you tell PTE what turbo you have they'll know what housing you need....I just meant if you're looking for a used housing you may have a difficult time.

Why pay to swap to a GT35R when it's essentially the exact same turbo? If you get a good turbine housing on your 6152 it should perform equally to the GT35R as the two turbos share the same compressor wheel and turbines that are a similar spec.
 
New issue, what do you think?

I think I'm in the wrong business because I can see days into the future:

....the PTE DSM bolt-on housing for that turbo is well-known for melting turbine inducer tips due to excessive backpressure.

It's pretty bad. I'd recommend replacing it- what you do is up to you.
 
Turbo question for selection on car I have a buschur stage 3 build with curt brown head, kelford cams, and all the bolt-ons. Shep stage 3 trans . Just wondering if the fp GT3586R is a good turbo for around 600Hp and get my car into the low 10's with good spool time around full boost at 4grand? just wondering, thanks
 
Is that turbo a good street turbo or is it more of a drag turbo, I just don't want to have all the engine and a turbo to small for the motor, if that makes any sence.
 
Is that turbo a good street turbo or is it more of a drag turbo, I just don't want to have all the engine and a turbo to small for the motor, if that makes any sence.
It's a race turbo. Anything making over 50-55 lb/min or so for our cars should really be considered a race-only turbo because of the power they generate.
What kinda 10's..Cause people have went tens on the little 68hta..Little as compared to a 35r..
That's the difference between running a 10 at 128mph (small turbo, hell of a driver) or running a 10 at 140mph (large turbo, slower & safer shifting).
 
I am breaking in a new motor ( forged pistons, rods) and I boned one turbo with contaiminents in the oil. I am feeding a Evo 16g from the oil filter housing with an aftermarket braided steel line.

Forced Performance is rebuilding the turbo. This time, I am using a Forced Performance line with one of their in line filters (.0125) ....is there anything else I can do to prevent this from happening again?

I will probably feed the next turbo from the head, but right now, I am committed ( money wise) to the set up I have now....

Thanks for your time,
Matt
 
And the 68hta probably isn't going to be NEARLY as badass as a 35r..
...but the 35R isn't going to hit NEARLY as hard as the 68HTA under 4k. All depends on whether you prefer power or torque, as well as how quick you can shift going down the track.
 
...But the 35R isn't going to hit NEARLY as hard as the 68HTA under 4k. All depends on whether you prefer power or torque, as well as how quick you can shift going down the track.

Very true good sir..Very true..
 
I am breaking in a new motor ( forged pistons, rods) and I boned one turbo with contaiminents in the oil. I am feeding a Evo 16g from the oil filter housing with an aftermarket braided steel line.

Forced Performance is rebuilding the turbo. This time, I am using a Forced Performance line with one of their in line filters (.0125) ....is there anything else I can do to prevent this from happening again?

I will probably feed the next turbo from the head, but right now, I am committed ( money wise) to the set up I have now....

Thanks for your time,
Matt
Hope and pray that something in your engine isn't going to continue to fill the turbo with metal or you'll be in deep shit no matter what turbo you're using. You may as well run a garbage eBay 16G until you can figure out what's causing the oil contamination as the inline filters are just a failsafe in the event of an engine problem and aren't really designed to keep the turbo clean at all times.
 
Hey man i was told to refer to you on this one... Im thinking about buying this evo 3 16g. Problem is im not sure if its legit.

Evo 3 16g - DSM Classifieds

The guy claimed the previous owner shaved the serial numbers off when he coated it. He did say he would be willing to take it apart and measure the wheel but i was wondering what is the size of a mhi evo 3 wheel? If this is in the wrong place or a stupid question i apologize, i was referred to you.
 
hey justin was just wondering i just picked up a s256 ett for a really good price and was wondering if it is possible to upgrade to the batmo wheel or not.
 
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